5w 20 oil honda civic

5w 20 oil honda civic DEFAULT

Is a 5w-20 instead of 0w-20 synthetic? is it safe?

jasonandre

jasonandre

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Viscosity

Viscosity (a fluid's resistance to flow) is rated at 0° F (represented by the number preceding the "W" [for Winter]) and at 212° F (represented by the second number in the viscosity designation). So 10W-30 oil has less viscosity when cold and hot than does 20W-50. Motor oil thins as it heats and thickens as it cools. So, with the right additives to help it resist thinning too much, an oil can be rated for one viscosity when cold, another when hot. The more resistant it is to thinning, the higher the second number (10W-40 versus 10W-30, for example) and that's good. Within reason, thicker oil generally seals better and maintains a better film of lubrication between moving parts.

At the low-temperature end, oil has to be resistant to thickening so that it flows more easily to all the moving parts in your engine. Also, if the oil is too thick the engine requires more energy to turn the crankshaft, which is partly submerged in a bath of oil. Excessive thickness can make it harder to start the engine, which reduces fuel economy. A 5W oil is typically what's recommended for winter use. However, synthetic oils can be formulated to flow even more easily when cold, so they are able to pass tests that meet the 0W rating.

Once the engine is running, the oil heats up. The second number in the viscosity rating--the "40" in 10W-40, for example--tells you that the oil will stay thicker at high temperatures than one with a lower second number--the "30" in 10W-30, for example. What's really important is that you use the oil viscosity your car's owner's manual recommends.


What does that all mean? The point is that it all depends on where you live. Using something other than the recommended is possible, but I'd recommend discussing it with your mechanic before you choose something different.
Sours: https://9thcivic.com/forum/threads/is-a-5w-20-instead-of-0w-20-synthetic-is-it-safe.5255/

 

Old08-21-2016, 10:27 AM
 

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car n00b here

8th gen honda civic. manual says 5w20 conventional oil
went to NTB to get an oil change. they put 5w30 synthetic blend. so is my car okay?

i googled 5w30 in a 5w20, so i understand the difference now. majority of sites on google say it's okay.
also, i'm not sure what a "synthetic blend" is. it is not a full synthetic so again not sure what it is

is my car okay?

//EDIT: ~90k miles and i live in TX so hot weather


Last edited by unknown00; 08-21-2016 at 11:44 AM..

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Old08-21-2016, 10:40 AM
 

Location: San Antonio, TX USA

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Yes. Its perfectly fine.

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Old08-21-2016, 10:49 AM
 

Location: Floribama

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Your owners manual will tell you what alternative grades can be used, probably "with slightly reduced fuel economy". My Sonata calls for 5w-20, but I have always used 5w-30 due to our hot climate.

A 'synthetic blend' is just a mix of conventional and synthetic, it gives some of the benefits of synthetic but with a cheaper price.

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Old08-21-2016, 11:02 AM
 

Location: Wasilla, AK

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If you live in a very hot climate, 5W-30 is fine. If you live up north, I'd run 5W-20, as the owner's manual says. I always run full synthetic in my vehicles.

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Old08-21-2016, 11:47 AM
 

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With TX heat, you're fine. I'd still contact NTB and voice my displeasure over them using the wrong oil.

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Old08-21-2016, 12:50 PM
 

Location: Texas

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Like everything else, it seems the old habits and beliefs never want to die. If you remember anything from your high school science classes, a thinner liquid will absorb and release heat faster. It works the same way with oil. Your grandfather used a thicker oil when towing due to fuel dilution from the then crappy carbs that literally dumped gas into the oil and thinning it. That issue died when fuel injection became the norm on all cars. You don't use a thicker oil for heat these days considering most of the oils out there carry the Ford spec on the bottle. The Ford spec calls for double length testing of the oil for high heat deposits. That means the oil is subjected to 16 hours of 304F heat and it's not allowed to shift out of its respective viscosity range and the allowable high heat deposits are half of API requirements. So heat for an API oil is pretty much irrelevant these days as your engine isn't going to last long at those temps and live. FWIW, there are no more full conventional oils that meets current API SN requirements. They all are blends of some kind. A conventional will not meet the SN requirement. Most of the synthetics out there are of a Group III base oil and most will actually be a blend of Gp III and Gp II or even GpI. None of the synthetic base oils support the additive package so just know that there is no "full" synthetic oils. Those claiming to be are usually those that are now calling the Gp II base oils as a synthetic. By definition, they are correct in claiming a Gp II is a synthetic as it does not appear in nature but it's stretching the truth by a lot and deceptive.
So will a 5w-30 hurt an engine speced for a 5w-20? No. Most Xw-30 oils are an Energy Conserving oil. That means the viscosity is close to be a 20 anyway. While we buy motor oil by the SAE viscosity, that's not what the industry uses. Normally the viscosity is by the Kinematic Scale which is a lot broader. On the Kinematic scale, a 20 fluid has a range of 5.60 to 9.29 centistokes. A 30 has a range of 9.30 to 12.49 centistokes. Most of the 5w-20 oils will be close to the thick end of the range(9.29) while the Energy Conserving 30s will be at the thin end(9.30). High mileage Xw-30 oils will be close to the thick end(12.49). So there's only a small difference in "thickness" of a 5w-20 and a 5w-30 EC oil at temp.

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Old08-21-2016, 01:32 PM
 

Location: Vallejo

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Trapper's post basically. You'll be fine with 5w-30 conventional or synthetic or blend. You'll see a slight decrease in gas mileage but given the cost of 5w-20 you're just buying more expensive oil to use a bit less gas so it's just really a tradeoff. The recommendation against 5w-20 synthetic comes from the combination of viscosity and lubricity and 5w-20 synthetic tending to make its way past the seals and into the cylinder. From engine to engine they can be well within tolerance but one may end up burning oil while another doesn't. It's the same reason synthetic often isn't recommended until the valve rings on a new engine set although these days most engines tend to be broken in on the line before being installed. While you're less likely using 5w-30 synethetic blend to have any issue with oil consumption, I'd still keep an eye on it. If you find the oil consumption is an issue, just go back to either 5w-20 or 5w-30 conventional. You do want to make sure it's EC (energy conserving) oil but almost everything is. I wouldn't particularly worry about a shop putting in non-EC oil. It's tough to find and tends to be more expensive. Really the only people who want non-EC oil are motorcyclists where we have wet clutches that are immersed in the motor oil. The EC oils aren't an issue for the engine but they can result in the clutch slipping. If you're changing your own oil, it's something to be aware of although even then 90% of what is on the shelf is EC.

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Old08-21-2016, 03:28 PM
 

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Quote:

Originally Posted by TrapperLView Post

None of the synthetic base oils support the additive package so just know that there is no "full" synthetic oils. Those claiming to be are usually those that are now calling the Gp II base oils as a synthetic. By definition, they are correct in claiming a Gp II is a synthetic as it does not appear in nature but it's stretching the truth by a lot and deceptive.

Yes, there are still full synthetic oils. All Amsoil viscosities are Group 4, and some Mobil 1 are Group 4 (15w-50 Euro for example) as well. I believe Pennzoil still makes a group 4 oil as well, but that may have changed.
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Old08-21-2016, 03:34 PM
 

Location: Behind You!

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Not gonna hurt anything.

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Old08-21-2016, 05:18 PM
 

Location: Corona the I.E.

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It's a Honda no worries friend. Even in a Chevy it would be ok.

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May 25th, 2012 12:05 am
CCorbu[OP]
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May 25th, 2012 12:05 am

Oil for Honda Civic (0W20 vs 5W20)

My 2007 Civic 1.8 L is due for an oil change soon and I am thinking about putting in 0W20. I will not be driving much this year so most likely this oil change will last me well until next spring/summer so I was thinking about filling up with Mobil 1 0W20 to help the engine during the cold starts in the winter.
The manual calls for 5W20 and I am running Mobil 1 5W20 right now, but the new Civic which runs the same engine comes with a 0W20 recommendation from Honda.
So should I switch ?
May 25th, 2012 2:04 am
Mark77
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May 25th, 2012 2:04 am

0W20 is better than 5W20.

Yes you should switch, although the 0W20 fluid probably will cost you more than 5W-20 because a 0W-20 oil, with current technology, has to be formulated as a 100% synthetic, while 5W-20 fluids can be fomulated as synthetic blends (hence cheaper).
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May 25th, 2012 2:16 am
packardbell
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May 25th, 2012 2:16 am

i would just use factory specs of 5W20 unless you are tracking or pushing the car.
makes no economic sense to put 0W20 if you drive like a granny. :cheesygri
May 25th, 2012 2:18 am
XtremeModder
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May 25th, 2012 2:18 am

I'll never understand why people use anything other than the recommended oil, it's like the guy at my work, 92 integra, puts synthetic in then wonders why there are oil leaks all over the place...
May 25th, 2012 2:20 am
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May 25th, 2012 2:20 am

XtremeModder wrote: ↑I'll never understand why people use anything other than the recommended oil, it's like the guy at my work, 92 integra, puts synthetic in then wonders why there are oil leaks all over the place...

In my case, 0W-30 didn't even exist as a viscosity grade when my car was manufactured. Yet, based on its technical characteristics, its a superior oil. I use very long drain intervals (50,000kms or more between oil changes), so I want the best stuff money can buy.

As for oil leaks, those occur independant of the oil. Synthetic causing leaks is largely a myth from the past. I'd be surprised if there was any car built 20-years ago that didn't suffer from oil leaks, unless it underwent complete component overhauls.
TodayHello wrote: ↑...The Banks are smarter than you - they have floors full of people whose job it is to read Mark77 posts...
May 25th, 2012 3:21 am
packardbell
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May 25th, 2012 3:21 am

Mark77 wrote: ↑In my case, 0W-30 didn't even exist as a viscosity grade when my car was manufactured. Yet, based on its technical characteristics, its a superior oil. I use very long drain intervals (50,000kms or more between oil changes), so I want the best stuff money can buy.

As for oil leaks, those occur independant of the oil. Synthetic causing leaks is largely a myth from the past. I'd be surprised if there was any car built 20-years ago that didn't suffer from oil leaks, unless it underwent complete component overhauls.

Yes i agree that 0W20 or 0W30 is a superior grade oil compared the the 5W20 and 5W30. Even though the oil you are using is better I would find that 50,000 kms to be a too long an interval to change any oil. Manufacturers specify the oil change interval for a reason and you going that far I do not believe the oil you use will hold up.

oil leaks happen from various reasons but mostly due to age, heat and cold cycles and vibration so it is not all because of the oil you are using.
May 25th, 2012 6:39 am
thrifthunter
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May 25th, 2012 6:39 am

Mark77 wrote: ↑I use very long drain intervals (50,000kms or more between oil changes),

Why?
May 25th, 2012 6:42 am
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May 25th, 2012 6:42 am


Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.
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May 25th, 2012 8:09 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:09 am

Mark77 wrote: ↑Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.
I assume you use an extended interval oil filter given your 50,000 km oil change intervals ?

How often do you change the oil filter of the course of the 50,000 km interval ?
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May 25th, 2012 8:13 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:13 am

Mark77 wrote: ↑Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.

Yeah and my uncle has no problems drinking a dozen beer everyday for the past 20 years either, but I am sure we both know how that is likely to end..
May 25th, 2012 8:13 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:13 am

poedua wrote: ↑I assume you use an extended interval oil filter given your 50,000 km oil change intervals ?
Nope. Just Wix's or Fram's.
How often do you change the oil filter of the course of the 50,000 km interval ?

At roughly 25k. Don't know if its necessary, but I do it anyways.
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May 25th, 2012 8:14 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:14 am

thrifthunter wrote: ↑Yeah and my uncle has no problems drinking a dozen beer everyday for the past 20 years either, but I am sure we both know how that is likely to end..

If your uncle is 80 years old, and his liver function tests come back 100%, would you say a dozen beer a day habit is a problem?
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May 25th, 2012 8:17 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:17 am

Mark77 wrote: ↑Nope. Just Wix's or Fram's.

At roughly 25k. Don't know if its necessary, but I do it anyways.
As far as I know, your standard WIX or MANN or an OEM oil filter aren't designed to go to 25,000 km. That sort of 25,000 km interval usually requires an extended service filter - such as the extended service AMSOIL filter for example.

Even AMSOIL recommends changing at the OEM recommended interval or every 12,000 km, whichever is longer, when using AMSOIL ( Group 4 - 100% ) synthetic motor oil and a ' non-Amsoil ' filter like WIX or an OEM oil filter.
" The placebo effect is the most powerful supplement of all "
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" The best training in the world can't overcome a lousy diet "
TRAIN HARD !!!!
May 25th, 2012 8:18 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:18 am

poedua wrote: ↑I assume you use an extended interval oil filter given your 50,000 km oil change intervals ?

How often do you change the oil filter of the course of the 50,000 km interval ?
I would think no filter lasts 50,000 kms.
May 25th, 2012 8:19 am
poedua
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May 25th, 2012 8:19 am

Mark77 wrote: ↑Why not? Car has no problem with it, and I don't have to hassle myself with waste oil disposal. And its sort of my personal science experiment. So far, I've run two intervals of such. Between intervals I partially dissassembled the engine for unrelated-to-oil repairs and no sludge or buildup whatsoever was observed.

What make / model and year of vehicle where you " dissassembled the engine " are we talking here ?

How many kms on the engine ?
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" The best training in the world can't overcome a lousy diet "
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May 25th, 2012 8:20 am
thrifthunter
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May 25th, 2012 8:20 am

Mark77 wrote: ↑If your uncle is 80 years old, and his liver function tests come back 100%, would you say a dozen beer a day habit is a problem?

He is nowhere near 80 and I don't know that he has had liver function tests.
May 25th, 2012 8:24 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:24 am

poedua wrote: ↑What make / model and year of vehicle where you " dissassembled the engine " are we talking here ?
GM 3.1L V6, "LH0" (ie: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_60-Degree_V6_engine#LH0). "dissassembly" involved removing the lower intake manifold assembly to replace a leaking gasket (a fairly routine job on those engines).

Engine was built in 26th week of 1992. Its basically one of the fore-runners to the 3100/3400 engines that appeared in basically most mid-sized GM cars in the past 20 years.

How many kms on the engine ?

203,000km right now, started at 100,000km.
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May 25th, 2012 8:25 am
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May 25th, 2012 8:25 am

XtremeModder wrote: ↑I'll never understand why people use anything other than the recommended oil, it's like the guy at my work, 92 integra, puts synthetic in then wonders why there are oil leaks all over the place...
+1
packardbell wrote: ↑Yes i agree that 0W20 or 0W30 is a superior grade oil compared the the 5W20 and 5W30. Even though the oil you are using is better I would find that 50,000 kms to be a too long an interval to change any oil. Manufacturers specify the oil change interval for a reason and you going that far I do not believe the oil you use will hold up.

oil leaks happen from various reasons but mostly due to age, heat and cold cycles and vibration so it is not all because of the oil you are using.
So much misinformation.
0W-20, 0W-30 or 3W-20 are all only SAE viscosity indexes of the lubricant. The viscosity of 0W20 synthetic is the same as that of 0W20 petroleum based lubricant. These numbers only indicate the "slipperiness" of the lubricant.
Usage, or what the oil is designed withstand is the API (American Petroleum Institute) grade. The most current for gasoline engines is SN.
http://www.api.org/certification-progra ... 20210.ashx
There is so much misunderstanding and misinformation about oil it is not funny anymore.
http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
May 25th, 2012 8:27 am
Mark77
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May 25th, 2012 8:27 am

poedua wrote: ↑As far as I know, your standard WIX or MANN or an OEM oil filter aren't designed to go to 25,000 km. That sort of 25,000 km interval usually requires an extended service filter - such as the extended service AMSOIL filter for example.
My owners manual says 15,000 *miles* on a filter. Any filter. So 25k km's is pretty much the OEM's recommendation.

Even AMSOIL recommends changing at the OEM recommended interval or every 12,000 km, whichever is longer, when using AMSOIL ( Group 4 - 100% ) synthetic motor oil and a ' non-Amsoil ' filter like WIX or an OEM oil filter.

Amsoil and their MLM junkys say a lot of stuff. Just remember, they're in business too, to sell extra filters and their overpriced oils as well.
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May 25th, 2012 8:32 am
Mark77
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May 25th, 2012 8:32 am

Pete_Coach wrote: ↑ 0W-20, 0W-30 or 3W-20 are all only SAE viscosity indexes of the lubricant. The viscosity of 0W20 synthetic is the same as that of 0W20 petroleum based lubricant. These numbers only indicate the "slipperiness" of the lubricant.
It is practically impossible to formulate a 0W-20 oil without using synthetic fluids. The viscosity index (ie: slope of the viscosity versus temperature curve) is far flatter for the synthetic fluids than the petroleum derived fluids, and this is a vital characteristic of the sort of basestocks used to formulate a 0W-20 oil.
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Sours: https://forums.redflagdeals.com/oil-honda-civic-0w20-vs-5w20-1180791/
2006 to 2011 Honda Civic Oil Change and Reset Oil Light

Can I use 5W30 instead of 5w20 in my Honda Civic?

You will notice that any temp that 5W20 can handle can also be handled be 5W30. And 5W30 can handle hotter temps than 5W20. Well, the shop should stand behind it’s work. If the mechanic made a mistake using the wrong viscosity oil they should replace it with the correct oil.

What oil does Honda Civic use?

List of Recommended Engine Oils for 2020 Honda Vehicles

ModelRecommended Engine Oil
2020 Honda Civic Hatchback0W-20
2020 Honda Civic Coupe0W-20
2020 Honda Civic Si Coupe0W-20
2020 Honda Civic Type R0W-20

Which car oil lasts the longest?

Longer lifespan than conventional oil. The best full synthetic motor oil has a considerably longer lifespan than synthetic blends or conventional oil. In some cases, full synthetic oil has a change interval of up to 15,000 miles, compared to 3,000 miles for conventional motor oil.

How often should I change Mobil 1 oil?

every 10,000 miles

Can I change oil once a year?

For those who drive only 6,000 miles or less per year, Calkins said manufacturers typically recommend changing the oil once a year. Moisture and other contaminants can build up in the oil, especially with frequent cold starts and short trips, so owners shouldn’t let it go more than a year.

When should a brand new car get its first oil change 2019?

1500 miles

Should I change oil before or after long trip?

If your current oil has already been in the vehicle for several thousand miles and is dirty brown on the dipstick, though, you’re better off having the oil change performed before the trip.

How long should you leave break in oil in a new engine?

In general, run the engine under light-to-moderate loads for about 500 miles. Again, that duration is a rule of thumb, but break in shouldn’t exceed 1,000 miles. Then, drain the break-in oil, install the synthetic oil of your choice and commence driving.

What happens if you don’t break your engine?

“It’s likely that nothing would happen [if you don’t follow the guidelines perfectly], but following the break-in guidelines and proper maintenance are the best ways to ensure the longevity of a vehicle,” he says. “Within the break-in period, the engine may be more susceptible to damage if it is abused.”

Sours: https://www.mvorganizing.org/can-i-use-5w30-instead-of-5w20-in-my-honda-civic/

Honda civic 20 oil 5w

Like the real one: More. Than Goshka's. And so soft and pliable.

2006 to 2011 Honda Civic Oil Change and Reset Oil Light

Nikolai Vasilyevich began to sniff intermittently, and the chair creaked under him. My rag in a bucket of water, Valentina slightly spread her legs, and Nikolai Vasilyevich saw not only the daughter-in-law's round buttocks covered with a thin translucent fabric, but also the. Protruding fold of panties in her crotch. With every movement of her daughter-in-law, her bottom, covered with elastic fabric, danced before her father-in-law's eyes.

- And you, Nikolai Vasilyevich, are going to drive us out of the house, to deprive Sasha of his inheritance, to register Genka.

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