Honda civic alternator voltage output

Honda civic alternator voltage output DEFAULT

Honda Civic Questionable Alternator

Hi All,

I apologize for the long post but I figured more information is better. I have a small amount of DIY experience with my car but I&#;m no mechanic. I&#;ll say this ahead of time, thank you SO much if you have the time to read this post and offer me any advice.

The TL;DR
&#; Car idles at battery voltage (V)
&#; But voltage is steady at V under load or just with headlights on
&#; Not sure if low idle means alternator is bad

The Problem:
I have a few reasons to believe my alternator is bad, but after extensive research and testing, I&#;m not sure enough to spend $ on a new alternator. I&#;m hoping someone can offer peace of mind as to whether I should replace it, or let it be.

The Car:
Honda Civic LX (US)
L / Automatic / Sedan
I bought it from a Carmax with ~23k miles, currently has ~50k
Done my own maintenance, so far mostly oil changes / tire rotation, once replaced all brake pads and replaced brake fluid

Background:
I&#;ve had no real problems with this car, except I&#;ve been a dunce and left the interior light on, draining the battery and requiring a jump&#; a total of 3 times in the last year. Just a few days ago I did it again and while the jump went fine, the car didn&#;t start on it&#;s own the next time I used it. I figured I finally killed my battery, so I got another jump and drove to Autozone. They did a battery test and confirmed it was done. They also did an alternator test (same tool) and said the alternator was bad as well. This last bit of news surprised me since I was only expecting a bad battery. There was an Oreilly next door so I had them do the same tests and they had the same results. They also did a starter test and said that at least that was good (great).

I bought a new battery so I could actually start my car and went home to do research and see if I could test the alternator myself.

Multimeter Results:
After some research, I whipped out my multimeter and did some extensive testing of the new battery in the car. Here are some results.

  1. With the car off, the battery was at V. I was hoping it&#;d be at V since it was new, but I guess it lost some charge on the shelf. I definitely noticed that all of my interior lights were much brighter with the new battery so that made me happy enough.
  2. With the car on and idling (~RPM), the voltage didn&#;t move, it stayed V. I tried revving to 3, RPM, still no change in Voltage. However as the RPM returned to normal, I noticed a slight (V) increase. It went away when RPM returned to idle. Now I&#;ve read conflicting things on the internet. Most websites/videos (including Eric&#;s) state the idle voltage should still be at least V higher than battery, so AT LEAST 13V. Some places however claim that some cars idle too low to really charge the battery or if the battery is full it won&#;t kick in. Anyways, on to the next test&#;
  3. With the car on and under load (lights, brights, radio, AC, etc.) the Voltage went up to What? It worked totally fine under load. In fact, I turned off everything but the headlights and found that just turning the headlights on and off caused the voltage to stay at

So it appears that my car isn&#;t charging the battery while idle, but under huge load, or just headlights, it works perfectly fine. If I had to guess, I&#;d say the idling voltage being so low is still a bad sign. But I hate the thought of having to replace it when it seems to work fine as long as the lights are on.

One more test that may or may not be significant.

  • I watched the Voltage *as I started the car*. It starts at V since engine is off, then as I start it, it dips to as low as 9V, then slowly rises all the way to V, then slowly goes back to V where it stays while idling. Again this makes me frustrated since it seems like the alternator is capable, just not willing to charge at idle.

Oh, and I also had my dad, who owns a Civic, check his idle voltage and he had V. So unless there&#;s an expected difference in my model, I suppose this is a bad sign.

Some Questions:
1) Is V idle OK or is that definitely going to sap my battery?
2) Despite the alternator working under load (V), should I still replace the alternator?
3) Can I be sure it&#;s the alternator? Does the V mean that maybe the ECU or some component that tells the alternator to charge is bad instead?
4) Is it worth extra money for an OEM / brand NEW part as opposed to aftermarket / re-manufacture?

For now I&#;m driving with the lights on until I figure out if the idle voltage is safe or not for the battery. I appreciate any and all advice and I&#;m of course willing to provide more detail or run some more tests if I can do them with tools I have or can borrow.

Thank you!

Sours: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/forums/topic/honda-civic-questionable-alternator/

I never knew that the alternator charging voltage drops when the battery charge is low. Based on commands from the ECM the voltage regulator uses a pulse-width modulation technique to power the alternators field coil.


New Alternator Not Charging New Battery Honda Tech Honda Forum Discussion

2 The voltage will decrease from Volts DC to Volts DC the more stuff you turn on and the longer your Honda Civic stays running.

honda civic alternator voltage output. Honda Civic High Output Alternators. Either your multimeter will register a nice and steady to voltage in Volts DC no matter what you turned on inside the Civic. The actual charging voltage designed into a voltage regulator is dependent upon factors such as how far the alternator is located from the battery and the ambient air temperature surrounding.

Honda Civic LX US 18L Automatic Sedan. Turned on the car with headlights OFF its still V indication of alternator NOT working. Its the eld system for the hondas makes our alt only pump out volts unless a new load shows up like a window putting down then it tells the pcm to pump up the voltage.

I have a few reasons to believe my alternator is bad but after extensive research and testing Im not sure enough to spend on a new alternator. Honda Civic Charging System Testing The alternator control on the Civic consists of single wire Lin bus controlled alternator a battery load sensor the instrument cluster and the PCM. Below are the available amperages we have for the Honda Civic to

Looking for new car part brands for HONDA CIVIC year of manufacture Take a moment to enter our new BBQ contest here for a chance to win a Walmart gift card. Im hoping someone can offer peace of mind as to whether I should replace it or let it be.

Thread starter 1 Anyone done a high output alternator install. Alternators turn mechanical energy from the engines crankshaft into electricity through induction as the wires inside of the alternator cut through a magnetic field to induce electrical current. This system requires a different approach for testing.

Double it to account for amplifier inefficiency watts X 2 watts then divide by the average output Voltage of an alternator volts divided by 87 amps. The first problem is the air bags turning on and off. Regalternator and battery check OK.

OK lets interpret your multimeter test results in the next page. Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this months Ride of the Month Challenge. Apparently the air bags turn off if a childsomeone is under pounds.

Still using the Civic DX as an example the ignition switch gets its power from the load circuit of the previously mentioned ELD protected by fuses 19 and I bought one from brand x and everytime I install it all my dash lights stay on once I go back to stock everything is fine again. 01 honda civic ex not charging pulled alternator bench tested good checked wiring to the alternator from computer it ohm out good.

However all my previous exs were around pounds so the airbags turn off or on. The alternator only workscharges when my headlines are ON. I think this is a failed voltage regulator on a 2 yr old rebuilt honda civic alternator from HotSpot Auto Parts.

Are you running it with. It is true that you learn something new everyday. Then the voltage starts to drop down to around vdc with the.

Alternator output is on demand when there are loads detected or the battery needs to be charged. Voltmeter said my battery is V. Key on checked voltage to the the connector on the back of alternator blk yel 12v whiblu 49v whitrd 50v grnwhi v.

When the battery is not fully charged and it reads. Order parts from the category Alternator Voltage Regulator inexpensively for your CIVIC We offer a huge range low prices on all auto parts and detailed technical descriptions. BatteryAlternatorVoltage Regulator.

I would have figured that it would have been up higher because it is trying to charge the battery back up to spec. Voltage going over 14 to 17 volts and dropp. Honda civic Chevy Silverado Feb 3

Since the average music signal requires about 13rd of the average power in a test tone divide by 3 87 amps divided by 3 29 amps. If the ECM senses a charging voltage below 11V for at least 1 minute it will set a P charging system low voltage. For about 10 seconds.

At an idle with an adequately charged battery and no load the alternator shows no charging voltage increase. I have a problem with my Honda Civic EX. Hondas alternator internal voltage regulator performs three tasks 1 The Honda dual-mode alternator with integral voltage regulator controls power to the field coil rotor.

Depending on ambient temperature charging voltage varies. The same voltage will be found if there is a problem on the ground-side of the ELD. Honda civic LX 18L wont charge under certain load conditions.

Please note that we may need up to five working days to build these units for you. All of our Civic alternators feature an output between and volts to power your accessories and keep your battery charged. Battery is back to full charge and the alternator is now putting out volts steady at idle.

Alternatorgeneratorregulator problem 6. Ever since I bought the Honda Civic Ive had problems. But as soon as I turn ON the headlights I get V.

The contest ends on June 30th so dont delay. Our high output alternators are a direct bolt-in replacement for your original factory alternator. If a problem occurs on the FR circuit a P16BC alternator FR terminal circuitIGP circuit low voltage will be set.

What voltage output is the alternator producing. Around vdc using a voltmeter across the battery terminals. When the key is turned to the start position current is sent to the control and currently open switch circuit in the underdash fusebox-mounted starter cut relay.


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Sours: https://hondacivicblue.blogspot.com//09/honda-civic-alternator-voltage.html
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How to Test Your Alternator

Having your alternator fail can leave you stranded on the side of the road. Though it is not necessary to know every aspect as to how the alternator works, knowing a few easy tests and some initial signs of failure can keep you

by Robert Tomashek on February 26,

Having your alternator fail can leave you stranded on the side of the road. Though it is not necessary to know every aspect as to how the alternator works, knowing a few easy tests and some initial signs of failure can keep you from having a costly breakdown. To test your alternator, follow these simple steps.

How to test your alternator

  1. Gather your materials - You will first need the following: Rubber hose (Approximately three feet), Safety glasses, Voltage meter or digital multimeter, Wheel Chocks

    Warning: When working under the hood with the engine running you want to always exercise caution around moving parts. Make sure that you do not have any loose clothing that can get caught in the engine.

  2. Park car on level ground - Make sure that your car is parked on a level surface if possible and switch the engine off.

    chocks around rear tires

  3. Apply the wheel chocks - Place the wheel chocks around the driver side rear tire.

    car parked with hood open

  4. Open the hood.

    alternator being pointed out

  5. Locate the alternator - On most vehicles the alternator is located near the top, front of the engine. On other vehicles it can be buried towards the bottom making it more difficult to get to.

    belt between engine showing movement

  6. Check the engine drive belt - Inspect the engine drive belt for tightness.

    Tip: Press on the belt between any two pulleys and make sure that there is not much movement. A loose belt can cause the alternator to not charge properly.

  7. Listen for noises - Start the engine and listen for any strange noises such as squeaking or grinding.

  8. Check the alternator's bearings - Place one end of the rubber hose on the alternator case and the other end to your ear. This works like a doctors stethoscope.

    Tip: If the grinding or squeaking is very loud listening through the hose then you may have a bearing failure beginning in the alternator so it will need to be replaced.

  9. Begin testing the alternator - Now you are ready to begin the actual testing. First turn the engine off.

  10. Connect the voltage meter - Turn your voltage meter on and set it to DC volts, place the positive lead to the positive (+) terminal on the battery and the negative (-) lead to the negative terminal on the battery.

    Tip: If the battery terminals are loose or corroded you want to address that issue first.

    voltage meter reading volts

  11. Observe the battery voltage - It should read volts.

    Tip: If the battery is low you may want to have it load tested.

  12. Read the voltage on the meter - Start the engine and observe the voltage on the meter. The voltage should read a minimum of 13 volts. A good alternator should put out between ** volts.

  13. Stress test the alternator - Place a load on the alternator by turning on the headlights, the radio and the air conditioning. The voltage should remain high with these circuits on. If the voltage does not change when the engine is started, if it does not get above 13 volts, or if it charges above 15 volts then the alternator may be faulty.

    Tip: If the voltage is low, you can lightly wiggle the electrical connections on the back of the alternator to see if the voltage changes. If it does then it may just be a bad connection. Loose or corroded connections on the alternator or the battery can cause bad alternator readings.

These tests are a good way for you prevent sudden breakdowns.

If your tests do not result in any problems, but you continually get a battery warning on the dash of the vehicle, have issues with dead batteries, further testing is needed.

If are not comfortable performing these steps, you should enlist the help of a certified mechanic, that can test or replace your alternator for you.



The statements expressed above are only for informational purposes and should be independently verified. Please see our terms of service for more details

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Related questions

What Causes Dash Warning Lights to Flash?

There are many dash warning lights on your instrument cluster or dashboard. The one that stands out the most is the one that gets the most attention in most cases. These different warning lights come in different colors like red,

Steering wheel hard to turn after alternator replacement

Have the system scanned to see what is causing the light to turn on first. The low voltage conditions might have caused the problem and would need diagnosis of the code to fix the issue. Your power steering pump (https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/symptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-power-steering-pump)


Sours: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-test-your-alternator_2
2002 Honda Civic alternator voltage regulator replacement

Honda alternator and charging systems explained

Honda alternator and charging systems

Honda alternator and charging systems by generation

Honda has used several generations of charging systems in their vehicles. If you don’t know how the Honda alternator and charging systems work in your particular vehicle, it’s very easy to misdiagnose it and falsely conclude that the alternator has failed. Thousands of perfectly good Honda alternators are replaced each year. Let’s take a look at the different generations and how they work so you can avoid a misdiagnosis

NOTE on battery temperature and charging rates

Understanding temperature and charging voltages

Most lead-acid batteries need at least charging volts to overcome the chemical resistance of the electrolyte. But that’s based on a battery temperature of 70°F. As electrolyte temperature drops and chemical activity slows, you need volts or more or more to obtain the same amount of charging activity.

During summer months when battery temperatures are much higher and chemical activity increases, the battery charging voltage must be decreased to prevent boiling the water in the electrolyte. That’s why you may see charging voltages around volts during full charging modes.

Knowing how temperature affects charging is part and parcel of understanding how charging systems work.

Early Honda alternator technology

The early Honda alternators used either an external or internal voltage regulator to control charging voltage and current. Both the mechanical external and solid-state internal voltage regulators include some type of temperature monitoring device used to control charging rates.

These early “stand-alone” systems never communicated with the vehicle ECM and they never monitored the vehicle’s current usage. These early systems weren’t very smart; their charging strategy was based only on the battery’s voltage or State-of-charge and ambient under-hood temperature.

Honda alternator and voltage regulator

Honda alternator and voltage regulator

Drawbacks of voltage-only charging systems

Battery voltage is only one indication of battery condition. Battery voltage at a certain temperature tells you only one thing; the battery’s state-of-charge. It does not tell you the battery’s state-of-health. Let’s say, for example, that the battery has developed a shorted cell. If you test only voltage, the battery will appear as undercharged. No amount of charging will return a battery with a bad cell to a normal state of charge. That’s why current monitoring and “smart charging” was implemented.

Honda implements smart charging

As buyers purchased vehicles with more electrical features like heated seats, rear window defoggers, and better sound systems, the vehicle needed better electrical changing controls. Honda switched to alternators with internal voltage regulators that were controlled by the ECM via a local interconnect network (LIN). The system also included an Electric Load Detector (ELD). The ELD is far more than a voltage monitor. Think of it as an “amp-clamp” that measures vehicle amperage draw. First generation ELDs monitored battery voltage and amperage flowing to and from the battery fuse box or the positive or negative battery cable (the ELD placement varied by year and model).

In these early smart charging systems, the ECM is the “master” and the alternator is the “slave” following commands from the ECM. On engine startup, and once the engine reaches RPM, the alternator begins status communication with the ECM. Alternator voltage must be above volts and the communication must begin within 3-seconds or the ECM will set a trouble code.

The ECM set a charging voltage of volts. The internal voltage regulator monitors the alternator output and reports it to the ECM. If the actual voltage didn’t match the commanded output, the ECM sets a P (P) voltage too low or PP for voltage too high. If the alternator doesn’t charge at all, the ECM sets a PA for No Charging Malfunction. The voltage regulator also tracked internal temperature and reported it to the ECM if the internal temperature exceeded °. The ECM would then set a P16E4 trouble code.

Even though a typical lead-acid battery is considered fully charged at volts, many of the early smart Honda systems were designed to see volts, or 80% state-of-charge, as perfectly normal and the ECM would not command alternator charging. If you started this engine and measured voltage at the battery expecting to see voltage in the range, you might misdiagnose this as a failed alternator.

That’s why testing while idling with no electrical loads on can lead to unnecessary alternator replacement. You must turn on electrical loads to test charging voltage. Even then, a voltage test, by itself, is not an accurate measure of the charging system’s performance. You must also check amperage.

Lessons from a smart charging system

The key to understanding a smart charging system is this:

When a charging system is monitoring amps in or out of the battery, the charging system’s MAIN function is to supply the electrical needs of the vehicle’s electrical components. Its MINOR function is to recharge the battery.

Honda Dual Mode Charging systems

Starting with many Honda and Acura vehicles use a dual-mode charging system. The system consists of an Electric Load Detector (ELD) to determine vehicle electrical load, an alternator with an internal voltage regulator, and communication with the ECM. The system is designed to produce just enough power to maintain electrical loads and recharge the battery. The dual-mode system is designed to increase fuel economy and reduce the load on the engine by up to 10%.

Honda alternator low output mode

During startup and periods of low electrical loads or after the battery has been recharged after startup, the ECM will set the charging voltage at a lower volts. Honda maintains voltage at this low rate once the battery is fully charged in order to maintain battery charge. It’s important that you understand this low output mode as you can easily confuse this low voltage as a low charging problem when, in fact, it’s perfectly normal.

Low output mode is used when:

The electrical load below 15 Amps, although this varies with year, engine and model,
The vehicle speed between mph or at idle while in drive,
The engine speed below 3, rpm,
The coolant temperature above °F
The A/C Switch is OFF
The intake air temperature above 68°F

Honda alternator high output mode

The ELD reports to the ECM and the ECM, along with various other sensors determines the charging voltage. For example, if the ECM detects an AC request and powers the AC compressor clutch, the ECM will set the charging rate at V. This is referred to as the high output mode

Outside of the above listed low output mode parameters, the ECM will place the charging system in the high output mode.

Honda dual-mode charging system components

Internal voltage regulator

Honda’s alternator internal voltage regulator performs three tasks

1)     The Honda dual-mode alternator with integral voltage regulator controls power to the field coil (rotor). Based on commands from the ECM, the voltage regulator uses a pulse-width modulation technique to power the alternator’s field coil. In other words, the regulator pulses battery voltage and full current on and off to the field coil. If the voltage is on for .5 of a second, that’s referred to as a 50% duty cycle. When power is on for the full second, the alternator is at a % charging rate.

2)     The internal regulator also communicates the field rotor status back to the ECM so it can determine the rate of charging.

3)     The internal voltage regulator on some models controls the charge warning indicator lamp by toggling the ground side of the circuit on or off. However, on the latest Honda vehicles, the charge warning indicator lamp function is no longer part of the voltage regulator. When the alternator reports a problem to the ECM, the ECM sets a trouble code and communicates digitally with the gauge control module to light the BATTERY light on the instrument cluster.

The Electric Load Detector (ELD) Function

The ELD inside the fuse box or at the battery terminals. The ELD measures and reports the amount of electrical energy being used by the vehicle and reports this data to the ECM. The ECM provides a 5V reference to the ELD and the ELD pulls the reference voltage to ground as the electrical load increases.

For example, You should see volts found at the ELD terminal when the vehicle is using little power and volts when there is a high electrical load. \

Honda alternator five-wire wiring connections

The five terminal Honda alternators use these terminal functions

Ignition (IG) — The IG terminal is energized when you turn the IGN key to the RUN position. This power is used to power the voltage regulator.

Control (C) — The C terminal is used to communicate with the ECM to control the charging mode. The voltage regulator sends voltage to the ECM through this connection. Based on input from the ELD and various sensors, the ECM determines electrical load and charging mode. The ECM holds the voltage high to command the voltage regulator to operate in high output mode, or it pulls the voltage low to command low output mode (V).

Field Reference (FR) — This terminal tells the ECM field (rotor) status. For example, if the field current is high, resistance to rotation will also be high. In that case, the ECM will increase engine idle speed. The ECM sends a 5-volt reference to the voltage regulator on the FR terminal. When the field is ON, the voltage regulator will pull this reference voltage down. When the field is OFF, the reference voltage will remain near 5 volts.

Battery (B) — This terminal/wire goes directly to the battery to recharge it. This is the output from the alternator. The ring terminal connects to a stud on the back of the alternator. All the other connections are in a plastic connector.

Lamp (L) — Honda has used two different methods of illuminating the charge warning indicator lamp. On some models, the L terminal provides ground to the charge warning indicator lamp, thus illuminating the bulb. At startup, before the field coil is energized, the terminal is ground and the warning light is lit. If the alternator is working as intended, the L terminal removes the ground and the light is out.

On newer model Honda vehicles, the ECM sends source voltage to the L circuit. In the event of a fault,  the voltage regulator will pull the voltage to ground. The ECM senses the voltage drop and communicates with the gauge control module over the CAN bus to turn on the charge warning indicator light.

Diagnose a Honda No Charge Condition

On five-wire models, check for continuity between the B terminal and the battery positive terminal. With the IGN in the RUN position, check for battery voltage on the IG terminal.

Diagnose a Honda low charge condition on a dual charging mode Honda

If the BATTERY light is on:

1)     Check for slipping alternator belt or idle speed too low before proceeding with any other tests
2)     Check that no added electrical accessories have been connected directly to the battery cables. All vehicle power MUST be measured by the ELD or you will get faulty alternator operation
3)     Check the C voltage in the alternator connector. If this connector/wire is shorted to ground, the alternator will stay in low output mode. This will result in dim headlights at stop lights or dim lights when turning on high load electrical accessories.
4)     Check for short to ground or open on the L wire at the alternator connector.

If the BATTERY light is NOT on but the alternator is not charging:

1)     Check for an open on the L terminal. An open on the L wire will never allow the charge warning light to come on, even during bulb test at key ON.

A P (ELD circuit high voltage) can be caused by a faulty solder on the ELD. If this is the case, 5V will be found at the ELD signal terminal at the ECM. At first, technicians were required to replace the whole fuse box. However, technicians are now required to disassemble the fuse box and replace only the ELD. The same voltage will be found if there is a problem on the ground-side of the ELD.

P16BC (alternator FR terminal circuit/IGP circuit low voltage) will be set. If the ECM senses a charging voltage below 11V for at least 1 minute.

P (charging system low voltage). In some cases, if all of the previously stated codes are set with other P-type codes such as P (MAF sensor circuit low voltage) or P (secondary HO2S [sensor 2] heater circuit malfunction), it might be caused by an open at terminal F5 (YEL) of connector F in the fuse box under the dash.

Honda two-wire alternator charging systems

This is the latest generation charging system. The alternator has two wires; the B wire goes directly to the underhood A fuse and then to the battery. The other wire goes to the ECM/PCM.

How the two-wire Honda charging system works

The ECM/PCM gathers data from the various sensors including the ELD and determines the required charging rate. Based on that data, the PCM commands the alternator to provide a specific charging rate (voltage) between and volts, using volt steps. If commanded versus actual voltages and charging rates are not achieved, the ECM/PCM sets a trouble code and communicates with the gauge control module to illuminate the charge warning indicator.

Honda alternator wiring diagram

©, Rick Muscoplat

Posted on by Rick Muscoplat

Sours: https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/honda-alternator-and-charging-systems-explained/

Civic output honda alternator voltage

April 02, Updated: January 22, By: Abraham Torres-ArredondoArticle ID:

How To Test The Alternator (Honda L, L)

This article will show you how to do a simple alternator test on your Honda Civic with a simple multimeter. No need for expensive diagnostic testing equipment.

The entire test is explained in a step-by-step manner and can be done in under 10 minutes.

One last thing before we start, you'll notice that the photos I'm using in this article show the alternator off of the Honda Civic but this is just to make the explanation of the test easier. When you do the test on your Honda Civic, it will be an On Car Test, so don't remove the alternator from the car.

ALTERNATOR TEST 1: Testing Battery Voltage With A Multimeter

OK, to get this show on the road, the first thing you'll do is to test the battery's voltage with the engine running. This simple and easy multimeter test will let you know if the alternator is indeed charging the battery or not.

The battery on your Honda Civic has to be fully charged, to be able to successfully accomplish this multimeter test. Why? Well, because the battery has to have enough juice to 1.) crank and start the engine and 2.) keep the engine running for about 10 minutes while you perform this test.

Be careful, the engine will be running. So take all necessary safety precautions. Alright, I'm done talking -let's get testing:

  1. 1

    Set your multimeter (whether it's digital or analog) on Volts DC mode and crank up and start your Honda Civic.

  2. 2

    With the multimeter test leads, probe the battery terminals. RED lead on the battery positive and the BLACK lead on the negative terminal.

  3. 3

    What you're looking for is one of two results:

    1.) A steady to Volts DC.

    2.) Or Volts DC that will steadily decrease as long as the engine is running.

  4. 4

    With the engine still running, you need to turn everything on, inside your Honda Civic, that you can possibly turn on.

    For example, turn on the A/C or Heater on high and then eyeball the multimeter. Then turn on the windshield wipers on high, and again take a look at your multimeter. Now, turn on the radio, turn on anything and everything that can be turned on that uses electricity to run.

  5. 5

    As you're keeping an eye on your multimeter's display screen, this is what you'll see:

    1.) Either your multimeter will register a nice and steady to voltage (in Volts DC) no matter what you turned on inside the Civic.

    2.) The voltage will decrease from Volts DC to Volts DC the more stuff you turn on and the longer your Honda Civic stays running.

OK, let's interpret your multimeter test results in the next page.

Sours: https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/honda/LL/how-to-test-the-alternator-1
2002 Honda Civic alternator voltage regulator replacement

Lying next to him, Aunt Natasha looked at him with a smile. - You Vadichka, do not be embarrassed by us. What is it now, if it all turned out that way.

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She tried to kiss him goodbye, but he deftly dodged it. And threw a crumpled piece of paper with her phone out the window Vanya wanted to add: I have a mole on my shoulder, but refrained. Aglaya, meanwhile, continued: Do you, Vanya, have many acquaintances, young people, comrades.



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