C5 corvette rear main seal

C5 corvette rear main seal DEFAULT
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  1. ,  AM#1

    Default Rear Main Seal and Clutch replacement. What else should be done while in there?

    Hi, I have a ' 6speed with @k miles. It has developed a pretty good leak and after pulling the 2 covers by the flywheel discovered the leak was coming from in there. So the rear main seal is leaking and I am going to have it replaced along with the clutch.
    The labor for the rear main is 10hrs and overlaps the labor for clutch so it just seems right to put on a new one.

    My question to you guys that know about what all is down there in the belly of this beast is what else should I have replaced while I am in there?
    I don't have much extra cash but I don't want to throw myself in front of on coming traffic later because I didn't do something while in there.

    Any advice on this is well appreciated.

    Currently the list is:
    Rear Main Seal
    Fly Wheel
    Throw out bearing
    Pilot bearing
    Seal Plate (I think that's what they called it)

    Anyone who is in Phoenix area that has a shop recommendation is GREATLY appreciated as well!!!

  2. ,  AM#2
    Join Date
    New Haven, Ct


    HI there,

    Someone better make sure that either the oil pan gasket or the main cap side bolts is not the actual culprit.

    Truth is that many people will misdiagnose if oil dye is not used and correct parts used and torqued accurately.

    A full visual inspection, including all over that engine should be evaluated.

    Also, if that rear main seal housing is not ALIGNED correctly to the crankshaft, you can have a repeat oil leak.

    Allthebest, Paul

  3. Default


    The main cap side bolts, where are they? Easy to get to? Can you post a pic?

    I'd like to check mine.


    Six Speed, Torch Red Coupe

  4. ,  AM#4


    I think there is already a schematic posted, try search the forum??

    I could be wrong, maybe the "old" forum.

    Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    i (traded), IS, M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16,'17 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips.Click below.


  5. Default

    They are on side of the block, just above the pan mating surface. Bolted into the sides
    thru the block into each main cap.

    side pan bolt.jpg

    Dennis "Fix" Fixsen dba FixVet Detailing Services, Clever, MO
    Black over Torch Red Coupe, A4, F45, rear, HP Tune, CAI, Vararam Velocity Stack, Z06 TI Catbacks, drilled/slotted rotorsVFW Life Member, VN Vet , 4thINF & stABN

  6. ,  PM#6


    I agree with Paul, make triple sure you HAVE found the leak. Having said that mine WAS the front engine cover.

    Second thing is make sure the guy doing the work follows correct procedure, my guy botched it & then had to do it over and then his work came apart (balancer came off) about a year later and I had to do that over myself. Sheesh!

    Good luck. I used dye to find mine. But don't drive it too far or the dye goes all over the place.

    Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    i (traded), IS, M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16,'17 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips.Click below.


  7. ,  AM#7


    Thanks to all who have given input.

    A friend (much better mechanic than myself) and I searched all around the engine for signs of the oil. I had thought it was the oil pressure sensor in the back by the firewall but with the help of his (cam on a stick)was able to rule that out as it was clean and dry. Prior to this I had never seen a drop on or around the engine. We lifted it up and sure enough there was a lot on the bottom of the oil pan so we cleaned it up and turned it onto watch. There is some coming from the oil pan gasket but did not explain the quantity. He pulled the 2 inspection covers off and could see into where the fly wheel is and a lot of oil in there. Is there something else in there that would leak?

    You guys have mentioned about finding someone who will follow procedures and another about using a torque wrench. I have had bad experience with GM and not following torque specs that (long story short) damaged my car and had to go head to head with the service manager. (that story was on the old site and I remember Paul contributing helpful advice)

    I am at this point going with a shop that has been around a long time and specializes on high end sports cars as well as has a 24month/24k miles warranty. They are quoting 2k k parts and labor with all GM parts. I don't really mod this car as I love it just the way I got it!

    Honestly this repair scares me to death to think of how much could go wrong if the tech is in a hurry or under pressure etc

    Thanks again to everyone!

    How do you know without standing over their shoulder if they will apply their best to your car?

  8. ,  PM#9


    Has the shop that quoted you 2k inspected the car?? I don't get that. Most shops won't "take your word for it" as to what is wrong.

    Did you do a full clean up & put dye in yet?


    Z06/Z16 Stock motor, very modified suspension

    Black/gray LT4 Coupe (sold)

    i (traded), IS, M3 (sold), Chevy & Ford & Lexus SUV's.

    '06,'09,'10,'11,'12,'13,'16,'17 SCCA Regional Solo Champion

    Visit my DIY video channel for tips.Click below.


  9. ,  PM#10

  10. ,  AM#12


  11. ,  PM#13


    Took it to the shop today and he cleaned all the oil up real good then added dye to verify the actual leak.
    Turns out it was the Rear Cover Gasket and also a leaking oil temp sensor.

    Replacing the
    LS Rear Cover assy' (includes gasket and seal)
    C5 Pilot Bearing.
    LS Oil temp sensor.
    C5 Slave cylinder.
    Remote slave cylinder bleeder line.
    LS7 Clutch kit.
    Change transmission fluid.
    Change differential oil and repair leaking seal.

    Billing hrs labor and is giving me a 24/24 warranty.
    Seems like a pretty good shop with a ton of experience on Corvettes specifically as well as others. And from the looks of the vehicles other people are trusting him with, I am feeling pretty optimistic.

    Thanks to all of you for all of your advice.
    This site really makes a big difference to those of us who do not have the mechanical background but still have the love for our cars.

    Will update again once I get my car back this weekend.

  12. Default

    Glad your shop seems trusted and did not steer you wrong right off the bat!
    Last edited by toolguy; at PM.

    Six Speed, Torch Red Coupe

  13. ,  PM#15


    Ok, I got my car back from the shop a few days ago. No engine oil seen under the car. Seems like they took good care of my car and were thorough. They even fixed my uneven exhaust tips that drove me crazy for years while they were at it (no charge).

    The LS7 Clutch is going to take some getting used to. I thought it was supposed to feel exactly the same but I have to have my foot against the floor now. They tell me that's the way this clutch is. Others tell me its just new and will work its way back as the clutch wears down. And yet someone else told me it needs to be bled more. I guess I will see if they will give the bleeding thing a try. Sure would be nice if there was an adjustment for it. As it is this is going to be pretty tiresome on my leg driving in traffic.

    Thanks everyone for your input. I said it before and will say it again, this site is the greatest!

Sours: https://www.thecorvettemechanic.com/forum/


If you haven’t already replaced the oil pressure sender (CC part # ) on your C5 Corvette, it will become a necessity when the gauge stops functioning properly. One telltale sign is the oil pressure gauge needle leaning past the high mark at all times or not moving from the lowest point. Another sign is an oil leak near the rear of the oil pan. Many times, the presence of oil is mistaken for a leaking rear main seal; always look at the top of the bellhousing for the source of a leak. If there is a trail of fresh oil cascading over the bellhousing, chances are the sending unit is leaking. Sending units have an immediately noticeable leak, whereas rear main seals usually experience a slow leak that increases over time.

This job will require you to remove your air cleaner, intake, and fuel rail, so if you have been considering an upgrade to any of these items now is the time.

You may or may not remove the fuel rail for this job, but if you decide to remove it before you tear into the engine, make sure to first remove the fuel pump fuse. Attempt to start the engine until all of the fuel is drawn out of the system. At first, the engine will start then die during cranking. Try this a few times until the engine does not start at all. This will decrease the amount of fuel in the rail. Then disconnect the battery.

When disconnecting the weather-pack connectors for the engine wire harness, be aware of the silicone seal used to prevent water, dirt, and debris from corroding the sensor connections. Many times, the seals fall off and are missed during reassembly, leaving a connection vulnerable to corrosion. Unfortunately, the seals are not available separately; they are considered part of the connector. In the shop, we always salvage the seals when we replace broken connectors, so it is feasible that a local repair shop may have a seal if need be.

Disconnect the mass air flow sensor connector from the air intake.

Disconnect the intake air temperature sensor from the air duct assembly.


Disconnect the throttle actuator connector.


Loosen the clamp that secures the intake bellows to the throttle body.


Disconnect the throttle position sensor.


05a- Disconnect the MAP and knock sensor connectors at the rear of the engine.


Disconnect the coil pack connectors on both rails. The fuel injector harness connectors and gray plastic wire supports are also removed. The gray plastic wire supports use a winged post to hold them in the fuel rail and a pair of needle nose pliers works well to collapse the wings on the post to release them.


Disconnect the PCV valve supply hose at the intake manifold.


Remove the (4) 10mm bolts and one 8mm bolt that secure the fuel rails. The 8mm bolt is an intake manifold retaining bolt that is used to ground the fuel rail to the engine via the stainless steel strap.


At this point, it is a good idea to use compressed air to remove any debris from the top of the engine prior to removing the fuel rails and intake manifold.


PB’laster or an equivalent lubricant (WDCRC) is sprayed into the bowls where the fuel injectors are inserted into the intake manifold, to help loosen the seals during removal. Rotate the injectors back and forth to let the lube work its way between the seal and intake.


Disconnect all injector connectors. Push the metal fastener wire inward while pulling up on the connector. The weather-pack seal is placed back inside the injector connector and pushed back into position with bent needle nose pliers.


Carefully remove the fuel rail and disconnect the fuel line. Lay it to the side, out of the way, until the task is completed.


Remove the (10) 8mm intake manifold bolts. The rear two bolts on the intake will not come out of the intake after loosening them. Make sure they are unthreaded fully and be sure to pull them upward, away from the cylinder heads, as the intake manifold is lifted off the engine.


Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the booster as opposed to rear of the intake. It may be easier to remove the intake manifold with the hose still attached to the intake manifold, rather than trying to remove it from the rear of the engine. With the brake booster hose disconnected, remove the intake manifold and hose.


As you can see, the top side of this engine could use some TLC. Carefully insert clean rags into each port and use a vacuum to clean up the large debris. Next, use mineral spirits to remove any remaining debris.


Here is the culprit situated close to the firewall.


Use a deep /16” socket to remove the oil pressure sensor and replace it with a new sensor. This sensor is not the typical tapered pipe thread that was used for all the other GM engines past. A metric straight thread is used with an aluminum sealing ring for proper sensor sealing to the engine. inch pounds of torque is all that is required for proper sealing.


Be sure to replace all intake manifold gaskets prior to reinstalling the manifold. Use the aid of a pick to remove them from their machined retaining groove. Remove all residual oil in the sealing grooves with brake cleaner or mineral spirits before installing the new seals.


The foam seal is used to limit the amount of debris that builds up under the intake manifold; most intake manifold gasket sets include them as part of the kit.


When it comes time to install the manifold, the most aggravating part is dealing with the plastic vacuum line that connects to the rear of the intake manifold. If GM had made the tube inches longer, the task would be much easier. I make this tube assembly from 5/32 vacuum hose, two hard plastic vacuum connectors, and two soft rubber vacuum connectors to lengthen the tube assembly, for a much easier intake manifold installation. The straight end connects to the existing vacuum tube and the 90 degree end connects to the intake manifold.


Story and photos courtesy Chris Petris


Sours: https://tech.corvettecentral.com//11/c5-oil-pressure-sending-unit-replacement/
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The rear main seal is a crucial part of the oil and engine involved with the inner workings of your vehicle. Without this working correctly, the transmission won’t run smoothly, and your engine will falter. Amade of either rubber of silicone, this main seal is crucial in keeping the liquid where it should be, and typically requires a replacement to be fixed when getting damaged The rear main seal replacement cost is usually between $ and $, with labor costs estimating between $$ of the total.

Auto Repairs Are EXPENSIVE


What Is A Rear Main Seal?


The rear main seal within your car has the job of keeping the oil inside of the rear of the engine. This is where the crankshaft connects with the transmission. The crankshaft converts linear energy into rotational energy, letting the car drive forward. 


The crankshaft is a rotating shaft that is in charge of converting reciprocating motion into rotational motion. The crankshaft is the main feature of the engine system which converts the linear energy into rotational energy, allowing the car’s wheels to propel forward. The pistons in the engine are all attached to the crank, allowing it to connect to the flywheel and propel the car forwards.


The rear main seal works in tandem with the crankshaft and the transmission to ensure that the oil is kept inside of the engine, and doesn’t leak onto the other inner parts of the car. The transmission fluid is vital to your car’s ability to run, so the rear main seal is imperative. The rear main seal replacement cost can be affected by any damage done to the transmission or the crankshaft, which is why it is imperative to fix your rear main seal and keep your oil levels at a healthy balance so that it doesn’t affect the lifespan of your vehicle.


What Is Done During A Rear Main Seal Replacement?


To determine where the oil leak is coming from in your car, the mechanic will have to place a dye into the oil. This oil shows up under the UV light to see where the rear main seal leak is coming from. Once the issue is diagnosed, the mechanic can then determine where the leak is originating from to estimate the rear main seal replacement cost.


The mechanic still has to take out the transmission and the flywheel so he can efficiently access the rear main seal and the leak. If the seals are worn, this can cause the transmission fluid to leak. The housing for the seal is then removed, and the surfaces on the sides will be cleaned and maintained to get off any debris and sludge. The new seal is then put in place, and the transmission and the other inner parts of the engine are replaced inside.


Benefits Of Rear Main Seal Replacement


There are many reasons why you must get your rear main seal replaced to cut down on repair costs in other parts of your vehicle. Although you don’t need to get it fixed right away, the sooner you fix the rear main seal, the sooner you are going to have a high-functioning vehicle that won’t cause any future problems. You will be able to protect your engine, gears, and other parts from wearing out due to overuse. These parts will wear out prematurely if you don’t get the leak taken care of like the camshaft deteriorating. 


Also, you will protect your vehicle from the leaking oil, which can cause damage and corrosion to inside parts. Leaking oil can cause further damage to the engine, making the rear main seal replacement cost higher and more crucial to maintaining the longevity of your vehicle. 


Lastly, you won’t have to monitor your oil levels closely. If you maintain the lifespan of the rear main seal and get it replaced, you won’t be driving around and wondering when you need to top up your car. 


When To Get Rear Main Seal Replacement?


Although getting your rear main seal replaced is crucial to fixing your car, you can drive with your seal malfunctioning. However, the oil will consistently leak out of your car, and you will need to top up the oil much more often than if the seal had an air-tight fit. If you drive with low oil, you can easily damage the camshaft and the other parts that need oil to act as a lubricant, prevent wear and tear. 


Oil Leaks Cause Significant Damage


Oil leaks can cause further damage to the components of your car, causing them to wear down quickly. The oil can degrade the quality of the belts, hoses, and engine parts that need a lubricant to function. You need to make sure that your car’s engine is operating at a peak level, which requires you to prevent any oil leaks. You can determine if you have an oil leak by visible puddles under your car, smoke coming from the engine, dashboard oil light is on, and your engine overheating. 


Fire Hazards


Also, oil leaks can create very dangerous fire hazards. Driving with a leaking engine leads to highly-flammable circumstances. If your engine ignites unexpectedly, that is a dangerous accident that can harm multiple people. If your car experiences a fire, the leaking oil will greatly exacerbate the problem.


Environmental Harm


Lastly, oil leaks cause environmental harm. Motor oil is dangerous to the environment, and leaking oil that is draining onto the road can harm the surrounding areas. Forms of wildlife will be harmed when they come in contact with oil. 


All of these aforementioned reasons are why it is very imperative to replace your rear main seal when needed, to reduce the after-effects of an oil leak and to reduce the rear main seal replacement cost. 


What Affects The Price Of The Rear Main Seal Replacement Cost?


First, you need to know that the cost of replacing the rear main seal is going to be different depending on the car make and model, the mileage driven, the current condition, and the oil levels. The rear main seal for a car can cost less than $50, so you might be wondering why it costs hundreds to replace the rear main seal. The main portion of the cost that you will be charged at a mechanic’s auto body shape is due to the substantial amount of labor that it takes to replace the seal, and potentially the gaskets, seals, and other components.


Labor Costs


Unfortunately, the labor costs must be applied to fix your vehicle. Replacing a rear main seal is not a difficult job that requires a lot of hours. The rear main seal replacement cost is high due to the process of the mechanic removing the transmission from the motor, requiring the removal of the motor, and the mechanic needs to take care around the accessories, wires, and houses that need to be avoided or labeled. Removing components that are this large within your vehicle generally require expensive equipment, jacking up the price of the rear main seal replacement cost. 


Other Components To Be Replaced


When you replace a rear main seal, there might be other components of your vehicle that require replacing. For example, the oil pan generally needed to be removed. The oil pan removal requires the mechanic to install a new gasket. A degraded gasket is the most common cause of oil leaks. Additionally, you might choose to replace your front crank seal or the clutch, saving you labor costs in the future since your mechanic is already there and has done the hard work. 


Damage To Additional Parts Due To Leaks


Furthermore, the oil leaks always leave a puddle of liquid underneath your car, which can cause damage to the wires and sensors within your vehicle. Be sure to determine if the rear main seal replacement cost is worth it for you. It might be best for you to sell your car to a reputable company and save some money for your next vehicle


Is It Worth It For You?


After you have an estimate of the rear main seal replacement cost, this is when you decide if you want to spend this amount of money on your vehicle. Is your car in good shape, and is it worth it for the price? Driving with a rear main seal leak can be dangerous, since it leads to a low oil level in very little time. The low oil levels can severely harm your engine, causing a more expensive replacement and repair in the future. 


You Can Cut The Price Of The Rear Main Seal Replacement Cost By D.I.Y.


If you feel like you can fix the rear main seal without taking your vehicle to the mechanic, then we have a few steps you can follow in order to reduce the rear main seal replacement cost and get your car up and running again. 





After jacking your car up with a floor jack, you need to disconnect the battery. When you remove the transmission, you need to remove the starter during this process. Make sure no damage has been done to the starter &#; the average starter replacement cost ranges from $$ To avoid short-circuiting and any electrical problems, you should disconnect the battery’s negative cable. 



  • Remove the Exhaust System



To create enough room for the removal of the transmission, you need to tip the engine at a downward angle so that you can safely remove the transmission. If the exhaust system is in the way of the transmission, then the exhaust will also need to be partially removed &#; or completely, in some cases. 





Whether your car is front-wheel or rear-wheel-drive, you will have to remove the driveshaft or CV axle to allow for enough room for the transmission to get through. The automatic or stick shift will have to be removed for the clearance, which requires you to remove the driveshaft bolts, flange, checking the U joints, reinstalling the driveshaft, and reinstalling the bolts after the transmission is taken out. 





Next up, you need to remove the transmission. It doesn’t matter if the transmission is automatic or stick shift &#; it needs to come out. Be sure that the transmission doesn’t need any work, like a fluid flush or solenoid replacement. The major difference between these two is that the automatic will have two cooler lines running up through the radiator. These two lines need to be undone using a wrench, and the torque converter will need to be taken off from the flex plate. 


Remove the torque converter bolts one at a time using the ⅜ inch drive socket and ratchet. After you remove a bolt, turn the crankshaft in the normal direction. This will continue until the next bolt appears, where you can repeat the same process. 



  • Remove The Flywheel or Flexplate



If your car has a standard transmission, you will have a clutch and flywheel. These two parts need to be removed from the vehicle before replacing the rear main seal. A car with automatic transmission needs to have the flexplate removed &#; congratulations, it is easier to unbolt this mechanism.



  • Remove The Rear Main Seal Bolts



After you have cleared room for the transmission and removed the unnecessary parts, you are now getting to the rear main seal. The anatomy of the rear main seal consists of a cylindrical metal piece in the middle of the seal &#; this is the crankshaft. The smaller piece in the center of the crankshaft is a pilot bearing, included on only rear-wheel-drive manual cars. 


Use a large screwdriver to remove the engine plate and access the rear main seal housing. You might now find oil pan bolts going through the oil pan and into the rear main seal’s housing. Removes these bolts. 


The seal housing will have bolts holding the housing to the rear of the engine block. Remove these bolts by turning them counterclockwise. Now, you can remove the entire seal housing. Use a large screwdriver to pry the housing off of the engine block. 



  • Remove The Rear Main Crankshaft Seal



Sometimes, the rear main crankshaft seal can get stuck. You need to remove the seal using a gentle prying technique. Now, remove the rear main seal by hand from the hub.



  • Match The New Rear Crankshaft Seal



If you are planning on replacing the old rear main seal with a new one, you need to match the new choice to the old unit, ensuring they match inside. 





Use a gasket scraper to remove the old gasket material from the seal housing. After the cleaning is done, you can place the seal in the housing. Evenly hammer the seal into place. Once the seal is installed, apply a thin layer of sealant. 



  • Install the Rear Main Seal



Apply a little bit of engine oil over the crankshaft hub before replacing the seal. Push the seal housing into place, reposition the block and oil pan bolts, and tighten the bolts. Finish by tightening the oil pan bolts. Use a small punch and hammer to install the retainer into place. 


If you are short on money and don’t want to pay for a mechanic’s work, you can try your luck t replacing the rear main seal yourself in order to cut costs. 


What If I Don’t Have Money For The Replacement But I Can’t Do It Myself?


If you don’t know how to perform the above steps to replace the rear main seal, you might not want to pay for the amount of money in an expensive rear main seal replacement cost. In this case, bringing your car to a reputable location to obtain a fair quote is your best bet. Check out CashCarsBuyer to sell your junk car and earn some extra money to put towards a new and safe vehicle! 


Categories BlogSours: https://www.cashcarsbuyer.com/rear-main-seal-replacement-cost/

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Seal main c5 rear corvette

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C5 Corvette Z06 - Rear Main Cover and Rear Main Seal Install

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