3rd gen 4runner frame rust

3rd gen 4runner frame rust DEFAULT

Old 09-23-2019, 04:01 PM

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3rd gen 4Runner Frame Rust Repair Kit


My prayer has been finally answered and we now have more serious repair options as Jeep owners do:

4-Runner 1996-2002 3rd Gen Archives - autorust.com

Kudos to AutoRust for finally bringing this to the market. I have no affiliations with them what so ever, except to bug them for many months to make this kits for the 3rd Gen 4Runners.

I have already ordered a pair of mid frame section sets. I had ordered a kit from eBay last year but I wanted to wait for a real kit, though the owner of Autorust stopped answering my emails a while ago. Naturally, I was super delighted when I saw that they finally brought this kit to the market last weekend.

Prices are a bit high but I reckon Autorust needs to recoup the development cost. I say we support them on this.

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Old 09-24-2019, 09:57 AM

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Can you tell us how you built your own? I thought of doing the same but I found it to be challenging. Did you end up using the factory LCA brackets?

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Old 09-24-2019, 10:51 AM
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This is pretty cool. I looked at the prices and honestly, they seem very reasonable to me.

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Old 09-24-2019, 11:38 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by suncougView Post

Can you tell us how you built your own? I thought of doing the same but I found it to be challenging. Did you end up using the factory LCA brackets?

Best to look at Brillos builds as I show photos of how I plate. The arches are the hardest. The front isn't as bad as the rears. That lower control arm bracket is a super pita. The two ways I found to do it without removing the LCA bracket is to slide the plates in from the bottom with the frame bottom removed about a ft in a half or so gone. You need a 1/2" smaller height plate then actual frame size or so to slide them in to place. The basically drill and fill with weld windows to secure the plate in place. If completely rotted out need a 2nd plate overtop on the outside.


The 2nd way if the frame is good enough, is to cut the inside rail out and place the plate first on the inside of the outside rail. Once that's in. Replate the bottom where the bracket is as those are mostly completely gone. Then weld a plate replacing the inside rail you cut out. Mostly put a second plate over that new inner and super Weld everything together. You dont want that LCA bracket coming off. If its super rusted. Just replace it. I have to replace the ones on tetanus 2 because they are about gone.

Nutrally the 3rd way is to remove the bracket fix the frame and put it back on
;)

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Old 09-24-2019, 12:27 PM
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This looks like a great option and I agree the prices seem like what I’d expect. Can we assume the metal is of equal or greater quality than oem?

Thanks for sharing this!

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Old 09-24-2019, 03:42 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76View Post

Best to look at Brillos builds as I show photos of how I plate. The arches are the hardest. The front isn't as bad as the rears. That lower control arm bracket is a super pita. The two ways I found to do it without removing the LCA bracket is to slide the plates in from the bottom with the frame bottom removed about a ft in a half or so gone. You need a 1/2" smaller height plate then actual frame size or so to slide them in to place. The basically drill and fill with weld windows to secure the plate in place. If completely rotted out need a 2nd plate overtop on the outside.


The 2nd way if the frame is good enough, is to cut the inside rail out and place the plate first on the inside of the outside rail. Once that's in. Replate the bottom where the bracket is as those are mostly completely gone. Then weld a plate replacing the inside rail you cut out. Mostly put a second plate over that new inner and super Weld everything together. You dont want that LCA bracket coming off. If its super rusted. Just replace it. I have to replace the ones on tetanus 2 because they are about gone.

Nutrally the 3rd way is to remove the bracket fix the frame and put it back on
;)

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I made a mistake of driving around with one of the upper control arms detached. Apparently, that put a lot of stress on the driver's side LCA bracket along the welding joints and it got separated neatly from the frame.

Thus, it was no longer an option for me to simply reinforce the LCA brackets. I actually bought two new LCA brackets and was going to fabricate a similar kit but utilizing the factory LCA brackets, but considering the curves involved and delicate weld joints, as well as alignment considerations, it was gonna be pretty challenging to do it right.

Hence, I am glad that Autorust finally made a good kit. It apparently gives you an option to keep or replace the rear cab mounts. My frame is in relatively good shape otherwise, so I will likely keep the existing cab mounts.

I also like the fact that the front part of the kit is fairly long.

I wish it was made from a thicker gauge panel, but it appears that these are well engineered kits, so I will test them out and report back.

Regarding the cost, considering the plight I was in, they are quite reasonable. However, mass produced kits for the Jeep are much cheaper. I wish there was more discount for buying both sides as a set.

Anyway, I am glad that Autorust came through. I think there will be lots of these 4runners with serious corrosion issues on the LCA joints, no matter how much Fluid Film get applied. Since I love my 5-speed 4Runner, slight pain of having to deal with this will be forgotten soon.
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:27 PM

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Checked them out earlier today. Awesome! I usually make my own patches with 1/8" angle and flat steel from the local hardware store, but I would definitely buy these. The price is reasonable and I've seen this stuff on Jeeps for a while.

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Old 09-24-2019, 08:14 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by suncougView Post

I made a mistake of driving around with one of the upper control arms detached. Apparently, that put a lot of stress on the driver's side LCA bracket along the welding joints and it got separated neatly from the frame.

Thus, it was no longer an option for me to simply reinforce the LCA brackets. I actually bought two new LCA brackets and was going to fabricate a similar kit but utilizing the factory LCA brackets, but considering the curves involved and delicate weld joints, as well as alignment considerations, it was gonna be pretty challenging to do it right.

Hence, I am glad that Autorust finally made a good kit. It apparently gives you an option to keep or replace the rear cab mounts. My frame is in relatively good shape otherwise, so I will likely keep the existing cab mounts.

I also like the fact that the front part of the kit is fairly long.

I wish it was made from a thicker gauge panel, but it appears that these are well engineered kits, so I will test them out and report back.

Regarding the cost, considering the plight I was in, they are quite reasonable. However, mass produced kits for the Jeep are much cheaper. I wish there was more discount for buying both sides as a set.

Anyway, I am glad that Autorust came through. I think there will be lots of these 4runners with serious corrosion issues on the LCA joints, no matter how much Fluid Film get applied. Since I love my 5-speed 4Runner, slight pain of having to deal with this will be forgotten soon.

Yes those are look like great kits. I agree with you guys that they are and its awesome to have them as an option.

You can't drive without the upper control arms missing. I did however, come up with a way to reattach those brackets as well.

Basically, you line the tube with a steel gas pipe and weld it in place. Then weld the upper brackets to it..

I used to that in the 1980s pickups as their shock pipe brackets would rust off.

Yes, once the LCA brackets come off. it does make a challenge to get them aligned back up..

Toyota does make a collision repair manual for the Gen 3 4 runners. This would give you the measurements needed to put those LCA back in the correct spot.

If you wish, you can send me PM of your photos and I can offer ideas on how to repair your bad spots in your frame. Or start a thread..:-D

I have to replace the LCA brackets in my Tetanus 2 as they are fairly rotted out when I redo its frame. I will be pulling those off and putting replacements on but that will probably be a few years away. As i need to finish the 2 in my garage first.. (1997 5 speed and 2001 sport in there now)

I just plate behind the cab mounts, then I have steel to weld too. The new cab mount welds right into the old place and its super solid.. I did that on that front arch in one my photos.

Its the holes in the frame that get us in the rust belt. That is why I weld them shut as I fix them. If the frame is sealed out its harder for it to rust from the inside out..

Look were the factory holes in the frame are in the wheel wells where you can see what happened. Its nearly impossible to keep the frame clean in the winter. The salt brine and calcium chloride they use on the roads in this state just rots rusty steel extremly quickly. :{

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Old 09-28-2019, 05:10 AM

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Thanks for bringing this to my attention.

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Old 09-28-2019, 03:11 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by brillo_76View Post

Yes those are look like great kits. I agree with you guys that they are and its awesome to have them as an option.

You can't drive without the upper control arms missing. I did however, come up with a way to reattach those brackets as well.

Basically, you line the tube with a steel gas pipe and weld it in place. Then weld the upper brackets to it..

I used to that in the 1980s pickups as their shock pipe brackets would rust off.

Yes, once the LCA brackets come off. it does make a challenge to get them aligned back up..

Toyota does make a collision repair manual for the Gen 3 4 runners. This would give you the measurements needed to put those LCA back in the correct spot.

If you wish, you can send me PM of your photos and I can offer ideas on how to repair your bad spots in your frame. Or start a thread..:-D

I have to replace the LCA brackets in my Tetanus 2 as they are fairly rotted out when I redo its frame. I will be pulling those off and putting replacements on but that will probably be a few years away. As i need to finish the 2 in my garage first.. (1997 5 speed and 2001 sport in there now)

I just plate behind the cab mounts, then I have steel to weld too. The new cab mount welds right into the old place and its super solid.. I did that on that front arch in one my photos.

Its the holes in the frame that get us in the rust belt. That is why I weld them shut as I fix them. If the frame is sealed out its harder for it to rust from the inside out..

Look were the factory holes in the frame are in the wheel wells where you can see what happened. Its nearly impossible to keep the frame clean in the winter. The salt brine and calcium chloride they use on the roads in this state just rots rusty steel extremly quickly. :{

I thought the factory holes were necessary. This seems contrary to the general sentiment on this topic.

Regarding the cross member, I actually got a a heavy duty tube with the right outer diameter. I plan on welding it inside the existing cross member. I think I saw the trick on youtube somewhere. The tube cost me almost $100. I have heard about using a exhaust pipe but I didn't want to have it fail again.

It's good to know about the factory collision repair manual. BTW, I just received the Autorust kits and I don't know how I could have made it myself. It is very long and well made. I will start the prep work and get things ready.
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Old 09-28-2019, 07:24 PM

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Originally Posted by suncougView Post

I thought the factory holes were necessary. This seems contrary to the general sentiment on this topic.

Regarding the cross member, I actually got a a heavy duty tube with the right outer diameter. I plan on welding it inside the existing cross member. I think I saw the trick on youtube somewhere. The tube cost me almost $100. I have heard about using a exhaust pipe but I didn't want to have it fail again.

It's good to know about the factory collision repair manual. BTW, I just received the Autorust kits and I don't know how I could have made it myself. It is very long and well made. I will start the prep work and get things ready.

Frame holes as far as I know are not needed. Mostly they are there for machines to hold the pieces together when they are welded together in the frame factory. I been welding them shut since the late 1990s. As in the rust belt. They let all the salt water and dirt into the frames. { That is entirely up to you if you leave them open or close them off its just what I do }

I use black steel gas pipe with 43 inches long with 1.5 inner diameter which is really close to in Outer diameter. The sidewalls of this pipe is nice and think close to (1/4in ) {I think its $25 or $30 bucks} I paint the pipe with gloss black rust-oleum. Then I coat the inside of that new pipe with fluid film. I either plate the pipe hole shut or use a rubber body plug to seal that tube up in the wheel wells in each side.

Those give you something to weld the upper control arms brackets back to and your coil shock plates.

If that original pipe is rusting through, really check out those brackets and your coil plates. I have had one of those coil shock plates come loose by rotting off the frame once.. Those are not easy to reattach at all. As their location makes it extremely difficult.

Don't forget to send us photos. I enjoy seeing folks frame repairs.

I see those kits go over the original frame. Do they have any instructions with them?

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Old 09-30-2019, 05:41 PM

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The kit does come with a two-page general instruction sheet. It does not go over the specifics of a particular application. It mainly covers safety aspects of the installation. Basically, you cut off the rusted parts, slip the kit over, and then weld it all around.The company is known for good support, so I plan on calling them to ask about specific things related to this application.

The instruction also doesn't say anything about treating the inside part of the bracket with some kind of rust inhibitor, etc. More importantly, I am a little concerned how I (or anyone) can weld the top part of the frame rail without lifting the body, as the kit is quite tall.

Speaking of which, while my 4Runner frame is in relatively good shape overall. The round crossmember and the shock/coil mount plates are not in so good shape. I am not worried about the coil part of the plate but the spots where the shocks mount are not in good shape.

Ideally, it would be great to able to lift the body at least a couple of feet and properly address all these issues. I am also looking at outboarding the shocks for now. It looks like the outboard frame mounts for newer 4Runners and Tacoma's might work, but I have not been able to locate the part numbers for them. I would appreciate any help on this. If I don't have to worry about replacing the shock/spring plates, then it would so much easier to finish the job.

Regarding the frame holes, it sounds like makes sense to block them off, though I would be afraid of moisture being trapped inside. I guess I could always apply lots of Fluid Firm first.

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Old 09-30-2019, 08:54 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by suncougView Post

The kit does come with a two-page general instruction sheet. It does not go over the specifics of a particular application. It mainly covers safety aspects of the installation. Basically, you cut off the rusted parts, slip the kit over, and then weld it all around.The company is known for good support, so I plan on calling them to ask about specific things related to this application.



All valid questions.

First, I don't fix frames unless they are in need of it as you can see can be very time consuming projects.

Quote:


The instruction also doesn't say anything about treating the inside part of the bracket with some kind of rust inhibitor, etc. More importantly, I am a little concerned how I (or anyone) can weld the top part of the frame rail without lifting the body, as the kit is quite tall.

Yes its always best to cut the cancer out and do some kind of treatment to the steel. Rust inhibitor with paint, Fliud Film, WD-40, Something. its also best to clean all the oxide and dirt out of the area of the frame you are fixing.

So the steel goes all the way to the top of the outside rail.. That corner on top is very hard to weld like you said without lifting the body. I mostly pull everything out of my way. For example: the passenger rail. I pull the exhaust rear heater lines off running boards to get room to work on the rail itself.

Drivers rail..I pull the tank out and running board. You can mostly work around the brake lines. Especially if you plate the inside of the frame instead of the outside.

Quote:

Speaking of which, while my 4Runner frame is in relatively good shape overall. The round crossmember and the shock/coil mount plates are not in so good shape. I am not worried about the coil part of the plate but the spots where the shocks mount are not in good shape.
The round cross member can be fixed with a 1 1/2 black gas pipe 43'' inches long. You slide that steel pipe in your existing one and weld it on both sides. This gives you the ability to attach your Upper control arm brackets and the coil shock plate to the new pipe by burning into it with weld.

Quote:

Ideally, it would be great to able to lift the body at least a couple of feet and properly address all these issues. I am also looking at outboarding the shocks for now. It looks like the outboard frame mounts for newer 4Runners and Tacoma's might work, but I have not been able to locate the part numbers for them. I would appreciate any help on this. If I don't have to worry about replacing the shock/spring plates, then it would so much easier to finish the job.

Those Coil Shock plates are a real pain to fix. They can come off a frame and because of location and where they are at nightmare to reattach.

I am not sure about the moving your shocks attachment to the outside of your frame. You may not have the clearances to do so. The newer gens frames are totally different then the 3rd gens frame. The first Gen Tocuma frame almost matches. However, I believe the shock connection might be a different location then the 3rd gen 4 runners. :-(

Quote:

Regarding the frame holes, it sounds like makes sense to block them off, though I would be afraid of moisture being trapped inside. I guess I could always apply lots of Fluid Firm first.
Very little moisture can get into the frame if it has no way in. I clean the frame out completely then as I fix areas. I seal the frame holes out. In your non fixed areas you can seal the holes out with silcone and that aluminum tape {If it will stick to your Frame}

Be very heavy on the inside of the frame with Fluid. But always clean all the oxide and dirt out first before sealing. This will help slow the oxidation down big time.


Hope this helps. :-)

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Old 10-01-2019, 04:18 PM

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Many thanks for your advice on this. I have actually bought an another vehicle, so I don't feel the time pressure. Still, I do want to get it back on the road before the winter.

So, for now, I plan on installing the LCA/Frame kits from Autorust. Slipping in the heavy duty pipe inside the crossmember and welding the mounts on. I will also figure out outboarding the shocks. I already bought a set is made for Ford trucks that helps with this. I will need a longer pair of shocks and spacer, but I really don't want to tackle replacing the shock/coil plates now, though I have the parts.

BTW, are you sure the length of the pipe needs to be 43". I bought a 48" pipe and it appeared to be the perfect length.

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UltimateYota.com Forums > Toyota Truck and SUV Tech > 95.5-04 Tacomas and 96-02 4Runners > 3rd Gen 4Runner Frame Rust Issues...


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YotaFun

05-02-2011, 06:37 PM

Who has this issue?

I have been reading about 3rd Gen 4Runners having similar issues to the Tacoma.
I know a buddy at a dealer north of me that has come across quite a few and has open a case with Toyota Corporate about it.

Last time I check my frame, it was pretty good except for the surface rust from scrapping it on rocks, and stepdad's only issues is the pumpkin on his rear axle.

But I am curious for anyone in the area that experience rust the worse have noticed there frame starting to rot away?


4x4mike

05-02-2011, 08:42 PM

I hate rust so I keep an eye on all the truck. I'd be lying if I said I didn't have a wire brush with my under the 4Runner when I was changing the A/F sensor. I clean things up and bomb it with spray at least once a year. I don't use anything special, just flat black but it keeps things looking good.


MTL_4runner

05-03-2011, 04:49 AM

Yeah, my frame is starting to get some good rust on it now, not rotted yet but on the way. They just use crazy amounts of salt and sand up here so not much stands a chance of coming out unscathed.


paddlenbike

05-03-2011, 01:02 PM

The paint on mine has held up pretty well. I repaint the skidplates on occasion from damage I have done, but otherwise the three common rust areas on mine include the bracket above the spare tire (the tire rubs the paint off and light rust forms there), the hangers for the lower rear suspension arms get sandblasted in the desert and the inside of the front and rear bumpers get surface rust. Other than that, everything looks good.


Swede

06-08-2011, 07:18 AM

My rear body mounts on the frame were starting to rust as well as the whole rear axle housing was developing surface rust but I just hit it with a wire brush and spray the heck out of it with Rust Converter and I'm good to go. The spray changes the rust colour to black so that's good too.


My T100 had surface rust on it and I cleaned it up with a wire wheel and brush. Then I washed it with a pressure washer and used a leafblower to dry it and sprayed it with rustoleum rust converting paint and then some satin black. very little came back if any and that was like 2 years ago-maybe 3.


fenrisx

06-08-2011, 07:57 AM

I've got what I would consider some good rust goin' too. I'm so used to not seeing rust (being from down south originally).. so I could be over exaggerating.

I know there was a guy on T4R forums (I think) who had a large area of his frame by the exhaust rust through.


Obi..

06-08-2011, 03:00 PM

You're all going to hate the following encyclopedic reply..

You guys should look into having your frames sprayed with paraffin once you touch them up. I'm going on 4 years w/ Wimpy and now that the spray wax the previous owner had done has worn off it's starting to pickup some surface rust as well..that said, it's a California car, so instead of rust we deal w/ CARB. Most Lexus, Mecedes, Audi, etc dealerships either have the hot sprayer themselves or can turn you towards a detail/body shop that does have it.

If you want to do this yourself, grab some boeshield! http://boeshield.com/ What I'll usually do (which as it stands I have to do sometime in the next few weeks) is when I do my oil change since I've had the engine warmed up and drained and changed the oil and finished that up is to wait for the oil to cool down a little and use it as a pre-clean wipe down on my frame's outer. It works great for knocking down the rest of the dirt, etc/stuff I can't simply brush or wipe down and it penetrates into creases, etc. Then I grab a different rag and spray the Boeshield on it and use that to wipe down the frame and remove any remaining oil residue, then I simply spray my frame down, let it set up for a day or so and be done w/ it. Be advised though, it does drip and creates spots, so we always lay down some cardboard underneath to catch it all. Stay away from hot surfaces and realize some spray will hit the pipes and smoke a little bit when you first drive your vehicle again.

As far as shops, if you get turned down there, try a farm equipment repair or supply place, it's worth the investment IMHO. Just remember you want wax based not asphalt based. Wax repels and weeps moisture out, asphalt traps it.

The industry terms are Gulf Wax, Noxudol, etc. it's shown in use during the first and last parts of this video. (Not the underspray, but the aerosol spray.)
Noxudol - Undercoating Process (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ADoY0d2fnM#)


YotaFun

06-08-2011, 08:43 PM

I am noticing my frame rust most right where the body mount under the rear passenger door is, right about where the mount for the rear lower trailing arm is.
There is about an inch of space between the two welds which are starting to rust pretty well...


I have used before on tow trucks and such a product called fluid film. Its like a sticky/tacky oil and comes in a spray bottle and you go to town, it doesnt come off all to easy either.


foggysps

10-08-2011, 02:15 PM

File a complaint here @ NHTSA and get a campaign started.
Apparently Toyota is not going to step up and fix the issues unless they have enough complaints and the government feels that there are enough incidents to pose as a safety concern.

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

Look on the Left hand column and click "File a Complaint"

My best recommendation to determine if your frame is actually rusting from the inside out is to probe inside the access holes (both sides) that are found along the frame rail and/or run a compressed air line inside to see if any big chunks of rust come flying out.
My frame looked totally fine until I further examined it. Major scaling on the inside. Outside looks perfect. Well, it seems that the inside rotted so bad that my inner frame rail on the passenger side near the rear track arm had almost rotted through. It is soft like a sponge, but yet the factory Toyota frame paint held it together. Poking it with my finger and it all crumbled


YotaFun

09-13-2012, 09:54 AM

Well, I am bumping this thread.
A friend of mine has my truck and has been looking it over and fixing a few issues here and there.

He was checking out my frame and ended up pooping a whole right through the bottom of the frame.

7 years, and 124k miles of me owning it and it is starting to look like time fore me to find another 4Runner...

I will have pictures up later this evening but I am almost to the point of loosing it...


YotaFun

09-13-2012, 04:35 PM

So here are the pictures,
Passenger side, rear door area.
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2098.jpg
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2100.jpg

Its hard to make out here but as you travel further up the frame rail it gets soft towards the front
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2101.jpg
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2102.jpg

The rear cargo area of the frame is the worse, the round cross member that is over the gas tank is pretty much done and the rest is on its way
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2096.jpg
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2095.jpg
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2097.jpg

Also found that I must have hit the driver side lower rear control arm mount pretty good, its starting to rust and buckle
http://i829.photobucket.com/albums/zz219/Yota-Boy/Rusted/DSCN2103.jpg

I know you may think not so bad at first can be patch, but when I was beating the frame with a hammer looking for soft spots I was getting showered with rust chips out of the factory holes in the frame.
While yes I can patch the one spot, its already spread it will only last till the next whole then the next then the next, till I have a Swiss cheese frame...

The plan for now, just drive it but the mods are done, 5spd swap is not gonna happen, 4.88s, and what ever other small projects I had...

I am thinking of trying to find a rolling chassis with a blow motor or trans or what not for cheap and transferring all my stuff (minus sliders) over and unfortunately start over again...

Truck is currently 250 miles shy of 200K, its going to make it there and then sit till I can find something else hopefully before winter...


Aw that sucks Avy! I say find yourself a clean frame and start from there. Make sure you use some sorta rust proofing paint on it too, eastwoods por15, etc.


4x4mike

09-13-2012, 09:36 PM

Crap, that sucks. I hate rust because of all the damage it can do.


04 Rocko Taco

09-14-2012, 01:55 AM

Frame swap FTW!

Lemme know if you need any parts from here in the southeast, I'll get them to you!


paddlenbike

09-14-2012, 09:14 AM

Wire brush it and paint it before it gets worse. I don't think it's bad enough to swap.


YotaFun

09-14-2012, 01:21 PM

Mark, Yeah dude I was devastated, trying to get my own place soon and was relying on the 4Runner to be okay since I was going to sell my DD to help fund the down-payment on a place.

Mike, its living in the rust belt, it took me twice as long to do a clutch in a Scion TC because of the rust on it, its just a killer.

Chris, thats sort of the plan, I'll explain in a Sec.

Paddlenbike (Kevin?), I can do that for the back half of the frame, but the mid section is already on its way out, I smack it with a hammer and get showered in rust chips, its rusting from the inside out, its def getting soft, If I can put a decent dent in the frame rail with my smaller hammer its def done.

My current plan for now is to stop all mods, I was going to do 4.88, 5spd swap, and cases, but I am going to put that on hold to start looking for another truck.

I will plate my frame for now to just hold me off till I find another Decent 4Runner
Thinking something like this:
||_||
-----
Just a simple C channel around the bottom with it going about 1/4 up the side of the frame rail
Paint it, place some drain holes along the way and go from there.

Shooting for a 98-00 now.

It doesn't need to be running it just needs to have a straight clean frame and body.

My plans are to strip everything off of it and keep it down to just a rolling chassis.

I will slowly work on cleaning up the frame and coating it to protect it, as well as go through the interior with some sound deadening spray as well as underneath the body itself and get it protected and coated, then hopefully by spring I can swap my drive train over to the roller and start a new build.


Avy, that absolutely sucks! I hate to say it but it looks as your between a rock and a hard place now. finding a roller is all you can really do unless you want to repair more than half the frame.

Yea Id say C channel it would be best for now. Id weld/bolt it all up on there.
Then get some fluid film or heavy gear oil or something and spray it inside the frame till it drips out and spray it every 2-3 months or something.

My frame has surface rust but not like that. However my rear bumper is starting to rust thru :(


Obi..

09-14-2012, 08:20 PM

~Have your dealership's Used Acquisition Manager hit up the auctions or watch Car-Part.com and find a trade-in to buy @ expense or a wrecked one w/ the frame still straight. I can definitely also suggest calling some yards in Arizona or out this way to see if they have a frame you can pick up.

;) Then just shoot Dan the money to rent a trailer and pull it the rest of the way around the country to you? :D


04 Rocko Taco

09-17-2012, 05:09 PM

I had that '97 with a straight frame and pretty straight body, would've been a nice wheeler... It sold long ago though.

I'll keep my eye out for a nice frame.


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Sours: http://www.ultimateyota.com/archive/index.php/t-9644.html
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Is There a Toyota 4Runner Rusted Frame Recall?

Gray truck against blue skyAccording to a recent report from Reuters, Toyota recently reached a $3.4 billion settlement to resolve allegations of defective rusting undercarriage of various pickups.

The Toyota rusted frame settlement will resolve a class action lawsuit involving numerous Toyota truck owners, each of whom alleges the undercarriage of their trucks severely rusted.

The settlement terms pertain to 1.5 million 2005-2010 Toyota Tacomas, 2005-2008 Sequoias, and 2007-2008 Tundras, but rusted undercarriages have also been reportedly plaguing Toyota 4Runner owners. Here are some frequently asked questions that Toyota 4Runner owners may have:

Has there been a Toyota 4Runner rusted frame recall?

At this point in time, there has been no Toyota 4runner rusted frame recall but owners of vehicle models 2005 to present should be vigilant for any signs of undercarriage rust. If left untreated, the rust could eventually break off and make the vehicle too dangerous to drive.

Has the Toyota 4Runner rusting problem been noticed by authorities?

Toyota 4Runner frame rust problems have been brought to the attention of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), after receiving a report stating that a 4Runner owner complained the steering and suspension system had separated due to the severe rusting on the frame.

According to CarComplaints, the NHTSA states that it will either grant or deny the petition to investigate after it reviewing over 520,000 model year 2002-2006 Toyota 4Runners.

Has there been any legal action regarding the Toyota 4Runner rusted frame issue?

While there has been no Toyota 4Runner rusted frame recall, there has been a class action lawsuit filed describing this problem. Plaintiff Gary W. alleges his Toyota 4Runner experiences severe rusting due to being made with defective rust protection, which reportedly made his vehicle “unsafe to drive and a hazard on the roadways.”

The lawsuit points out that the rusting problem affects 2005-2011 Toyota 4Runners, 2005-2010 Toyota Tacomas, 2007-2008 Toyota Tundras and 2005-2008 Toyota Sequoias.

The 4Runner Toyota rust defect class action lawsuit ultimately argues the car company knew that these vehicles were vulnerable to rusting, but allegedly failed to warn consumers.

Furthermore, the claim points out that Toyota had set up a compensation program to help owners deal with truck rust problems on other trucks, but this did not include the 4Runner.

What were the terms of the class action settlement?

Along with the $3.4 billion settlement, the terms state that Toyota will pay for all vehicle inspections and replacing frames on affected trucks. Toyota will reach out to owners by mail, will send notices to publications, and through various sources of media.

Has Toyota had previous problems with undercarriage rusting in other cars?

It is important to note that this is not the first time Toyota has encountered problems with rust in its pickup trucks with their 1995-2000 Toyota Tacomas.

Toyota also had to issue a recall for 2001-2003 Tundras for frame rust, with the recall resulting in a $25 million payout to Toyota from Dana, the company that supplied the allegedly defective frames.

One of the most recent recalls that Toyota issued was several years ago, which recalled their 2005-2011 Tacomas that had allegedly defective leaf springs that could rust or break.

The Toyota 4-Runner Frame Rust Defect Class Action Lawsuit is Case No. 2:18-cv-03294-RMG, in the U.S. District Court for the District of South Carolina, Charleston Division.

Sours: https://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/auto-news/is-there-a-toyota-4runner-rusted-frame-recall/
3rd Gen Toyota 4Runner Frame Rust Removal
Garage Topics - For the love of the garage
4runner frame rust fix

We remove the surface rust on the frame of a 3rd gen Toyota 4runner (1998). In my case, the frame was solid but had started to surface rust bad on the frame. If we did not address this issue, the rust would have weakened the frame, making the 4Runner unsafe. Preventative maintenance goes a long way in keeping your Toyota 4Runner on the road for many years to come.

Michael Seymour
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Sours: http://www.garagetopics.com/3rd-gen-4runner/frame-rust-removal/

Rust frame 3rd 4runner gen

Looking at 3rd gen 4runners

Meh, Jeeps are overrated. :ylsmoke:

I'm sure it's what you meant, but body rust is usually of little concern, I think you mean frame rust. The body can look immaculate and the frame be rotting out from under them, always go under the truck and look you can't tell by looking at the outside.

Lower ball joints are something to replace soon as practical, not really something you can easily check when casually looking for one. Just plan on doing it as part of preventative maintenance, when the lower ball joint goes the wheel falls off, so better to replace them (with OEM) before they go bad. I need to do mine soon.

I let the general reputation of them get to me and ended up buying one, and haven't been disappointed. So far it's been a solid truck (knock on wood). I bought one with 240k on it, minimal maintenance from the PO other than oil changes and fixing what needed fixing. I fixed some minor stuff it needed to be road worthy after a period of some neglect, and I fully admit I'm procrastinating on doing many more things I know it needs as far as maintenance, but so far it's run like a top and I'm racking up the miles on it like crazy as my general run around vehicle.

Good luck on your search.

 

Sours: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/looking-at-3rd-gen-4runners.175836/
SafeTCap® Install on 4-Runner

Each trip on the tram brought Galya several orgasms, the sensations from riding in a trolleybus or a bus were slightly less. Vivid, but without at least one orgasm, Galya did not leave them. Soon, all the lips, large and small, were also pierced and pulled strongly under the weight of the weighty rings.

Similar news:

It became hard for me to breathe, but I immediately felt how my body responded to this. A wave of excitement swept over me, making me let out a muffled groan. Put your hand on my cock, he growled and put my hand on his jeans.



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