Ender 3 bowden tube replacement

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When 3D printing, it is likely to at some point end up with stuck filament in a PTFE tube. Whether it is broken filament in a Bowden tube or a clogged piece of filament stuck in the PTFE tube of the hotend, it must be dealt with before you can continue printing.

Luckily, solving this problem is not very hard. Manually cleaning out the tubing is usually enough to make the 3D printer operational again. But it is important to know the best way of doing this.

In this article I will show you how to remove stuck filament from PTFE tubing, explain the cause of the problem and what you can do to prevent it from happening again.

What causes filament to get stuck in the PTFE tube?

The main cause of filament breaking and getting stuck in Bowden tubes is brittle filament. Some filaments, like PLA, tend to become brittle after they absorb too much moisture from the surrounding air.

Leaving filament out for a long time without using it gives it ample opportunity to absorb moisture. The next time you print with it, it might be brittle and can easily break. This is why it is important to store your filament properly and keep it dry.

As for filament getting stuck in the short PTFE tube of a hotend, that can also have other causes, such as heat creep or a gap between the tube and the metal parts of the hotend.

I might write a more detailed article on clogged hotends, but for now I will just focus on how you can get the stuck filament out of the PTFE tube.

What can you do to prevent it?

There are a couple of things you can do to prevent filament from breaking and getting stuck:

  • The most important thing is to make sure that your filament stays dry and does not absorb a lot of moisture from the air. So, when you won’t be using it for a while, store it in a box or in sealed bags with indicating silica gel beads. This is especially important for PLA and nylon filaments which absorb a lot of moisture.
  • Use high quality filament. Low quality filament is more likely to have an inconsistent filament diameter. If a section of filament is too wide for the tube, it has the potential to get stuck.
  • Another thing you can do is limit the friction and tension on the filament. The easier the filament can get from the spool to the hotend, the less likely it is to break anywhere along its journey. You can do this by:
    • Using a high quality PTFE tube. Capricorn Bowden tubing is an excellent choice, mainly due to its tight tolerances and high temperature resistance.
    • Optimizing the path of the tube. Bends with a small/tight radius create a lot more friction than bends with a large/wide radius. So wherever possible, make sure that the path of the tube is not too constrained.
    • Making sure that the internal diameter of the PTFE tube is the right size for the filament that you are using. If it is too narrow, the filament can’t get through at all. If it is too wide, the filament can ‘buckle’ and create extra binding and friction.
    • Making sure that the filament spool is able to roll freely.

How to remove stuck filament from a PTFE tube

What you’ll need

If you have snapped off filament stuck in a Bowden tube or other piece of long PTFE tube, the easiest way to fix it is to remove the tube and clear it out:

Detaching the PTFE tube

If necessary, open up the extruder carriage to get access to the coupling that holds the PTFE tube. The steps for this will vary depending on the specific 3D printer you have. If you don’t know how to do this, checking the manual/documentation for the printer will help.

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If you are not using these, you should! They prevent the PTFE tubing from moving back and forth when extruding and retracting. This gives more precise extrusion and also prevents clogs. You can easily 3D print these clips yourself. Here are some 3D modelsthat you can use.

If necessary, repeat the above steps for the other side of the tube.

Clearing the stuck filament out

Reassembly

  • Insert the Bowden tube back in the hotend.
  • Clip the collet clip back on. Make sure to push the PTFE tube all the way down first. Then pull up the coupling ring and add the collet clip.
  • Reattach any components that you had to remove.
  • Repeat the previous steps to reattach the other end of the tube.

One of the most common causes of filament getting stuck in a hotend is a PTFE tube that does not reach all the way to the heatbreak or nozzle. This creates a gap that filament can melt and expand into. When this happens, the molten filament can cool down into a blob that prevents the filament from moving further.

One way of preventing this is to use collet clips mentioned above. These prevent the PTFE tube from sliding up when retracting and prevent the gap from forming.

Filament that is stuck in the PTFE tube inside of a hotend can be harder to remove. Fixing this (without damage) often involves opening the hotend up to remove the clog. It is sometimes possible to pull the PTFE tube out through the top, but this can lead to damaging the tube because it takes a lot of force.

The exact procedure for this depends on the exact hotend that you are using, but it will be roughly like this:

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Be careful when unscrewing the heatbreak! The thin, non-threaded part is fragile and is easily bent.
  • Remove the filament from the PTFE tube. Typically it can be simply pushed out with something like an allen key. If it is really stuck, see the method below.
  • Reassemble the hotend. Make sure that the tube is flush against the heatbreak (or nozzle, depending on the hotend design) so that no melted filament can escape to unwanted places.

If the PTFE tube is damaged in any way, it is best to replace it. A damaged tube is likely to cause issues in the future.

What if you can’t push the filament out?

Sometimes, the filament can get really stuck in the PTFE tube and can not be removed by hand. In that case, boiling the tube in water can help. This softens the filament inside and afterwards you can push it out. The PTFE does not get harmed by the boiling water, as it is resistant to much higher temperatures.

This method is safer than using a heat gun or any open flame to soften the filament.

Conclusion

Stuck filament in a PTFE Bowden tube or hotend is inconvenient, but not the end of the world. With a bit of careful disassembly and cleaning, you can have your extruder back up and running in no-time.

You learned:

  • Why filament gets brittle and breaks.
  • How to prevent filament from getting stuck in PTFE tubing.
  • How to fix stuck filament in your Bowden tube or hotend.
Sours: https://clevercreations.org/how-to-remove-stuck-filament-ptfe-bowden-tube/

The Best Ender 3 Bowden Tube of 2020 – Reviewed and Top Rated

2,247 Reviews Scanned

SaleRank No. #1
Creality Upgrade 3D Printer Kit with Capricorn Premium XS Bowden Tubing 1M, PTFE Teflon Tube Cutter, Pneumatic Fittings and MK8 Socks and Extra Nozzles for Ender 3/3 Pro/5 CR-10 Series/10S/20/20 Pro
Creality Upgrade 3D Printer Kit with Capricorn Premium XS Bowden Tubing 1M, PTFE Teflon Tube Cutter, Pneumatic Fittings and MK8 Socks and Extra Nozzles for Ender 3/3 Pro/5 CR-10 Series/10S/20/20 Pro
  • 1*1 Meter Original Capricorn XS Serious Bowden PTFE tubing with lowest friction on the market. Less friction means more responsiveness, less retraction, more accurate prints, less slippage, wear, and tear on the extruder, and less clogging when printing chunky filaments such as some woodfills or ironfills.
  • 1* PTFE cutter with an extra sharp razor is also included to ensure that the PTFE is cut flat on both sides to prevent any malfunctions or heat creep when feeding and retracting.
  • 2 * PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fitting to secure PTFE in extruder and hotend.
  • 2 * MK8 hotend socks are also provided to help keep temperatures on the hotend much more stable and this will result in higher print quality and more consistency.
  • 2*0.4mm nozzles of non-stick silicone material Help to keep the hotend temperature extremely stable.
SaleRank No. #2
Creality Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing 1M XS Series 1.75MM Filament with 2X PC4-M6 & 2X PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fittings & Tube Cutter for Ender 3 V2/ Ender 3/ Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5/ CR-10/10S 3D Printer
Creality Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing 1M XS Series 1.75MM Filament with 2X PC4-M6 & 2X PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fittings & Tube Cutter for Ender 3 V2/ Ender 3/ Ender 3 Pro/Ender 5/ CR-10/10S 3D Printer
  • 100% Original Capricorn XS Series tubing.
  • Capricorn PTFE is well regarded as the highest quality PTFE tubing in all of 3D printing. The tight tolerances make sure that the filament is lead directly to the hotend with as little room for error as possible between the extruder and the hotend. Capricorn PTFE XS Series is rated for withstanding the highest temperatures in the market which is perfect for printing exotic filaments such as ABS, Nylon, and Polycarbonate.
  • PC4-M6 Couplers: thread M6/3mm, inner diameter 4mm, fit for the tube whose outer diameter is 4mm, made of premium copper and plastic, sturdy and durable. PC4-M10 Couplers: thread M10/6mm, inner diameter 4mm, fit for the tube whose outer diameter is 4mm, made of high qulity stainless steel and plastic, high hardness, antioxidtion, anti corrosion. The extruder fittings are PC4-M6 and the hotend fittings are PC4-M10.
  • One PTFE cutter with an extra sharp razor is also included to ensure that the PTFE is cut flat on both sides to prevent any malfunctions or heat creep when feeding and retracting.
  • Any questions please feel free to contact us at any time. We will reply to you within 24 hours and provide technical support for you.
SaleRank No. #3
Genuine Capricorn Premium Bowden Tubing XS Series Bowden Tubing for 1.75mm Filament with Upgraded PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fittings for Creality Ender 3/Pro Ender 5 CR-10/10S 3D Printer 1 Meter
Genuine Capricorn Premium Bowden Tubing XS Series Bowden Tubing for 1.75mm Filament with Upgraded PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fittings for Creality Ender 3/Pro Ender 5 CR-10/10S 3D Printer 1 Meter
  • 【Creality Capricorn Tube】----100% Original Capricorn XS Series tubing.Genuine Capricorn Premium XS bowden Tubing is enhanced with a proprietary blend of high performance additives.
  • 【Lower Friction】----High lubricity additives make XS Series tubing the lowest friction bowden tubing on the market. It developed specifically for 1.75mm filament with an extremely precise internal diameter.The inside diameter of bowden liner is one of the critical feature for the successful print.
  • 【High Temperature Resistant】----High Temperature Resistance due to using only the highest quality PTFE. Our XS tubing will operate at even higher temperatures than our TL.The maximum operating temperature up to 280℃!
  • 【Upgrade Your 3D Printer】----Capricorn Premium XS bowden Tubing is officially authorized and guaranteed quality.Using Original Capricorn XS Series tubing make less friction and more responsiveness,means you can save more time.It's really a great way to upgrade your 3D printer with a reasonable prices!
  • 【Brass Pneumatic Connector】----The PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 pneumatic connector is made of brasss, with small metal teeth,which can tightly coupled.Therefore, it's never leakaged filament during printing.
SaleRank No. #6
Upgraded Creality Hand Twist Leveling Nuts, 1M Capricorn XS Bowden Tubing, Cutter, Hot Bed Die Springs and M4X35 Screws for Ender 3/3 Pro/3 V2/5/5 Plus/5 Pro, CR-10, CR10S/10S Pro, CR 20 3D Printer
Upgraded Creality Hand Twist Leveling Nuts, 1M Capricorn XS Bowden Tubing, Cutter, Hot Bed Die Springs and M4X35 Screws for Ender 3/3 Pro/3 V2/5/5 Plus/5 Pro, CR-10, CR10S/10S Pro, CR 20 3D Printer
  • 4*Upgraded Aluminum Hand Twist Level Nut. These red aluminum nuts are original upgraded replacement part for Ender 3/3 Pro/3 V2, Ender 5/5 Plus/ 5 Pro, CR-10, CR-10 V2, CR-10 Max, CR 10, CR-10 Mini, CR-10S, CR 10S Pro,CR-10 Plus, CR-X, CR 20.
  • 1*1 Meter Original Capricorn XS Serious Bowden PTFE tubing with lowest friction on the market. Less friction means more responsiveness, less retraction, more accurate prints, less slippage, wear, and tear on the extruder, and less clogging when printing chunky filaments such as some woodfills or ironfills.
  • 4* Hot bed Die Spring. NOTE: The springs are around 25mm long, which is longer than ender 3, ender 3 pro and ender 3 v2 printer springs. If you really like this product, you can use a tool to cut it to be shorter or adjust the hot bed to be higher to fit the springs.
  • 4* M4X35 screws for hot bed. NOTE: the length of screws is 35mm, if your printer hot bed screws are 40mm, please adjust the hot bed lower and leveling again to print.
  • 1* Bowden tubing cutter.
SaleRank No. #7
Creality 3D Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing 1 Meter Tube Cutter XS Series with 5 pcs Nozzles for 1.75mm Filament Ender 3 Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5, CR-10,CR-10S 3D Printer
Creality 3D Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing 1 Meter Tube Cutter XS Series with 5 pcs Nozzles for 1.75mm Filament Ender 3 Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5, CR-10,CR-10S 3D Printer
  • Capricorn PTFE is well regarded as the highest quality PTFE tubing in all of 3D printing. The tight tolerances make sure that the filament is lead directly to the hotend with as little room for error as possible between the extruder and the hotend.
  • Capricorn PTFE tubing ensures the highest quality prints at any given temperature. This XS series tubing is rated for high temperature printing, and also boasts greater lubricity leading to less friction, less slippage, and less wear. Great for flexible filaments! Also guaranteed with to have an inner diameter accurate to within 0.05mm, enabling fine tune retraction settings with more precision than ever before!
  • The perfect replacement kit if the your stock hotend has failed or constantly jams.Capricorn tubing provides enhanced precision for retraction settings, meaning less stringing on prints once calibrated.
  • Comes with 1 Meter Tubing, five Brass nozzles and one cutter
  • 1 Meter in length PTFE tubing
Rank No. #8
Creality Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing Tube XS Series 1 Meter 1.75MM Filament with PTFE Teflon Tube Cutter for Ender 3 Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5, Ender 5 Plus CR-10,CR-10V2 3D Printer
Creality Capricorn Bowden PTFE Tubing Tube XS Series 1 Meter 1.75MM Filament with PTFE Teflon Tube Cutter for Ender 3 Ender 3 Pro, Ender 5, Ender 5 Plus CR-10,CR-10V2 3D Printer
  • 100% Original Capricorn XS Serious tubing Original.
  • High Lubricity Additives make our XS Series tubing the lowest friction Bowden tubing on the market. Less friction means more responsiveness, less retraction, more accurate prints, less slippage, wear, and tear on the extruder, and less clogging when printing chunky filaments such as some woodfills or ironfills.
  • Lower retraction means time saved every time the extruder retracts. Over the course of a print, a few milliseconds here and a few there add up to a lot of time saved.
  • 1.9mm ± 0.05mm Inner Diameter Reduces the "wiggle room," or buckling, inside the tube, allowing you to print flexible filaments even on the longest Bowden systems.
  • High Temperature Resistance due to using only the highest quality PTFE. Our XS tubing will operate at even higher temperatures than our TL.
Rank No. #9
Creality Capricorn Bowden Tubing XS Series with Upgraded PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fittings, PTFE Teflon Bowden Tube 1.2M for 1.75MM Filament with Ender 3 Upgrade Springs (PTFE Tube 1.2m)
Creality Capricorn Bowden Tubing XS Series with Upgraded PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fittings, PTFE Teflon Bowden Tube 1.2M for 1.75MM Filament with Ender 3 Upgrade Springs (PTFE Tube 1.2m)
  • 【100% Genuine Capricorn XS Bowden Tubing】Capricorn Premium XS bowden Tubing is enhanced with a proprietary blend of high performance additives. It was developed specifically for 1.75mm filament with an extremely precise 1.9mm ± 0.05mm internal diameter. Reduces the "wiggle room" or buckling, inside the tube, allowing you to print flexible filaments even on the longest Bowden systems.
  • 【Less Friction】High Lubricity Additives makes Capricorn XS Series tubing has the lowest friction than other ordinary bowden tube. More responsiveness, less retraction, more accurate prints, less slippage, wear,and tear on the extruder, and less clogging when printing chunky filaments.
  • 【Higher Temperature Resistance】High Temperature Resistance due to using only the highest quality PTFE. Capricorn PTFE XS Series is rated for withstanding the highest temperatures in the market which is perfect for printing exotic filaments such as ABS, Nylon, and Polycarbonate. it stands the highest standards for PTFE tubing in all of 3D printing.
  • 【PC4-M6 And PC4-M10 Fittings】PC4-M6 fittings thread M6/3mm, inner diameter(blue end) 4mm, fit for the tube whose outer diameter is 4mm, the fitting made of premium copper and plastic, sturdy and durable. PC4-M10 fittings: thread M10/6mm, inner diameter(black end) 4mm, fit for the tube whose outer diameter is 4mm, the fitting made of high qulity stainless steel and plastic, high hardness, antioxidtion, anti corrosion.
  • 【4 Pcs Upgraded Bed-Level Springs】The die springs are stiffer than ordinary spring, making bed levelling easier and stronger than the stock ones, and help your 3D printer much more stable while printing. If you have any questions and concern, please feel free to contact with us. Our after-sales technical team will provide you with detailed solutions within 24 hours.
Rank No. #10
Creality Capricorn XS Series Low Friction PTFE Bowden Tubing 2 Meters for 3D Printer1.75mm Filament with PTFE Tube Cutter Upgrade kit for Ender 3 V2,Ender 3 Pro,Ender 5 ProCR-10 V3 Series 3D Printer
Creality Capricorn XS Series Low Friction PTFE Bowden Tubing 2 Meters for 3D Printer1.75mm Filament with PTFE Tube Cutter Upgrade kit for Ender 3 V2,Ender 3 Pro,Ender 5 ProCR-10 V3 Series 3D Printer
  • 100% Capricorn Original from Creality.
  • High Lubricity Additives make XS Series tubing the lowest friction bowden tubing on the market. More responsiveness, accurate prints, less retraction , slippage, wear, and tear on the extruder,which make the Capricorn tubing advanced in all series.
  • Lower retraction will save you more time while the extruder retracts in printing.
  • 1.9mm ± 0.05mm Inner Diameter Reduces the "wiggle room," or buckling, inside the tube, allowing you to print flexible filaments even on the longest Bowden systems.
  • Advanced material of Capricorn XS Series can make it resist higher temperature, Capricorn XS tubing will operate at even higher temperatures than our TL

Last update on 2021-05-13 / Affiliate links / Product Titles, Images, Descriptions from Amazon Product Advertising API

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Sours: https://romanceuniversity.org/ender-3-bowden-tube/
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Ender 3 Bowden tube popping off

If the fitting is remaining attached to the PTFE tubing, that would indicate that the threaded end of the fitting is pulling out of the drive assembly. This implies that the internal threads of the drive assembly have stripped out. This is not unusual for a plastic drive assembly.

The best solution is to replace the drive assembly. I believe I paid about US$12 for the last one I purchased and it was aluminum, not plastic. A quick search for "Ender 3 drive mechanism" returned a number of choices. One of them from Amazon (14.98) is anodized aluminum and purports to be improved over the original.

ender 3 compatible drive assembly

A less than ideal solution would involve drilling out the stripped threads and installing an insert (sometimes called a Heli-coil™) but that could be as expensive as a replacement mechanism.

answered Jan 2 at 1:51

fred_dot_ufred_dot_u

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$\endgroup$Sours: https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15180/ender-3-bowden-tube-popping-off
How To Change the PTFE Bowden Tube on Your Ender 3 - Quick and easy tutorial

Details about  Ender 3 Upgraded PTFE Teflon Bowden Tube with Improved PC4-M6 & PC4-M10 Fittings

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Sours: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293087718488

3 bowden replacement ender tube

The Ender 3 is a great 3D printer. It is inexpensive and is a good starting printer (as well as a great reliable printer for more advanced users). It is easy to upgrade and there is a large community surrounding its use.

One thing that I see often is that people are having printing issues caused by under- or over-extrusion. Over-extrusion causes items to be bigger than intended (not good when you need pieces to fit together precisely). Under-extrusion can cause poor layer lines and even bad adhesion on layers.

In this post, I'll go over some techniques and products that I use to help me with my extrusion.

Parts used in this post

Replacing the stock Bowden tube

If you already have Capricorn tubing, you can skip below to the Tuning ESteps section.

The stock bowden tube that comes on the Ender 3 has a inner diameter that is a little too big. This allows the filament to move around slightly in the tube which causes stringing issues as well as other extrusion issues. Luckily, there is an easy fix.

Capricorn PTFE Bowden tubes are well known in the 3D printing community for their value and precision. They come highly recommended from many 3D printing experts. I cannot agree more. I have noticed a huge improvement in my 3D prints by using the Capricorn PTFE Bowden tube.

Since we're replacing the bowden tube, now is also a good time to replace the inferior bowden tube couplers on the Ender 3. These are known to slip and allow the bowden tube to pop out in the middle of a print, causing it to fail.

Remove the fan housing from your hotend. Heat your hotend and remove the filament from the printer.

Use an adjustable wrench to hold the heater block while you use a 6mm socket wrench to loosen the nozzle by 3/4 turns (I've found that using the wrench that came with the printer causes it to strip more easily. I use a socket from this set). This is in preparation for ensuring that the new tube is flush against the back of the nozzle.

Disconnect the stock bowden tube from the heatsink by pushing the tab in and then pushing the bowden tube in and then immediately pulling it out. It may take some effort as the tube is inserted all the way down to the back side of the nozzle. If you can't pull the tube out, you can unscrew the coupler from the heatsink using the wrench that came with the printer and pull it out that way. Be careful as the end of the tube will be hot.

Once you have the tube removed from the hotend, remove the coupler from the extruder.

Replace the couplers on the extruder and heatsink. Cut your Capricorn tubing to the correct length (I used half of the tube). Make sure it is a flush and straight cut. If one end is straighter than the other, use it in the hotend. Insert the new Capricorn bowden tube into each coupler. While the hotend is still hot, push the tube all the way down until it hits the back side of the nozzle. Once that is inserted, hold the heat block with an adjustable wrench while you use the 6mm socket wrench to tighten the nozzle. Be careful not to over-tighten as the nozzle is made of soft brass and will easily strip.

My printer came with two coupler clips that I inserted in the coupler to ensure that they do not pop out. If your printer did not come with any, you can print some out using this thing on Thingiverse.

Tuning ESteps

This one seems complicated, but it's actually quite easy. I have discovered a technique that only requires a simple 10 mm calibration cube and a spreadsheet.

First, grab the 10 mm extruder calibration cube from Thingiverse. Print it in Vase Mode (Spiralize outer contours in Cura). It takes about 3 minutes to print. Make sure your wall width is 0.40mm. Once this has been printed, use the calipers to measure the average wall width on all four sides of the box.

Once you have the average width, use this spreadsheet and plug in the values in the Yellow cells.

To get the current ESteps, connect your printer to your computer (or use OctoPrint's terminal) and use Pronterface (or other 3d Printer interface) and type in

To get your printer's current settings. Look for a line like the following:

The number after the E is your current ESteps. After plugging this value into the spreadsheet, grab the value in the Green cell for the gcode.

Paste that command into the 3D printer terminal and press enter. Once it has been entered, type

to save the settings to the printer.

Print the cube again. Measure the walls and get an average width. If it's close enough to 0.40mm, then you are done. If not, plug the value from the previous gcode cell into the Current ESteps cell and enter the new width measurement. This will give you a new gcode ESteps value.

Enter that into the terminal and repeat the process until you have a value as close to 0.40mm as you can get.

I find that I prefer this process to the one on the RepRap page. However, you may find that it works better for you if this technique does not.

Sours: https://cerkit.com/2019/05/05/handling-extrusion-issues-on-the-ender-3/
Creality Ender 3 V2 - No More Movement at the Bowden Tube Fitting to Extruder By Doing This!

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