Is the rubicon worth it

Is the rubicon worth it DEFAULT

Jeep Wrangler Rubicon vs. Sport: Here's Which Trim Is Right For You

By Harry Green

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Generally, the Sport is best for purists on a budget while the Rubicon is more capable and a more sophisticated daily driver.

As of 2020,Jeep’sWrangler continues to maintain its iconic look, yet comes in an impressive 13 trims including the limited editions. This article will examine two of the non-limited edition trims; Sport is the base package for the Wrangler, while the Rubicon is the top-of-the-line trim for regular models.

Generally, the Sport is best for purists on a budget while the Rubicon is more capable and a more sophisticated daily driver.

RELATED: Reviewing The 2020 Jeep Wrangler: 15 Things To Know Before You Buy It

Sport Specs And Similarities With The Rubicon

The Wrangler offers a variety of powerplant options. The 3.6L V6 is the standard powerplant and makes 285hp and 260lb-ft of torque. The optional turbocharged 2L straight-4 with 270hp and 295lb-ft is a no-cost option. Lastly, the V6 Turbo Diesel makes 260hp and 442 lb-ft. Both vehicles have the V6 as standard, the straight-4 available, and V6 Turbo Diesel available for $4,000 extra.

Only the gasoline V6 comes with a zero-cost six-speed manual transmission; you have to pay $2750 extra if you want an 8-speed automatic. If you’re buying the straight-4 engine, you don’t have the option of the manual, so although the engine is a no-cost option you will need to pay $1500 extra for the transmission. The same goes for the turbo-diesel – the engine itself costs $4000 but the 8-speed automatic is the only transmission available and will run you up an additional $2000. You can keep track of these costs on Jeep’s build and price page; the option costs are the same between both trims.

Given that they’re Wranglers, there’s not much cosmetically to immediately differentiate them other than the Rubicon decals, the wheels, and the shape of the bumper. Both are available in two-door and four-door variants, including the traditional convertible versions, and can have the doors removed. The warranty is also identical for each vehicle. Given that there’s nearly a $10K difference between these two, it’s well worth knowing what the Rubicon’s got over the Sport.

Rubicon Differences

There are a number of notable off-roading advantages to the Rubicon - which has earned a Trail Rated badge. The upscale Wrangler offers a different 4WD system, the Rock-Track, which boasts a higher crawl ratio (4:1 instead of the default Command-Trac 2.72:1) as well as higher ride height, larger tires, electronic locking differentials and sway bar disconnects, and a pair of locking Dana 44 axles.

The Rubicon also comes with a 4:10 rear axle ratio standard for the V6 and straight-4 models – the diesel still requires you to use a 3:73 rear axle. This is a higher rear axle ratio than the Sport’s 3.45 overall ratio, giving it better towing capacity but poorer fuel economy (in principle, anyway – Jeep rates the fuel economy and towing capacity of the two models equally). The Rubicon also comes with larger tires than the Sport.

Most of the Rubicon’s other differences come in the form of convenience – remote door locks, darker window tint, garage door transmitter, illuminated vanity mirrors. Unlike the Sport, the Rubicon comes with climate control, power windows, and power door locks standard. It also comes in more colors.

The Rubicon also offers many more packages than the Sport. Both have the Trailer-Tow and Heavy-Duty Electrical Group packages available. The Rubicon offers packages that enhance the vehicle’s bumpers, frontal lighting, cold-weather comfort, audio, and collision safety. The $1,195 LED Lighting Group package may be worth it for peace of mind, considering the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration rated the Wrangler’s headlights as Poor.

If you’re a hardcore Jeep purist you might not feel like you need a Rubicon. It’s vastly more expensive, significantly heavier, and offers no advantage over the Sport in terms of horsepower or torque. The Sport doesn’t come with power windows, power door locks or climate control – but that might not matter if you’ve removed the doors. Besides, if you just wanted those items you could get the Sport S trim which only costs $3k instead of $10k over the Sport.

However, if you’ve got the money, you should opt for the Rubicon over the Sport. It’s more capable off-road and the capacity for creature comforts and safety is a lot higher, making it much easier to use on long-haul highway drives. It also comes with (slightly) more safety features as standard. The bottom line is this, if you have a family and/or a trailer (and money), the Rubicon is probably better. Your kids will thank you for not making them live out their childhood rattling around in a swelteringly hot and/or freezing cold bone-stock non-crossover whenever you have to drive out from the suburbs, go skiing, or visit your relatives in Tampa.

RELATED: Jeep Wrangler VS Land Rover: 16 Facts To Decide Which Is Better

Here's Which Is Best For You

The market more or less works the way it’s supposed to with these two models; in this case, more money gets you the more capable product. Jeeps also keep their value well, so extra expenditure isn't necessarily putting you in a long-term hole. On the whole, the Rubicon appears to be the superior machine – more capable, more comfortable. That said if you’re buying a Jeep to make a fun doorless buggy to take a few friends a little off the beaten path, or cruising the coastal roads around 30A while you tuck into your Hokulia shaved ice, the Sport is up to the task.

Sources: Autoblog, Cars.com, Jeep, US News, World Report

NEXT:Ford Bronco VS Jeep Wrangler: Does Ford Have What It Takes?

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About The Author
Harry Green (51 Articles Published)

Harry Green is a lifelong auto enthusiast layman taking the opportunity to learn and inform through writing. A graduate of Yale University's African Studies program, he aims to bring his intensive research skills to bear in an entirely new field. He has had a book and movie review published by Providence web magazine and 40 album reviews written for Metal Temple. When not writing, he draws, watches anime and listens to metal, synthwave and the occasional K-pop banger.

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Sours: https://www.hotcars.com/jeep-wrangler-rubicon-vs-sport-which-trim-right-for-you/

06lj said:

I have never understood why the Rubicons sell for the prices they do. Good marketing I guess. I've had 2 different rubicons over the years. If you like rock crawling the Rubicon package is nice. On overland type trails, however, I found the 241's gearing to be to low which forced me to be constantly shifting (both were manuals so I can't speak for an auto). I never wheeled in mud or sand but I assume it would be the same issue. On my second one I had the factory lockers replaced with ARB which I found to be better than stock. The 4.10 gears were fine with 31's but after uprading to 33's they definitely needed to be replaced. The front axle also shares a lot of parts with the dana 30. I'm not debating that the Rubicon isn't worth more than a TJ. I certainly enjoyed it when it came time for resale. I just feel that the market has the value over inflated for what you actually get. For $5k-$6k I could build a better package with parts that aren't at a minimum 12 years old. Of course not everyone enjoys, has the time or ability to build their own Jeep so for them maybe its worth the money. I almost seem to enjoy the building more than the driving. These are all just my opinions and should be taken as such. If somebody is truly debating a purchase I can only recommend the do their research and get the Jeep that is best for them.

Click to expand...

I agree with the opinions in this post.

As per @tomtaylz, yes, resale is better, but getting into a Rubicon costs more to begin with.

I think a Sport or Sahara with a Dana 44 in the rear, 6-speed is the best bang for your buck starting point for a build. You can get these for a good deal and then you can do it yourself just the way you want it. Your crawl ratio will be very awesome if you regear appropriate for tire size

 

Sours: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/rubicon-worth-the-extra-money.12722/
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There’s always a few different Jeep Wrangler trims to choose between. You might see Sport or Sahara put on the side of the hood. However, the trim worth paying the most attention to is Rubicon. Rubicon means that it is a particular Jeep model that is the most prepared for going off-roading.

Why You Should Get The Rubicon 

The Rubicon is a Wrangler option that was introduced in 2003 to give Jeepers a few range of different options. 

While the base trim Jeep Wrangler is still equipped for a fun and sporty ride on and off the road, the Rubicon is ready to hit mountain trails and much more. The Jeep Wrangler Rubicon is built for the people prepared to explore the Jeep’s potential to go anywhere. 

  • A person testing driving a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon at an auto show

You can customize your Jeep Wrangler until it matches or outperforms the Rubicon, but the Rubicon is already equipped with more off-roading capabilities. Therefore, it will save you a lot of time. 

However, that does mean that the Jeep Rubicon is a little more expensive. The 2020 Rubicon starts around $38k, while the base model starts around $28k. So, what exactly do you get for spending more on the Rubicon? 

What’s Included With The Rubicon 

The Rubicon is built with more robust materials to give it more strength and power for going down the beaten path. For example, it comes with off-roading tires for all terrains while the Jeep Wrangler comes with styled 17” tires. 

Also, the Rubicon comes with a separate performance suspension to increase comfort and stability on the trails. 

The performance suspension includes a Dana 44 axle in the front while the Sahara has a Dana 30 axle. 

The Sahara only has conventional locking differentials while the Rubicon has Tru-lock differentials. 

It’s also the only trim option that includes an electronic front sway bar disconnect. This is another feature that comes in handy for increased capability and comfort on the trails. 

It’s exclusive rock rails will protect you and your Rubicon if an accident should occur. Other Jeep’s don’t offer this protection. 

  • orange Jeep Rubicon

As the Rubicon is better outfitted to tackle challenges, it’s the only trim model with the Rock-Trac system 4×4 driving mode. 

This system enhances the Rubicon’s ability to crawl over rocks and other steep inclines without slipping. It’s a better crawler than the Sport and Sahara. 

Rubicon Features 

When you spend more for a Rubicon, you get off-roading upgrades on the exterior with premium upgrades in the interior. 

You will get to wrap your hands around a leather-wrapped steering wheel and premium low backcloth bucket seats for a more comfortable ride. 

There is also a bigger 7” touch screen infotainment center while other options only have a 5” screen. 

The 115-volt auxiliary outlet is another exclusive feature that comes in handy for powering devices while camping or off-roading. 

  • 2020 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon front passenger seats and center console

Other than that, the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon has the same engine and amount of power as other Jeep models. It has the same fuel economy and towing capability as well. 

If you can’t decide on spending more on the Rubicon to have a trail-ready Jeep, you can always save on a different model and outfit it toward your desired specs later. 

Sours: https://www.motorbiscuit.com
How Reliable Is a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon After 50,000 miles? Long-Term 2018 Wrangler Review

Should I Upgrade to a Rubicon from Different Trim Package?

Short answer… If you plan on really taking it off road and putting bigger tires on it, a Rubicon is a wise choice.

Unless you already know exactly why you are considering a Rubicon, you probably don’t need one. However, it may still be the right choice for you.
If you are new to the Jeep world, you may not know just how capable a stock Wrangler Sport is. Every Wrangler is Trail Rated, but what does that even mean? It seems like that badge is on every vehicle Jeep makes. Every new Wrangler is four wheel drive, what makes it Trail Rated. To be considered Trail Rated, a Jeep has to past tests in Water Fording, Maneuverability, Articulation and Ground Clearance.

Jeep Trail Rated Badge, What Does it Mean?

What Makes a Rubicon, a Rubicon?

Here are the main upgrades/features of a Wrangler JL Rubicon…

  • Rubicon Wide Track Dana 44 Axles Front and Rear
  • 4.10 Axle Gear Ratio’s
  • Electronic Lockers Front and Rear
  • Rubicon Rock-Trac 4:1 Transfer Case
  • Electronic Front Sway Bar Disconnect
  • Rubicon Power-Dome Hood
  • Rubicon High-Clearance Fender Flares
  • Rubicon Wheels and 33″ Tires

If you compare a Rubicon to a Sport S, you also get a few more upgrades. These include a bigger alternator, extra tow hooks, Rubicon specific interior trim, etc., but these are not really big enough to sway your choice of trim packages. Is it worth $5,000+? It still depends on what you are going to be doing with your new Wrangler JL.

The Axles, Lockers, Transfer Case and Fenders are the main Reasons to Buy a Rubicon

New Generation Dana 44 Axles, M210 front M220 Rear

Since the Wrangler Rubicon made its debut in 2003, their axles have been sought after by many non-Rubicon Jeep owners looking to upgrade. The main reason, they are strong and have gotten stronger with every generation. The new JL Rubicon axles are no exception. To get technical, the FAD is one weak point, but we can discuss that in another post. People pay over $5,000 for Rubicon “Take-Off” axles. New Dana 44’s can run $10,000 a set, axles which would be considered a worthwhile upgrade can easily run over $15,000 a set.

E-Lockers, Real 4-Wheel Drive at the Flip of a Switch

Wait, aren’t all Wranglers 4 Wheel Drive? Yes, but that just means that all 4 wheels can get power, not that they always get power, or even that they get power when they “should” get it. Without going into a full explanation on how axles work, I’ll just give the the effects, not the cause. In a standard (not locked or limited slip) axle, once a wheel loses traction and starts spinning, the power is sent to that wheel. Obviously, if it is spinning and the other isn’t, it would be better to direct more power to the other (non-spinning) wheel, because it has traction. Limited-slip differentials (LSD) are one solution and they work well, but they do not provide full lock. The only way to have a fully locked axle on a street driven Wrangler is with a selectable locker. These can be electronic, air or cable driven. If you wanted to add lockers to your Jeep Wrangler JL, selectable lockers would run $1,000 to $1,500+ per axle.

Rock-Trac 4:1 Transfer Case

If you plan on any “rock crawling”, consider a Rubicon. If you have ever driven Wranglers, or Jeeps in general, you are probably familiar with “4L.” When engaged, the four wheel drive transfer case gives your transmission a lower set of gears. This is extremely handy off-road, because you have your full set of gears at speeds lower than highway speeds. The Rubicon takes this a step further, almost 50% further, 2.72 to 1 vs. 4 to1!

This gives the Wrangler Rubicon 8-speed automatic a final Crawl Ratio of 77 to 1 with stock 4.10 gears, the 6-speed manual has an 84 to 1! 

Electronic Sway Bar Disconnect

To get the most articulation from your Wrangler, you will want to disconnect your sway bar. When the trail gets really uneven, disconnecting your sway bar will give you an edge and you’ll be more sure-footed at the same time. On the street, the sway bar is trying to keep your frame/body parallel with the axle to prevent too much lean in turns. When the street is flat, this improves handling and decreases body-roll. Off-road, this can have negative consequences. If one side of the trail is lower than the other, the sway bar will still do its job of trying to keep the body parallel with the axle. If the axle is uneven, so is the Jeep. Disconnecting the sway bay gives the suspension freedom to travel independently of the frame/body, which allows greater articulation and keeps the body as level as possible.

Yes, quick sway bar disconnects are fairly inexpensive and usually easy to use. If you have used sway bar disconnects in the past, one of two things have happened, possibly both. You forget to disconnect them, or you remember once they are already covered in mud; or you try to disconnect them and you can’t. They can rust, preventing a “quick” disconnect. I have even seen them installed in a way that prevented the “pin” from being pulled. The Rubicon’s electronic disconnect allows you to do it without leaving the driver’s seat. 

There are aftermarket sway bar options, like the Currie Anti-Rock system, where you don’t need to disconnect anything. If you are already considering one, you likely didn’t need to read this article. If this is the first time you heard of them, keep in mind that while they are great off-road, you do sacrifice some on-road handling/performance because of increased body roll.

The Rubicon’s electronic disconnect isn’t perfect. You have to be on relatively flat ground to use it and it can also get damaged by rocks and/or water. I don’t consider it a major feature or reason to buy a Rubicon, but it is a nice touch.

High Clearance Fenders

You can put 35″ tires on a Rubicon without a lift. Although the suspension sits a bit higher, much of the room for larger tires come from the high-clearance fenders. In general, you can use a 2 inch taller tire on a Rubicon when compared to a similarly equipped a Sport or Sahara. A stock Rubicon can fit 35’s, a stock Sahara or Sport can only fit 33’s. A Rubicon lifted as little as 2 inches, can easily accommodate 37″ tires. A Wrangler Sport, Sahara, etc. with factory fenders, will require at least 3 inches of lift for 37’s. 

Can’t you just lift the vehicle an extra inch to get the clearance?

Even if you plan on a fairly expensive, “complete” lift kit, which addresses all the “lifted-geometry” concerns, a low center of gravity (COG) is preferable. This is why so many people are using fender chop kits or buying aftermarket “high-clearance” fenders. If you plan on changing the fenders anyway, your “take-off” Rubicon fenders can fetch a pretty good price.

This is very important to understand. When you lift a vehicle, the steering and suspension geometry change This changes the way the Jeep drives and “feels” on the road.. Once you go above 2 inches of lift, the negative effects on handling, comfort and overall drivability become apparent. On a Wrangler JL or Gladiator JT, this is when control arms, track bars and high-steer kits start getting discussed.

4.10:1 Gear Ratio (non-392 or Diesel)

If you are planning on 35″ tires, although not be ideal, the Rubicon’s 4.10:1 axle gear ratio is a lot better than 3.45:1 found in base models. If you were re-gearing a non-Rubicon for 35’s, I’d recommend 4.56 gears, but most people with 4.10’s and 35’s are happy. 

If you plan on 37″ or larger tires, 4.10’s are better than 3.45’s, but you will notice loss of power and you won’t see your top gear(s) as much. 

Power Dome Hood

Mainly for looks, the Mopar Power Dome hood was first seen on the 10th Anniversary Rubicon in the 2013 model year. Since then, many “Special Edition” JK Rubicons have been produced with this unique hood, from the Rubicon X, to the Hard Rock and Recon.

Starting with the 2018 JL, all Rubicons come standard with it. It may not be something you would care about if it didn’t come with it, but it is a great looking hood.

Wheels, Tires & Suspension

Even if you plan on lifting it and not using the factory wheels and/or tires, there is still value in them. The factory wheels can be used with tires up to 37″. If you have your heart set on different wheels/tires immediately, “take-off” sets go for well over $1,000 with little or no miles on them. You can even get a hundred bucks for the suspension from a non-Rubicon owner.

Unfortunately, there is not really a market for the parts taken off base model Wranglers.

Would it be Cheaper to Start with a Sport or Sahara?

That Depends… How far are you taking this build?

If you already know that “Tons” and an Atlas Transfer Case are in your future, a Rubicon may not be the most economical place to start. If you don’t know what those are, just forget I mentioned them, I’ll cover those in another post.

If you are new to Jeeps, but would like to do some trails, I would strongly consider a Rubicon. If you have friends with Jeeps ask them about lockers. It’s likely you will be doing trails with them and they would know if you would be better off with lockers from the start.

If you are planning on 37″(or larger) tires and ever plan on taking it off-road, consider a Rubicon. There is always a guy on Facebook with 40″ tires on his Dana 30 Sport axles that wheels hard and never broke a thing, this is not the norm. I’m not saying it didn’t happen, but the odds are against it. 

If you will ever take your Jeep to a place where it might start spinning a wheel, consider a Rubicon. This is for a different reason than lockers, axle strength. Although its is not the only way to break axles, it is certainly one of the most common. When a 100 pound wheel/tire gets spinning, there is a lot of momentum, which increases exponentially with weight. Rubicon axles are considerably stronger than other models, except the Gladiator Mojave. There are even differences between between Rubicon and non-Rubicon Dana 44’s, beside the lockers. 

If you are absolutely positive that you will never take your Jeep anywhere you might get stuck and going with tires 37″ or less, a Sport or Sahara might be a better option, as you will be able to get more creature comforts for the money. I know that is a very generic statement, as it is meant to be. Obviously, you wouldn’t take it somewhere that you know that you will get stuck (unless you have a reason), but that is the point. It’s better to have lockers and not need them, then to need lockers and not have them. Same applies when breaking an axle because of larger tires, you don’t know that you need stronger axles until you actually need them.

Here are a couple things to consider…

Rubicon “Take-Offs” are valuable

The internet is full of fellow Jeepers looking to buy/sell/swap parts. There are Sport owners looking for the extra clearance Rubicon Fenders provide. There are TJ/LJ Owners looking for JL Rubicon Take-Off Wheels & Tires for their rig. The Rubicon Take-Off axles alone can be sold for the $5,000 difference in price. On the other hand, there is no market for non-Rubicon Take-Off Axles or other non-Rubicon parts.

Rubicon’s hold their Re-sale value

Just look at the prices of used Jeeps, especially Rubicon’s. Don’t get me wrong, other models do hold their value, but not always for the same reasons. If you plan on leaving your new Jeep “stock” and not put too many miles on it, it will attract a different type of Jeep buyer in the used market. Just look at the price of an “un-molested”, rust-free,  2003-2006 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon with under 100K miles on it. Now price a 2004-2006 Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon! When someone starts to build a serious project Jeep, they know exactly what they want to start with. If they really want a Rubicon, they’ll pay top dollar for one.

Jeeps can be addictive

From my experience, most Jeeps “grow” during the time of ownership. Two years after it gets a lift and 35 inch tires, 37’s are being considered. They also grow in their skill level. The 37 inch tires are being considered because the trails they are going on are getting harder. 

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The worth it rubicon is

These Are the Pros and Cons of Owning a Jeep Wrangler

What we like and don’t like about our long-term 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon

Jeep Wrangler Full Overview

The MotorTrend Garage is constantly filled with drool-worthy long- and short-termers, but nevertheless our plucky 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon remains one of our more popular fleet regulars. We typically aim to crest 20,000 hard miles by the time our yearlong loans run up, but our Wrangler is within spitting distance of that number with five months left until it departs. Given how much time we've spent in our Jeep, here's a list of things I like and don't like about our Wrangler that I haven't covered in previous updates.

We Like

Looking at it: Design is often what draws a buyer into a showroom, and in that department, the Wrangler is far and away one of the best-looking vehicles on the road (or off it). Even seven months in I still find myself looking back over my shoulder at our firetruck red Jeep after I park it. Its iconic lines are like a greatest hits of Jeep design: Its notched seven-slot grille recalls the CJ, its lighting elements the TJ Wrangler, and its flat fenders and body lines the original military Willys MB and Ford GPW. As a huge fan of simple and functional design, I don't think I'll ever get tired of looking at our Wrangler.

Great interior: Just like the exterior team, Jeep's interior design team hit it out of the park, too. Our Wrangler's interior effectively blends old Jeep styling cues—such as its upright dash and exposed rollbars—with modern conveniences and comforts, such as an 8.4-inch Uconnect infotainment system, power windows, and automatic air conditioning. Furthermore, despite the abuse we've put our Wrangler through so far, its cabin is holding up well. The leather seats show no obvious signs of wear and tear, the switchgear all works perfectly, and the removable hard-top panels have remained leak- and draft-free, even in pouring rain and snow.

How approachably capable it is: This is a bit of a no-brainer, but it's truly shocking how capable our Wrangler is—and while many off-roaders are moving to various electronic off-road modes, the Wrangler proves you don't really need them. Simply engage four-wheel drive with a simple lever, and this Jeep will go just about anywhere. Need more traction? Four low ought to solve your trouble. And if it doesn't, idiot-proof front and rear differential locks and the Rubicon's front anti-roll bar disconnect—which improves articulation and ride quality off-road—will almost certainly do the trick.

We Don't Like

Wildly fluctuating fuel economy: We covered this in our last update, so I'll be brief. Our Wrangler's real-world fuel economy varies wildly based on outside conditions. Due to the Wrangler's un-aerodynamic shape, highway fuel economy has varied widely, from a self-reported 14 mpg average over a tank of fuel on a windy day to about 23 mpg with a tailwind. Although mileage obviously varies, the Jeep's fluctuating fuel economy can make route planning around fuel for long road trips and adventures a bit of a pain. We'll dive further into the Wrangler's observed fuel economy come verdict time.

On-center steering feel: The more I drive our Wrangler, the less enamored I am of its on-center steering feel. With a solid front axle, a slow steering rack, and big, heavy 33-inch off-road tires, the Wrangler has a tendency to subtly wander back and forth in its lane at highway speeds. It makes long highway drives far more draining than they should be, especially if, like me, you're nursing a wrist injury.

Our Wrangler was recalled in September to get a new steering damper installed—designed to combat the highway bump "death wobble" that some customers of 2018 model year JL Wranglers complained of (and an issue our Jeep never experienced)—but the lack of on-center feel nevertheless persists.

Its rear hatch: I'm nitpicking, but I'd love to see Jeep rethink the means of access to the Wrangler's cargo area. Like it has been since at least as far back as the Jeep CJ-7, our Wrangler's cargo area is accessed by pulling the lower door and swinging it out toward the passenger side and then by lifting up the hard top's rear glass. (The process is made more difficult on soft-top Wranglers, as the whole fabric panel needs to be popped off and back on again.) The reasons the rear hatch is designed this way are pretty obvious—it allows Jeep to mount a full-size spare on the door, and it makes it easier to offer both a hard and soft top—but it makes loading groceries, suitcases, and other odds and ends a hassle.

That being said, I'm also not sure I have a better solution. A one-piece rear hatch is off the table as long as the Wrangler continues to offer a soft top, and moving the spare tire would be difficult because, unlike the Gladiator, it wouldn't fit underneath the Wrangler or Wrangler Unlimited, and it'd barely fit in the cargo area. Similarly, a pickup-style swing-down tailgate would be nice, but it'd still likely add an additional step of moving the spare tire to gain access to the cargo area. It seems like Jeep's current solution is the lesser of all evils, even if it does pose a minor inconvenience.

Looks good! More details?

Read more about our long-term 2019 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon:

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How Reliable Is a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon After 50,000 miles? Long-Term 2018 Wrangler Review

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