8th gen civic motor mounts

8th gen civic motor mounts DEFAULT

100% genuine counter guarantee Boomba Racing 8th Gen Honda Civic SI '06-'11 Motor Mounts PURE ALUMINUM FINISH cheap sale

after our loved ones cross over, they are very anxious to let us know they are okay and are aware of what is going on in our lives. if we are not able to feel them around us, they will often give us signs that we cannot ignore. the person who is given the sign usually knows he or she is receiving a message from the other side. i always tell my clients that they do not have to look for signs – the signs will come to them.

the signs our loved ones give us most often are:

1) they come through as an animal. our loved ones are able to use their energy to go inside of an animal, such as a butterfly, ladybug, bird, or dragonfly – for a brief period of time. the animal does something it usually would not do, such as land on us, peck at our window, scream at us, etc.


does this remind you of someone?

2) they place common objects such as feathers, coins, or rocks in our path. our loved ones like to place things over and over again in our path that were significant to them. i have had clients come to me who have had jars filled with feathers, coins, and objects they have found in the most unusual places.


after my grandma died, we found dimes all the time. it was a symbol of the 10 people in our family.


3) they give off fragrances. we can often tell our deceased loved ones are around us when we smell their perfume, flowers, cigar or cigarette smoke, or any other familiar smell they had. there is usually no logical explanation of why the smell is there.

4) they make songs come on at the perfect time. we know they are around when their favorite songs come on at the right time with the exact words we need to hear. often the same song is played in many different places.

5) they come to us in dreams. one of the easiest ways for them to come through to us is in our dreams. all we need to do is to ask them to come, and they will. however, we should ask them to wake us up after they come, or else we will not remember the dream. a dream that is a true visitation will be very peaceful and we will know it is truly our loved one. we will remember this type of dream in detail many years later. (on the other hand, a subconscious dream may be frightening or feel bad. this type of dream is not your loved one.)


who was in your dream?


6) they show us the same numbers over and over. they loved to give us numbers that are relevant to them or you, such as birthdates, anniversaries – or repeating numbers, such as 1111, 2222, 3333, etc. these numbers may appear on clocks, billboards, or any other familiar place.

7) they allow us to feel peaceful for no reason . when our loved ones are in the room, they usually make us feel so loved and at peace. it usually happens at the most unsuspecting time, so there is no logical explanation for our sudden bliss.

8) they place thoughts in our head. because they in spirit form, our loved ones don’t have an audible voice. therefore, they give us messages telepathically. pay attention to thoughts that just “pop” into your head. we can tell the difference between our thoughts and theirs by backtracking our thoughts. if you can find the thought that triggered the thought of your loved one, it is probably your thought. if something your loved one would say just pops in your head for no reason, it is probably him or her speaking directly to you!

9) they love to play with electricity. they turn electricity on and off. they like to flicker lights, turn the television and radio on and off, and make appliances beep for no apparent reason.




10) they make buzzing noises in our ears. because our loved ones speak to us on a different, higher frequency, we may hear ringing in our ears when they are trying to get our attention. this is a sign telling you to listen to what they are saying.

the list can go on and on, but these are the most common ways they let us know they are around. if you haven’t received any of these signs, simply ask your loved ones to come to you to let you know they are okay. tell them to come to you in a dream and to wake you up after the dream.

. the more you are aware of the messages they are giving you, the more they will continue to allow you to know they are present. be patient and persistent, and i promise that they will give you the signs you have always wanted. they really are okay and want you to be too!

karen noe is a psychic medium, the author of “the rainbow follows the storm – how to obtain inner peace by connecting with angels and deceased loved ones,” “through the eyes of another: a medium’s guide to creating heaven on earth…,” and is the founder of the angel quest center in ramsey, nj. learn more at http://www.throughtheeyesofanother.com.

100% genuine counter guarantee Boomba Racing 8th Gen Honda Civic SI '06-'11 Motor Mounts PURE ALUMINUM FINISH cheap sale


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Top 5 8th Gen Honda Civic Problems (2006 to 2011)

Mechanic explaining top 5 8th Gen Honda Civic problems

If you own an 8th gen Honda Civic (2006 – 2001), you may have come across a couple of problems that are unique to your car. Here are the top 5 Honda Civic issues that we have seen at 1A Auto in the 8th generation model. If you’re looking to buy one, this guide will help you know what to expect. 

Fix 8th gen Honda Civic problems yourself with quality auto parts at 1aauto.com

Resolving 8th Gen Honda Civic Problems (2006 to 2011)

1. Occupant Airbag Sensor

Airbag light that turns on when the airbag sensor fails

Symptoms of Occupant Airbag Sensor Failure

The most common symptom that you’ll notice when the airbag sensor goes bad is seeing the airbag light pop up on the dash. Unless you got involved in an accident, there’s really no other way to know when you’re having this issue.  

Causes of Occupant Airbag Sensor Failure

The passenger side occupant airbag sensor ensures that the airbag is always ready to deploy. This only happens if the person seated weighs more than 50 pounds. If the person weighs less than that, the airbag is deactivated to prevent it from deploying. This ensures that it does not harm a child. Sometimes the airbag sensor can fail on the 2006 to 2011 Honda Civic.

How to Fix Occupant Airbag Sensor Failure

One of the best solutions for the problem would be to disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it like that for about 30 minutes. Secondly, check to see if the two yellow connectors found underneath the passenger seat are well connected. You can squeeze them to see if they’ll click into place and check whether the light on the dash goes away. 

It’s also very common for sensors to go bad. Honda has a recall out for the occupant airbag sensor. The next best solution would be to head over to Honda and have them go through the recall process. 

2. Motor Mount Issues

8th Gen Honda Civic Motor Mount

Symptoms of Motor Mount Failure

Unfortunately, the bushing tends to wear and tear due to the continuous vibration coming from the engine. Symptoms here include a loud clumping and thumping noise that seems as if your engine is hitting up against your firewall. You may also see minor or major stress cracks on the mount’s rubber bushing and separation in severe cases. 

Causes of Motor Mount Problems on the 8th Gen Honda Civic

Motor mounts are parts that hold the engine to the car’s body. They comprise two metal pieces–one connected to the engine and the other to the body. They have a rubber bushing in between to help absorb vibrations from the engine whenever you step on the gas. 

How to Fix Motor Mount Failure

If you suspect your motor mounts are weak, grab a second person and have them do a brake stand (i.e. holding the brake and then the gas) in Drive while you watch the engine from one of the sides of the vehicle. Ask them to hold the brake and hit the gas. You want to see if the engine will rock around more than it’s supposed to. 

If you don’t see any abnormal movements, ask the other person to do the brake stand in Reverse. Remember to stand at a safe distance from the car and away from the front or rear. You’ll need to replace all the engine mounts if you notice that there’s a lot of engine movement. 

3. Window Switch Failure

Window switch

Symptoms of Window Switch Failure

Electrical circuits don’t work well with moisture or water. As such, one of the symptoms that you might notice is a window that fails to go up or down when you operate the switch. The switch may also start to work after a couple of tries and stop again. 

Causes of Window Switch Problems on the 2006 to 2011 Honda Civic

On the 8th generation Honda Civic, you’ll have window switches on the driver and passenger doors. The switches on the passenger door are notorious for going bad. This happens when moisture or snow gets through the window and penetrates into the switch’s circuit board. 

How to Fix Window Switch Failure

The first step to fixing the problem is to take the switch apart and inspect it. You want to check if there’s corrosion, moisture, or debris that could have made its way in there. You can go further and test for power and ground and ensure those go where they are supposed to. If you have power getting to the switch but none leaving, you’ll need to replace the switch. Remember to also check the fuses for damage. 

4. Front Control Arm Bushings

Symptoms of Front Control Arm Bushings

With time, the control arm bushings wear out due to exposure to oil and external elements. Some of the common symptoms you’ll notice include a clunking sound when accelerating, when going over bumps, or when coming to an abrupt stop. This happens when the rubber bushing fails to hold everything together while the control arm tries to shift. 

Tire wear on an 8th Gen Honda Civic

The failure may also cause the car to feel a bit squirrely every time you hit a small bump. This is because the bushing creates some wiggle room for the control arm to do whatever it wants. If you were to look at your tires, you’d also notice that one side wears out more than the other. This is caused by an alignment issue that occurs as a result of a bad front control arm bushing. 

8th Gen Honda Civic front control arm bushings

Causes of Front Control Arm Bushings

The front control arms are parts that connect the vehicle’s sub-frame to the ball joint and knuckle attached to the wheel. They also feature rubber bushings for vibration dampening and noise reduction. They help with the control arm’s ability to pivot. 

You can test the bushings by putting a pry bar in between the sub-frame and the control arm itself. You want to give it an upward push to see how much the arm moves. It’s also good to check for cracks and separations along the rubber. 

The driver’s side will have two bushings and so will the passenger’s side. Remember to check them all. You’ll need to replace them if they are badly off. It’s also advisable to get a four-wheel alignment afterward. 

5. Wiper Blade Motor Failure

Windshield wipers on a 2006 to 2011 Honda Civic

Symptoms of Wiper Blade Motor Failure

You may notice that your wiper blades do not go all the way down when you turn them off. In serious cases, they may fail to operate. This is caused by a damaged wiper motor or something else that went bad in the wiper system. 

Causes of Wiper Blade Motor Problems on the 8th Gen Honda Civic

The wiper blade motor is an electronic part of the wiper system that activates the regulator every time you operate the wiper switch. The regulator in turn moves the wiper arms to help clear your windshield of any water or debris. Since the motor is an electronic component, it’s bound to go bad over time. The problem could be permanent or intermittent. 

This happens a lot when car owners try to clear heavy snow off their windshields using the wipers. It puts a lot of pressure on the arms and wiper motor.

How to Fix Wiper Motor Failure

The first step to fixing the problem is to first identify if the issue is permanent or intermittent. 

The next is to check for blown fuses, bad wiring and confirm if you have power leading to the motor. If you have power getting to the motor but none leaving, you’ll need to replace it with a new one. 

8th Generation Honda Civic Model Years

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Shop 8th Gen Honda Civic Parts

Top 5 8th Gen Honda Civic Problems: 8th Generation 2006 to 2011
Top 5 8th Gen Honda Civic Problems: 8th Generation 2006 to 2011
If you own an 8th gen Honda Civic (2006 - 2001), you may have come across a couple of problems that are unique to your car. Here are the top 5 Honda Civic issues that we have seen at 1A Auto in the 8th generation model. If you’re looking to buy one, this guide will help you know what to expect.
1A Auto
Sours: https://blog.1aauto.com/8th-gen-honda-civic-problems/
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Motor mounts installation on 8th gen Civic Si

After-market motor/engine mounts are a nice upgrade over your stock mounts and they can be used either if you have added more power to your engine... or not.

What do motor/engine mounts do!?

Overall, motor mounts are basically stiffer mounts than stock and they help keeping the engine more stable inside the engine bay. They remove or drastically reduce, the engine's movement when doing some "spirited driving" :).
By reducing the engine's movement under harsher driving conditions, you actually help the engine to put more usable power to the wheels, improve the shifting experience and reduce the stress on transmission and other moving parts inside the engine bay - like drive-shafts, pipes (exhaust or intake), etc.

Also, by keeping the engine's movement to the minimum, you improve the car's balance and it should be more predictable during hard cornering.

Some people even go as far as saying that it helps with eliminating the "wheel-hop" on the car - not entirely true (but that's another topic to discuss).
What actually happens (depending on the bushings on your control arms and your drive-shafts), is that the "point" where you get the wheel-hop gets "shifted" NOT "removed/eliminated".
By adding more power on your car, the wheel-hop will be back in no time :).

Before jumping on these though, you need to know the one small down-side that for some of you might be a deal-breaker...

Stock mounts are softer for a reason... they are designed to absorb the engine's vibrations and keep them away from the body of the car. By installing "stiffer" mounts you will transfer some of those vibrations to the body... the stiffer the mounts the stronger the vibrations.
This for you will translate as shaky steering wheel and rattle inside the car when idling, first gear launches or using the AC. So yes... you will give up on some of the ride-comfort. If you have a cruiser, keep it stock mounts.

What do you need!?

  • Mounts
  • Jack
  • Jack stands
  • Wheel stoppers
  • Wrenches / sockets / power tools... (anything you have to do the job :) )
  • Some red thread-lock (optional, not really required)

As far as the mounts go, well, you have a few options to consider... the brand and the stiffness of the urethane used for the mount.
There are 3 major brands that are building motor mounts for the 8th gen Si (that I know of): Boomba Racing, HaSport and Innovative.
Each brand offers a 3 mount set with a wide variety for the grade of urethane stiffness. Keep in mind that less stiffer = less noise/rattle inside the car. Choose wisely :).
Also, be aware that each brand offers a different combo for their sets and they are quite different looking as well. So do a little bit of homework and choose whatever you think is better suited for your taste and application.
One thing is for sure... whatever brand or grade you choose, it will outperform the stock mounts (even the softer ones).

Personally, after doing some research on what others have done, I decided to go with a combination between Innovative's 3 piece set and HaSport.

Innovative is offering the upper mounts for the passenger and driver side, plus the lower-front mount. And since my car is mostly track dedicated, I got the 95A urethane stiffness - "Extreme racing".
From HaSport, I've only purchased the lower-back mount with the softest urethane they are offering.

How to...

The upper-driver side and the lower-front / back mounts might be a little bit difficult to replace; however, the upper-passenger side should be considerable easier.

Jack-up the front of the car and make sure it sits securely on jack-stands - please do not work under your car without jack-stands! And also make sure the hand-brake is on and the back wheels are blocked - better safe than sorry (hand-brakes DO fail from time to time)!
I would even go as far as having wheels under the car as a back-up safety in case the jack-stands fail (they DO fail as well from time to time...).
OR (as I have), put the car on portable ramps and have jack-stands as a fail safe - but still block the back wheels.

Once the safety issue is taken care of, we can move on with the work... sooo... take a very deep breath... you are about to enter the world of frustration where swearing, bitching and moaning are a requirement :).

Depending on what you are selecting for your application, the installation process might be slightly different than mine, but the removal process should be the same!

  • mrNewt photo
  • mrNewt photo


Lower-back mount...

I've went ahead and started with replacing the lower mounts first; specifically with the lower-back mount (the extra one that I have purchased from HaSport).
This thing in theory is not very hard to replace; however, practice teach me differently :).

Others that have done this before me suggests the use of a jack and a piece of wood to support the engine's weight. Sounded like a good idea and I give it a try... give up on it in the first 5 minutes.
It was taking too much space under the car limiting my movements and as it turns out, if you tackle each mount separately, there's nothing really that you need to support...

What I did was to first remove the 2 bolts that connects the mount to the brackets. Then, I realized that the space is too tight to just simply slide the mount out without rocking / moving the engine (as others have done) so, I've decided to remove the bracket from the engine as well in order to have some space to easily slide the old mount out and also have some space when installing the new one.

There are 4 bolts on the engine bracket. The 2 that are on the passenger side can be easier to work on if you remove the passenger wheel and the plastics from the wheel-well (just like you would do when changing the oil filter).
The other 2 bolts can be accessed from under the car.
All 4 of them might require some persuasion but they will come out nicely.

Once all the bolts are out, put them aside because we will re-use them. You will have to move the parts around and they will eventually come out easily - hold the bracket and watch your face :).

When you put back the parts, start first with the HaSport mount - slide it in the frame bracket as far as possible. You need to apply a little bit of "swartz" - a hammer and a piece of wood to bang on it will do the job nicely - don't hit your oil pan with the hammer, pay attention.
Once that is done, you should be able to put the engine bracket back in without any issues. Get the bracket bolts, put some red lock-tight on the threads and then bolt them all by hand - don't tighten them down until all are in. Once they are all in, your bracket is aligned and now you can tighten them down without any issues - use a cross pattern when tightening.

Once the engine bracket is back in and tighten down, you can start moving the mount back in its place - again you need to apply some "swarts" to get it moving in the right spot.
First, align the holes of the mount with the frame bracket. After you align the holes, put some lock-tight on the bolt and put it back in - you can tap it with the hammer lightly if it needs some convincing. Don't tighten it down yet!
Now, align the holes of the mount with the ones from the engine bracket - you might need to use a sturdy piece of wood as a pry-bar to align the holes. Once is done, use some lock-tight on the bolt and back in it goes - again you can use the hammer to lightly tap the bolt to get it in.
Tighten everything down!

That's about it for the lower-back motor mount... as an advice, double check to make sure everything is tighten down and then we can move on the the next mount.

  • mrNewt photo
  • mrNewt photo


Lower-front mount...

This lower-front mount is slightly easier to replace than the lower-back mount.
It brings on the table 4 bolts that needs to be removed and a puzzle :). Keep the bolts because we will be re-using them.

The bolts, are pretty much straight forward but not a breeze... you have to find your own way around with your tools to reach them and remove them.
The more difficult part comes when you have to slide it out :). The trick here is that you HAVE to remove the bracket for the coolant hose that is in that area or else you will have a bad time removing that motor mount...

Once the coolant hose bracket is out, as you are sitting on your back under the car, push the motor mount up until it clears its bracket (you will have to push on the coolant hose as well), rotate it clock-wise 90 degree and then sort-of flip it upside-down while slowly moving to the left - still pushing up. After that it will come off easily.

To put the new mount in, I followed the same steps but in reverse.
When I got down to installing the bolts, I first mounted the 3 small bolts by hand and then placed the larger bolt that goes trough the bracket and mount. You will have to wiggle the mount around in order to make sure each bolt gets in properly!
Once all the bolts were put in by hand, I tighten down everything starting with the 3 small bolts. Once those were nice and tight I tighten down the big bolt that goes trough the mount and frame bracket.

Double check everything again and make sure you don't forget to put back the bracket for the coolant hose (like I did :| - had to lift the car back up :( ).
As always, if you want to, is a good idea to use lock-tight on your bolts when re-installing them

At this point you can put the car back-down on the ground if you wish... but I would recommend to keep it up on the stands / ramps because it will make things easier when working on the top mounts - you won't have to bend too much and also in case you forgot something (like the bracket for the coolant hose :) ) you can easily go back under.

Take a break, have a beer... things MIGHT get easier from here on...

  • mrNewt photo


Upper-driver side mount...

I know I said that things might get easier from here on, but for those of you that still have the stock intake system and the battery in the engine compartment... I lied... :(.

Yes, as you probably guessed already, you need to make some working space in the engine bay and the intake system, battery and battery bracket will have to go out!
I won't be covering how to do this since I have already replaced my intake and moved the battery in the trunk some time ago... and I honestly do not remember all the steps :(.

As far the mount goes, there are 2 things that needs to be removed - a bracket and the mount - sitting on top of each other. Locate and remove all the nuts and bolts that are connecting it to the engine and frame. Some of the bolts will go trough both parts.

When removing the mount and bracket on the driver side, there are 4 "tricky" things...

  • You might have to disconnect and remove the ECU in order to reach some of the bolts behind it OR (like I have done) you can just bend the bracket / leg that holds the ECU to the frame so you can reach behind it - see images below.
  • There is another bolt under the mount that is not hard to reach but the space won't allow for a lot of movement. You can either reach it from the front-top OR from the bottom-side - after removing the plastics from the wheel-well (no need to remove the wheel)
    Working on the bolt from the wheel-well will give you a little bit of extra working room, but you will have to do this blindly since you cannot see the bolt...
    Whatever option you choose to remove this bolt, be patient... because of the limited space, it WILL take you a little bit of time to remove it.
  • There is a brake line going trough that area... to have more space to work, you will have to "slightly-lightly" bend it from one side to another OR just find your way around it.
  • There is a ground wire that you MIGHT have to relocate if your kit doesn't come with a bracket for it. From what I understand, earlier sets from Innovative didn't had the bracket for the ground wire included.

From here on we will have to use the bolts, nuts and washers included in the Innovative kit (I think earlier sets did not had these included either...).
Also, if your kit was put together by a bunch of trained monkeys (like mine), you will have no instructions and you will have to figure out what bracket and mount you have to use on either side.

Simple solution... match the holes from the provided brackets with the holes where it suppose to connect and this will clear any doubts - also see images below for reference.

On this side, the bracket will be mounted on the frame and the mount itself is going on the engine.

As far as bolts goes, for the bracket, you will have to use the 3 short bolts provided plus one of the longer bolts to connect the bracket to the mount. Make sure you use washers on all the bolts provided by Innovative. And if you haven't used lock-tight so far, I would recommend to use it on the bolts and nuts provided.
When tightening the mount to the engine, you will have to use the tall spacer provided - reuse the stock bolt.

Make sure you first install the mount and then the bracket - you won't have space to insert the mount if bracket is installed first.
Place all the nuts and bolts in their place loosely and then start tightening them down. Start with the bracket that connects to the frame, then the nuts and bolt that connects the mount to the engine and lastly, the bolt that goes trough the mount and bracket.

Make sure you double-check all the bolts and nuts before you put everything back in (intake system, battery bracket, battery, etc...).

  • mrNewt photo
  • mrNewt photo


Upper-passenger side mount...

I think this was the easiest mount to install from all of them...
Mind you it will still take a little bit of time since there are a few bolts and nuts, but nothing as the other ones...

Unlike the driver-side mount, this mount has about 4 components to it.
The mount itself, one bracket with bushing that connects to the bottom frame, one solid bracket that connects to the side frame (we will be re-using this side bracket) and another small solid bracket that connects the mount, side bracket and bottom bracket.
A LOT of brackets on this side... don't worry too much about them though... just remove the bolts and nuts and only keep the side bracket - and the bolts and nuts since we will be re-using some of them.

As with the other mounts... locate all the bolts and nuts for the brackets and mount and remove them. Once they are removed, everything will come apart very easily.

Before you install the remaining bracket and mount from Innovative, make sure you first loosely connect them using the last long bolt and nut provided (use the washers as well).
Slide the mount in its place on the engine and loosely connect the bottom bracket to the bottom frame using the bolts from the old bracket. Also, loosely re-install the side bracket to the side frame (the bracket I mentioned before that we will be re-using).
The side bracket will connect to the bottom bracket with 2 bolts (use the ones that you removed).

Once everything is connected, start tightening them down like this: tighten down the bolt and nut for the mount on the engine... tighten down the bolts for the side bracket... tighten down the bottom bracket to the bottom frame... and lastly tighten down the bolt that goes trough the mount and bottom bracket.

The only thing remaining is to relocate the ground wire.
It can be easily moved to the back of the engine - connect it to the top cover.

Check, double-check, re-install whatever else you might of disconnected, pat yourself on the back and then go out for a test.

  • mrNewt photo
  • mrNewt photo
  • mrNewt photo


Final impressions...

Considering that the mounts I've got are having the urethane stiffness 95A, the ride comfort is not that bad.
There are some noises and shaking around 1000 - 1500 rpms when leaving from a stop (I also have an upgraded clutch kit).
Yes, the whine from the transmission while accelerating is also noticeable... but is all normal (the whine was there before but you didn't hear it - the mounts are amplifying the noise inside the car).

If you are daily-driving your car and is more of a cruiser, stick with the OEM mounts OR if you do want to upgrade your car, go for the lowest stiffness for the urethane.

And that's a wrap... :).
If you have any questions, corrections or anything that you want to add, please feel free to leave a comment at the bottom of this page.
You can also send me an email via "Contact me" form.


I am NOT a professional mechanic. Everything I do I gathered from my experience and from other car enthusiasts.
While what I advise and recommend is one way of doing things, please understand that you take your own chances following my DIYs and I cannot be held responsible if you damage your car or hurt yourself by not following the "proper procedures".

  Sours: https://mrnewt.ca/mods-SIengineMounts.php
Honda Civic Side Engine (Motor) Mount Replacement 2006 (2006-2011 Similar)

Passenger Post Engine Mount Bracket K24 Swap Integra RSX Civic 8th Gen Si DC2 US

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Motor mounts 8th gen civic

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2006-2011 Honda Civic 1.8L ULTIMATE Engine Mount Replacement(all 4 mounts) w/details \u0026 illustrations

It's impossible. he muttered, discouraged. - That's right, that's what I'm telling you, the objects of religion are capable of doing the impossible. I raised my finger to the ceiling in a cautionary manner, taking Sorianne's hand out from under her dress.

- Well, scatter.

Now discussing:

Benson and his dick. Don't be so upset, Sue, I'm sure your dad will be happy to fill your cute little hole while you wait. Okay, Mom, if I get Dad in return. But I want Mr.

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