Stair skirt board alternative

Stair skirt board alternative DEFAULT

Recently I noticed a set of stairs at a friend’s house that looked busy – he used his regular baseboard trim to trim the entire staircase. I wondered if there was a better option and realized that while completing a set of stairs on your own is challenging, dressing them up and making them look finished with a stair skirt board is much easier.

A skirt board on your stairs is a long, unbroken piece of trim just for your stairs. It either stands alone against the wall along the closed-end of your stairs, or you can run your regular baseboard along the top of it to create an unbroken line of trim from floor to floor. Either way, a stair skirt board negates the need for individually trimming around each step.

In this article, we’ll take a look at the variety of ways you can use a stair skirt on your stairs. There are myriad methods for skirting a set of stairs, which means there are also a ton of different looks you can achieve with a stair skirt. We’ll also investigate alternatives to stair skirts for those looking for a non-traditional finished stair appearance.

Stair Skirt Board

Contents (Jump to Topic)

What is a Stair Skirt Board?

A stair skirt board is an unbroken piece of trim for your stairs. If you have stairs with a closed-end – against a wall – then you more than likely have a stair skirt board. Stairs with two closed ends will have a stair skirt board on both walls.

The reason stair skirts exist is to simplify the finished look of a set of stairs. Rather than using your regular baseboard trim around each stair, it is easier to run a single piece of material diagonal along the length of the stairs. By doing so, you can connect the trim at the top of your stairs to the bottom.

Stair skirt boards are used wherever a set of stairs has a side abutting a wall. They are used to create a finished look in a home that features baseboards, unifying the different levels of a house.

Finally, a stair skirt board shouldn’t be confused with a stair apron – they are not the same. An apron is the trim piece beneath a balustrade and is horizontal to the flooring. A skirt board is specifically for stairs.

Do I Need a Skirt Board on Stairs?

You do not need a skirt board on stairs. If you don’t have baseboards in your house, then you don’t need skirting for your stairs. You might want stair skirting if you have baseboards in your house, as skirting will serve to connect, esthetically, baseboards on either ends of the step.

An instance when you would want a skirt board will be if your home has the same baseboard trim throughout the house. It would stand to reason that you’d want that same trim along the length of your stairs, too.

In that case, you would have a skirt board terminating at the top landing and allow your trim to run on top of the skirt board, down to the bottom of the stairs. You could also make your skirt board higher and use the skirt as the trim, connecting to the trim at the top and bottom of your stairs.

If you don’t have baseboard trim in your house, but want a finished look on the closed end of your stairs, then you’ll still want a skirt board. Trimming out each stair is time-consuming and will look extremely busy. One long, unbroken board is much more visually appealing.

When Not to Use Stair Skirt Boards

Floating Stairs

There are several instances when stair skirt boards just don’t make sense.

  • Floating steps. Skirt boards only work when there is a wall to attach them to, so a set of floating steps is not able to accommodate a skirting board unless they are attached to the closed end of a wall.
  • Your house doesn’t have trim. If you don’t use baseboard trim in your house, then it might look strange to skirt your stairs. A nice finished hardwood stair tread can also look nice against finished drywall, so it is possible to keep the aesthetics of a set of stairs without a skirt board.
  • If your stairs cannot be removed, then consider avoiding installing a skirting board yourself unless you are very confident in your carpentry skills. Fitting a skirt board over an existing set of stairs requires decent craftsmanship. Not sure? Hire a contractor who specializes in stairs – they’ll have one done for you in less than an hour.

Stair Skirt Board Size

If you are ready to embark on a stair skirt board, your next question will be what size lumber to use.

Typical stair skirtboard size is 9-1/2” wide and a minimum of 5/8″ thick. The dimensions should be no less than 9-1/2” wide because the skirt must sit at least 1-1/2” above the nosing of the stairs. The length depends on how long the staircase is, and the thickness also depends on your existing baseboard thickness – but never less than 5/8”.

You can also run your baseboard trim over the skirt, which will create a nice, finished look if both the trim and skirt are the same thickness.

Most large home reno stores will have MDF, hardwood, and other types of softwood with thicknesses of ⅝” and greater in stock of common lengths – i.e.8, 10, or 12’. If you need an extra-long piece, then you’ll have to contact a lumberyard.

If opting for softwood lumber as your stair skirting, it will likely be pine or another softwood species that is commonly found in the framing lumber that is local to your area.

Stair Skirt Board Material

Stair skirting

Stair skirt board material should be ½” to ¾” MDF, hardwood, or softwood. MDF and softwood are ideal for painting, while hardwood can be finished to match hardwood stair treads. Other pressed board, such as plywood, also works when the veneer is used on the exposed edge.

If you do not plan to paint your board and want it to match your hardwood treads, then you’ll have to contact a local lumberyard. Some home reno stores offer oak project pieces, but it’s doubtful you’ll find a piece of hardwood skirting that will be long enough for your stairs. And once you do find one, expect to pay a pretty penny for it.

You can also use plywood as stair skirting. This is useful if you need a narrower width for your skirting, such as 5/8” or 1/2″. Plywood resembles a pine board after a few coats of paint and is easy to cut and manipulate. Even very rough plywood can be sanded lightly and painted for a finished look.

One of the benefits of plywood for stair skirting is that you can purchase birch, oak, or maple plywood and stain it instead of painting. In that way, you can match the finish of certain stair treads to achieve a different look.

Last, consider using an MDF board for stair skirting. It is a type of fiberboard that is already white and comes in a variety of dimensions. It has finished edges, making it better suited for stair skirting than plywood since it is already white and doesn’t need a piece of trim on top of it to hide the unfinished thickness of the skirt.

Stair skirt board alternative

MDF is easy to cut and is widely available at most big box home reno stores. However, it may be difficult to find a wide piece of MDF board for stair skirting, so you may have to order it and wait.

Where Do I Attach a Stair Skirt Board?

Attach the stair skirt board before the stairs are fully installed. This is by far the easiest and most accurate way to install a stair skirt board. Why? Because you don’t have to cut a piece of skirting around stair nosing and multiple rises and runs. Rather, you simply measure, cut each end, and nail to the finished wall.

Since a skirt is a finish piece, once you measure and cut your stair skirt, you use a finishing nailer or finish nails to attach the skirting board into the studs behind the drywall or paneling behind the skirt. Then you can fully install your stairs.

You can install your stairs first, then put the skirt board on after. This is more difficult for several reasons. First, you’ll have to precisely measure the rise, run and stair nosing cuts for each stair. Then, you’ll have to make the cuts – and a simple skill saw won’t be enough. You’ll need a router or have a steady hand with a coping saw to make it look nice.

While a skilled carpenter can install a skirt board after stairs have been installed with relative ease, it is far easier to install the skirt board first, and then the stairs. If the stairs are unfinished, see if you can detach them from the wall far enough to slide a skirt board behind. Otherwise, you’ll have to fit the skirt board around the stairs, which is harder.

Many people will find that removing their existing stairs to install a skirting board isn’t an option, in which case you’ll have to attach it over the existing stairs. If you are not comfortable doing this job yourself, hire a carpenter who will do it for you in the morning.

How Do I Attach a Stair Skirt Board

Installing a stair skirt board before the stairs are installed is the recommended method for installation. It is the easiest and you avoid making a ton of rise/run cuts to fit over the stairs. It also ensures that your stairs will fit flush up against the skirt without any gaps, resulting in a perfect finish every time.

To install a skirt board before the stairs, follow these steps:

  1. Having your stairs already assembled helps when installing a skirt board. This will allow for more accurate measurement when installing the skirting board. You can even install your stairs fully as long as you leave a 3/4” gap between the stairs and wall, which makes for an even easier install.
    However, that isn’t always an option for stairs with two closed ends. At the very least, you can measure and outline the stair risers and treads against your wall, which will allow you to install  skirt boards accurately.
  2. Once you’ve outlined your steps along your wall – which will be covered up by the skirt board – you can go ahead and attach your 1x material to the wall.
    Place the skirtboard against the wall so that the bottom is against the outer edge of each stair tread. Ensure that you have at least 4” protruding on either end. Fasten lightly with two finish nails – don’t nail them all the way in, as you’ll be removing them later.
  3. Make a horizontal line from the top of the bottom tread across your skirt then remove the skirt from the wall.
  4. Cut the bottom line using a circular saw.
  5. Place the skirt against the wall, with the cut end flush against the floor. Re-attach it lightly with two finish nails just as before. The skirt board should be about 1 ½” above the tip of each stair nosing, vertically.
  6. The last two cuts depend on the height of your baseboard trim. The skirt projecting above your top step should be cut vertically to match the height of your existing trim if that is the look you’d like.
    If you want your trim to go over the top of the skirting board, then you’ll cut the top of your skirt board to be flush with the top of the top tread or landing.
  7. Cut the bottom of your skirt board to achieve the desired look and height, depending on how you want to transition your trim from the skirting board to the landing.

Stair Skirt Board Alternative

Skirt board trim

If you don’t prefer the look of a stair skirt, or you have a non-traditional stairway, then you have a handful of other options.

No Skirting

You can go with no skirting at all. If you have nice, finished hardwood treads, for example, you may be able to get away with no trim if there isn’t a discernible gap between the stairs and the wall.

If you opt for no skirting, you run the risk of an awkward transition between your existing home baseboard trim on either end of the stairs.

Quarter Round

Quarter round trim is an option instead of using trim or a skirt to finish your stairs. It has a far less busy look than using trim to frame around each step and is easy to work with.

Placing the quarter round around the entire profile of the stairs is difficult as you’d have to make awkward cuts around the tread nosing. Instead, place the quarter round under the tread lip down the riser and on the tread.

Baseboard Trim

Baseboard trim around each step is another common alternative to a stair skirt. Some may disapprove of the busy look it creates, although if you have plain baseboard trim, it may not stand out as much as a decorative trim.

Decorative Molding or Trim

If stairs already in place, use a 1/2” decorative molding or trim several inches above steps and then apply a different paint over the molding and space below it. This allows you to avoid cutting around existing stairs while giving the appearance of a skirt, but without an actual skirtboard.

In that way, you are using the paint and narrow molding piece to fool the viewer into the appearance of a stair skirt.

Conclusion

A stair skirt is a finish piece of carpentry. That means you don’t want to mess it up because you’ll be seeing the flaws in your work for many years to come, along with anyone else who spends time in your house.

Therefore, if you aren’t able to remove your existing stairs and aren’t confident in your ability to cut a skirt around your stairs, then hire a carpenter. If you can remove the existing stairs or are doing a new build, then put the skirt on before the stairs. You’ll achieve a fantastic, gap-free look for your stairs.

If you have any other stair skirting alternatives or differing versions about how to install a stair skirt, then I’d love to hear them. Drop me a line or comment below!

Sours: https://weekendbuilds.com/stair-skirt-board/

When I first read Norm’s article on skirt scribing, four thoughts immediately came to mind:

1) He and I both learned the technique from the same instructor, Don Zepp.
2) Norm’s explanation of the process was spot on.
3) I had a bunch of photos of a skirt board I had installed that I should share with others.
4) I felt exactly like Norm did: Don Zepp was absolutely the best instructor I’ve ever had the good fortune of learning from.

Most carpenters never even consider scribing a skirt board to a finished set of stairs. I mean, after all, it’d be foolish to think that you could make so many intricate cuts and expect to end up with a flawless fit.

The truth is that the process is quite simple, and it can be done without ever touching a tape measure…really.

As you’ll see, the photos I took 20 years ago match up almost perfectly with the illustrations in Norm’s article. I’ve included my comments and observations on the nuances involved with this scribing process below.

After tacking the rough skirt board on top of the treads…
0100-1

(Note: Click any image to enlarge)

0200-1…you’ll notice that the lower edge of the skirt doesn’t touch the edge of each tread.

It’s been my observation that no matter how fussy you are with the riser/tread layout and installation, there will always be some minor discrepancies along the flight. That’s why this scribing technique works so well—it accommodates any irregularities found in the final positioning of the treads and risers.

I start by transferring the top height of the tread onto a 3/8 x 3/4 oak scribe stick that’s a couple of inches longer than the tread depth.0300-1
Then I carefully drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the brad, and drive a brad through the stick. I like to sharpen the brad point for a near razor-like scribe line.0400-1

Next, I scribe the level lines onto the skirt board, starting on the finish floor, and working my way up the flight of stairs. It’s important to keep the stick plumb. I typically make one light pass to “set” the initial line, and then follow up with a couple more passes to really engrave the line in the skirt board.

Making a thin, deep scribe line goes a long way towards preventing tear out when you start making the cuts. I darkened the scribes lines using a pencil to make them more visible in the photos.0501-1
0502-1The line in the photo extending from the top of the tread onto the skirt board is referencing the tread below the line. The scribe line has no relationship to the tread it extends from. In this photo, the scribe line I’m working on is referencing the finish floor—not the first tread.
When I’ve marked all the level (tread) scribe lines, I mark a reference line along the top edge of the skirt so I can reposition the skirt accurately—at precisely the same angle—when it’s time to scribe the risers.0504-1
0505-1After pulling the skirt off the wall, I cut the bottom of the skirt at the lowest scribe line, and tack it back up on the wall, using the reference line to position the skirt at the original angle.
Next, I remove the brad from my scribe stick, and I transfer the nosing length of the tread onto the scribe stick.0600-1
0601-1Then I drill another pilot hole at the mark, drive the brad through the stick at the new location, and start scribing the nosing edge and the riser faces onto the skirt board.
0602-10603-1

After I’ve scribed the risers and nosings, I pull the skirt off the wall and I set it on some horses. Using a scrap piece of tread material, I connect the dots between the riser, nosing, and tread for the entire flight of stairs. When all the steps are marked out, I break out the saw…

0700-10710-1
…and I carefully cut just to the scribe line.0720-1

When the scribe lines are cut sharp and deep, and you’re careful not to cross the scribe line with the saw, there’s virtually no tear-out. I use a slight back-cut angle of about 4 to 5 degrees—this helps ensure a really tight fit when the skirt is driven into place. While the skirt is on the horses, I also cut the ends to match the baseboard at top and bottom.

0801-1I set the skirt in place a few inches shy of its final position, and slide the skirt as far as I can into its final position to confirm all looks right.
Once I’m satisfied that it’s a good fit, I use a block to drive the skirt home for the final fit.0802-1

0803-2

If you’re attempting to scribe a skirt for the first time, here’s my best advice: get a piece of scrap that will cover two or three steps, run through the process I describe, and confirm you get a good fit. You’ll only need to practice it once—it really is that simple.

A word about craftsmanship…

Learning your craft in the world of trades is a unique proposition. Most of the learning takes place on the job site, with veteran tradespeople parsing out nuggets of wisdom and dazzling co-workers with an elegant approach that includes quality, ease, and speed.

Reference resources abound (TiC, the Journal of Light Construction, WOODWEB.com—the list goes on and on) and are also great ways to learn.

And there are hands-on demonstrations, like the Katz Roadshow and JLC LIVE.

I was fortunate to have attended a three-year, post-high school trade/tech school, the Williamson Free School of Mechanical Trades. My three-year trade degree was in masonry, but while I was there, I was always keeping an eye on the carpentry shop. With Don Zepp at the helm, the building trade students at the school considered it the place to be.

After I graduated, I asked Don Zepp if I could sit in on his theory classes. Thankfully, he welcomed me. So in some ways, I double dipped my trade education. I’ve been fortunate to have spent time around some of the best tradespeople and craftsmen in the business.

The key to learning, regardless of the venue, is to always pay attention.

And keep in mind: while it’s true that you learn from your mistakes, in my experience, it’s way more productive to learn by observing the other guy’s mistakes.

• • •

AUTHOR BIO

IMG_0115_2Carl Hagstrom graduated from Williamson Trade School in 1974, and he has been involved in residential construction-related activities ever since.

In 1982, he and his wife, Bev, moved to Montrose, PA, where he continued to run his own construction business.

Carl started writing for the Journal of Light Construction in the late 80s, and is now a contributing editor at the magazine. In 1994, he became certified as a professional building designer member of the American Institute of Building Design, and in the same year he started WOODWEB.com with his business partner, Michael Poster.

Acknowledgements:

Carl would like to give a tip of the hat to Todd Murdock for putting together the illustrations for Norm Yeager’s article—it’s uncanny how Todd’s illustrations mirror the photos Carl took 20 years ago.

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Sours: https://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2013/07/12/scribing-stair-skirt-boards-revisited/
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I recently had maple hardwood floors and stairs installed replacing carpet. I was out of town during the installation. When I returned, I was not pleased with the unsightly gap between the stairs and the wallboard. It occurred to me only after seeing this that the problem is no stair skirting. Though I do take credit for not specifying a skirt be added, I am desperate to find a solution. The installer and my contractor are telling me that it would not be feasible to add a skirt at this point and didn't think it could be done without removing the bullnose and tread, very expensive. Any ideas on what I could do to remedy the gap? The installer recommended putty in the gap but the painter is now telling me that putty would give the appearance of paint on the top of the stair. I'm literally sick about this mistake! Any ideas as to what can be done to remedy this dilemma?
Sours: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/1008890/hardwood-stairs-installed-without-skirt
HOW TO REFINISH STAIRS pt. 1

DIY Stair Trim – How to Add a Faux Stair Skirt

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Adding your own DIY stair trim is easier than you many think. Follow this tutorial to add a “faux” stair skirt board to your steps.

Adding your own DIY stair trim is easier than you many think. Follow this tutorial to add a "faux" stair skirt board to your steps.

DIY Stair Trim – My stairs look 100%  better with this “faux” stair skirt board added, since adding traditional trim wasn’t an option.

When we first moved into our new house, I knew the first thing that needed to be addressed was the steps leading upstairs. We had the upstairs floors professionally re-finished, leaving just the stairs for me to handle. Aside from painting the stairs green, I knew this issue of baseboard trim or a “stair skirting board” needed to be addressed.

The Problem: These Stairs took a Beating

stair trim before

As you can see, the walls around the stairs were in pretty rough shape. We just didn’t have it in our budget to rip out these stairs and re-do everything. So, I had to get creative. For less than $50 in supplies, I was able to add my own DIY trim and fake the look of a stair skirt board.

This post contains some affiliate links for your convenience. Click here to read my full disclosure policy.

The Supplies: What I Used for this Stair Trim

**Please read the full tutorial below. I used extra supplies since I was also patching the plaster along the stairs. You may not need everything on this list!**

Tutorial: How I Rehabbed these Stairs and Added a Faux Stair Skirt

1 – Patch where needed

The key here is that you need the wall right above your stairs to be perfectly smooth. In my case, this was a tall order. This involved using drywall tape, patch (putty), and an electric sander (wear a mask!!!) to smooth out the walls. Here we are during the patching process:

 

2 – Cut trim and secure

Once you have a smooth wall surface and have filled any gaps between the stairs and the wall with caulk, then you can get started with the trim. I purchased this ornamental moulding from Home Depot. I used about three pieces, so this part of the project only set me back about $15.

Use a hand saw and miter box to cut the moulding at an appropriate angle to match the trim at the top/bottom of your stairs. In my case, I was working with a door frame at the bottom, so I cut a simple 45-degree angle.

Faux Stair Skirt Board with Trim

Since the moulding is so light, you can just tape it right to the wall. Then go back with your brad nailer, and secure with small brads every 12-18 inches.

If any of the nails stick out, carefully set them with a nail setting tool. Then use wood filler to fill in the nail holes. Lightly sand, and you’re ready for paint.

3 – Don’t forget the details

Don’t forget to cut the moulding at the right angle to meet with whatever trim or door frame you may have at the top/bottom of the stairs.

DIY Easy Stair Trim

** I also used DAP latex caulk along the edge of all of the stairs, since I had significant cracks and gaps.

4 – Prime and Paint

Tape off a line above the moulding. Then prime and paint the moulding along with the wall below the moulding. Once everything is painted the same color, if will give the effect of being a solid piece of solid wood trim.

DIY Faux Stair Skirt Board

This DIY stair trim project was part of a larger project – Re-Finishing and Painting our Stairs. It all turned out so much better than I expected with our measly $100 budget, and you can read more about that here.

Magnolia Green by Joanna Gaines Paint - DIY Painted Stairs

How to fake the look of stair trim - DIY Faux Stair Skirt Board

Sours: https://thecrazycraftlady.com/diy-stair-trim/

Skirt alternative stair board

They do add a complication in how they meet the baseboards at the top and bottom. A finished skirt board on a flight of stairs is one of those tasks in finish carpentry that remains in prominent view, always open to critique. It looked unfinished even with some small trim at the landings. We proceeded to prime and paint the MDF. Thanks. So I'm just posting it here because I bet it will help other people with this question in the future. I'm literally sick about this mistake! Skirt board/Kick board. A large covered entry will add value to the house as well - so a pretty safe investment. A good remodeler can upgrade the front entry by adding a roof that is decorative and practical. One thing to consider is, if you do white risers, they will show scuff marks, certainly more than wood risers. Use as deck trim, stair raisers and deck skirts for a long-lasting, beautifully finished look. You may be missing out on what gives a home real meaning, Sure, they hide the dust bunnies. it's also difficult to blindly sense where the edge of the tread is without looking down - which is likely to cause a fall if carrying a load of laundry etc. Measure the over-all run as CVG said. Measure at right angles to the board for the depth of the skirt board to use. We then proceeded to nail the boards in place and then we caulked. I never try to steer anyone to wood in those areas because I dont want to be the one blamed if there is a moisture problem. It is possible that they could have been moved no more than an inch to the right. The installer and my contractor are telling me that it would not be feasible to add a skirt at this point and didn't think it could be done without removing the bullnose and tread, very expensive. 8 ft lengths will be shipped as 7'11". Any ideas on what I could do to remedy the gap? What is the name of the brand of the hardwood that you installed? Staircase skirt boards are installed during the construction or added as a trim feature later. Wood flooring in high water areas really boils down to dedication in keeping the floor dry. This product is good on one face, sanded and ready to be cut to fit. smith stair systems skirting trim in the skirting trim section of Lowes.com By continuing to browse this site or use this app, I agree the Houzz group may use cookies and similar technologies to improve its products and services, serve me relevant content and to personalise my experience. The current landscaping is liability, not an asset. 48 in. Skirtboards are typically edge glued with color and grain matched woods. Forgive my ignorance but what is a skirt board? I recently had maple hardwood floors and stairs installed replacing carpet. If you want something meatier, here's an example. Just because someones a contractor means nothing, over 1/2 them are only as good as their subs and that isn't saying much if anything at all. I'm replacing my carpeted stairs with hardwood treads. d. Hold the combination square against the skirt board and trace its opposite edge on the cardboard. However, turning the table does not work as your space is not quite large enough. you should also consider material thickness and look very close at code compliance with your new run and rise. Stain or paint the treads a SUPER dark colour...almost black. Enough to give an even reveal of the skirt around the stairs, and still leave enough room for the baseboard to make the end corner. The post and railing are done correctly. Browse Stair Part Pro's selection of stair building parts for your next project. Buy retro treads, stair treads, risers, and other stair parts for your staircase project, direct from the manufacturer. x 11-1/2 in. Here's how to counter the differences, We give you the details on cost, installation, wood varieties and more to help you pick the right hardwood flooring, Gleaming wood floors are a thing of beauty. I would have them remove the treads and install the skirt. templating strips and hot-glued them together, tacking them to the wall in a few spots (2). I'm reluctant to introduce a scribed skirting board but is only 'get out of jail' solution I currently have. The installer recommended putty in the gap but the painter is now telling me that putty would give the appearance of paint on the top of the stair. But when you know all the options, bed skirts can rack up major style points too, Straight, diagonal, chevron, parquet and more. Thank you, I was hoping for more height. Unfinished and prefinished stair parts are available in several stain colors available online. About the best solution at this point is base on the landing and fill the gaps along the wall on the treads & risers (if the photo is as bad as it gets). You can do "what you want" - but realize that it would take an INSANELY TALENTED Interior Designer (paid oodles of money) to get these three things to work. They feel nice on the feet but are very difficult to maintain traction on. Shop l.j. For example, because saw-toothed skirt boards have a large percentage of the board notched out at the open treads, the look is not as heavy. Available in paintgrade or staingrade for many wood types. I am a hardwood installer and refinisher. In the picture below, you can see a gap around the stair nose. If neither of those are present, then it can most likely be sanded and refinished. Drywall can vary quite a bit making it difficult to get a tight fit. The buffet looks much nicer in front of the niches. I suggest you look at some pictures and determine which you prefer. Stair skirt choices include those made from red oak, white oak, poplar or maple. I decided to do all wood, not so much for that reason, but because in my house, the stairs are quite central to the downstairs area. Thunder White Granite Counter, share photos and advice, please, Where do you get study rolling ladders from with brass fixtures. Would the moulding run to the end of the bull nose and how would it be finished on the cut edge? Therefore, you may find it more aesthetically pleasing to use a narrower floor level skirt board rather than a full 12” wide that matches the stair skirtboards. For interior use only, our pine tread features a clean, uniform look that is clear of most knots and imperfections commonly found in solid pine treads. You might also note that if the post moved an inch to the right it wouldn't line up with the edge of the outside frame of the step and that instead the balusters would end up on the edge of that line. The room skirting currently stops at the landing and looks terrible. ets and other ornamental attachments can also be added for aesthetic appeal. x 11-1/2 in. Although a carpet is a popular choice for covering the stairs, it can also wear out easily and can look dull after sometime. See which floor design is best for your space, Irregular tile heights can mar the look of your bathroom. There goes the mimilist look! For me I say, Paint the risers white. Here's what you need to know, Learn about softwoods, tropical hardwoods, composites and more for decks, including pros, cons and costs, http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2011/04/16/scribing-skirt-boards/, 4 Easy Ways to Renew Your Bathroom Without Remodeling, How to Make Your House a Haven Without Changing a Thing. Unfinished Pine Stair Tread Made of two pine re-saw layers, the Surewood-LNL Made of two pine re-saw layers, the Surewood-LNL 48 in. Change the color of the siding from white to something closer to the brick color. Then I cut a bunch of 1/8-in. Rosend2012 - what was your final sloution? ISO advice on waterproof engineered hardwood flooring. I cut 3⁄4 in. Stair skirts must perfectly line up with the staircase stringers, so that both start and end at the proper angles and locations. Stair skirts are often scribed into place (. They do add a complication in how they meet the baseboards at the top and bottom. Since MDF is a bit porous, priming is a must. There is some skill required installing them but the same is true of the treads and risers. Note that this is highly dependent on what function the stairs play and the overall finishes in the house. We are in the process of a new build and are going on for a wood landing, and a painted riser type staircase and want to make sure I understand it all.. Currently there is no contrast between the floor, the chairs and the table. They should be complimentary to each other but not the same. The current stairs had carpet on them so the gap didn't matter. The current skirt board was installed before the treads, so the treads butt up against the skirt board. I would definitely recommend a rug for both spaces to define them. Ideally, the skirtboard should be 12 inches longer than the stringer. Though I do take credit for not specifying a skirt be added, I am desperate to find a solution. On the other hand, you might want to consider painting the risers to match the dark color of your railing. Over 9100 different stair parts in dozens of wood species and sizes. The skirtboard typically goes in prior to treads risers, the rough in stairs And stringers will be held off the drywall to accomadate the skirt sliding between drywall and stringers. … Lastly, I do agree that wood look tile would be a mistake, if you choose to go tile, I would aim for contrast with the wood, not an attempt to match it. I would consider myself more expert in refinishing than installing. Due to FedEx Size Req. A skirt board is installed to the finished wall (sheet rock, paneling, etc.) Choosing the location of the post and railing are more complicated than many people might think which is why on a carpentry scale of 1 to 10 stair railings are a 9. Take your bathroom from drab to fab without getting out the sledgehammer or racking up lots of charges, Establish zones in an open layout without relying on typical barriers, using changes in material, level, color and more, Hung up on 'perfect' aesthetics? The good thing is that we didn’t have too many of those. skirt could fit tight to the stairs, as shown in the drawing (1). This chapter will illustrate the principles of installing the skirts, treads and risers to the foundation of your staircase. At StairSupplies, you’ll find the best selection of trim molding for your customized staircase — from shoe molding to stair nosing to skirt boards.Each part is made from superior lumber, helping you maintain quality throughout your home. This board will slide between the wall and stairs and have a straight edge on top. Have identical issue, particularly at top of stair where stair lands into the room. Buy a 1x4 as long as the skirt will be, lay it on the nosings where the skirt will go. brazilian koa / tigerwood floors, refinish and update color- help! Plus, I felt that with wood risers the overall effect would lean more contemporary/modern than with wood treads and painted risers. Perhaps something light and patterned. If a wall begins after a short way the railing may need to be located where it is to make that transition look good. some preper glue some use padding etc. What's the Right Wood Floor Installation for You? My contractor 'fixed' it by caulking the gaps, not bad and now that it's finished, hardly noticeable. also plan ahead and glue and screw your existing rough in stairs now and preemptively deal with squeaks NOW to eliminate squeaks after the fact. The Skirtboard stair part which is also called stair stringer connects the stair tread to the riser and is an integral part to any long lasting stairway creation. You might not like that look either. Usually 1/2" x … My 2 pennies - or nickels if you're in Canada where there isn't any more pennies. the far right side of the skirt board, find 7" on the inside of the square, and put the 7" mark at the right side top corner of the skirt. I think that sealing the flooring on site is definitely better, although not as durable as the finishes now used on prefinished flooring. It will also break the two-layer look by interrupting the horizontal line. 7 Alternatives to Carpets on Stairs That are Really Breathtaking. I would run the base unto the stair skirt ending it with a return just short of the inside corner of the stair skirt. I agree with several of the pros. I think quarter rounds will look too skimpy! White balustrade and stringers is my suggestion. So from this distance, use a level to mark a straight line vertically near the bottom end of the skirt board. Hardwoods finished on site, pre-finished hardwoods or tile that looks like wood (Walker Zanger). Ask your contractor to explain why they were placed where they are and if you aren't satisfied with the response call another staircase professional out to take a look. Help with color for staircase -balusters, skirtboard, newel... Open concept dining/living room advice needed. If you do choose to go with carpet on your stairs, stay away from plush carpets with thick underlay. Solar & Alternative Energy ... Take a piece of temporary floor protection or some other semi-rigid writable surface and hold it on top of the stair tread and against one of the skirt boards. This optional piece mounts against the wall on a staircase accenting the look. of nosing from each side with an oscillating multitool so that the 3/4-in. You are definitely making progress.

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How to scribe skirt boards into any Stairway flawlessly!!

Did I hurt you. - It hurts my behavior. - I won't be like that anymore.

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While he sleeps. - the witch continued in a grave voice. But he will wake up when Svartshi commands.



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