Metal rods for dog kennel

Metal rods for dog kennel DEFAULT

Kennel Rod Door


Premium Rod Kennel Door

There are many reasons why the TriStar Premium kennel door will provide your facility with the performance you require.

  • 1 ¼” stainless steel tubing is miter cut to create a pleasing aesthetic (Miter-diagonally joined at the corner)
  • Stainless steel rods are welded to the bottom frame so urine, water and bacteria will not get trapped inside
  • Kennel doors swing both in and out to assist with large or aggressive dogs and to allow kennel runs in narrow areas
  • No bottom rail to trip over or trap urine, feces or fur
  • Positive spring loaded latch allows one- handed operation & assures door can’t be pushed open once closed
  • Great for renovating in existing spaces
  • Wall angles to attach doors to block wall included/standard
  • Grill door is made up of ¼” stainless rods that pass through 14ga stainless band, Then tack welded to prevent rattling

Contact us for design assistance at or [email protected].






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How To Build a Custom Dog Kennel

Last Updated:  June 26,

Click above to watch the video

If you&#;re going to have a dog kennel it might as well be a beautiful piece of furniture! I didn&#;t realize finely crafted dog kennels existed until I was shown a picture of a beautifully built kennel and asked if I could create something similar.

This build is a custom piece of fine furniture that is designed for two large dogs. It has two drawers on the outside and the two inside compartments are shelves for electronics with fold down doors.

Building the Face Frame

Start by milling the poplar parts for the face frame. These pieces end up being about 13/16” thick and 1 7/8” wide. The face of the wide poplar boards are flattened at the jointer before putting that face against the fence and jointing the edge. That edge is then placed against the table saw saw fence and the opposite edge ripped parallel.

I decided to cut all of the mortises with the router and I made this jig to keep them consistent. It also makes the job go much quicker. The jig consists of two poplar boards and some scraps to mark the starting and ending point of the router. All of them are glued to a piece of plywood acting as a platform.

Use a dado stack on the table saw and a sled to cut the tenons. Clamping a stop in place on the table saw sled makes the length of the tenons repeatable and consistent across all of the work pieces.

Test the mortis and tenons until you get a good friction fit. They need to be fairly easy to pull apart to allow for glue swelling but tight enough that the joint will stay together when you pick them up.

router jig for cutting mortises
cutting tenons on the table saw

Once all of the pieces are finished, dry fit the whole frame and use a shoulder plane to tune up any joints that fit too tightly.

Clamp each pair of work pieces that will take bars (top and bottom), measuring and drawing their lines at the same time to ensure alignment. Drill all of the holes for the round metal bars at the drill press with a 7/16” bit.

Now, it’s time to work on the metal bars. Use a chop saw to cut them to length and sand the ends at the disc sander to smooth them out.

Remove any oil or grease with mineral spirits to allow the stock to take paint. The bars get several coats of spray paint and clear coat.

drilling holes for the metal bars
cutting metal bars on the chop saw

To fit the side panels, cut a groove into every workpiece that doesn’t get bars, at the table saw. Sneak up on the width of the groove to get a good friction fit.

A piece of poplar, that will become a side panel, is resawn at the bandsaw. This will allow you to make the wood go further and get it to the desired thickness.

Both pieces are run through the planer to make the sides parallel. I milled these panels way too thin and they ended up curling, causing me problems at assembly. I would suggest making the panel about 1/3 the thickness of the frame.

The panels are fit into the grooves of each face frame piece. Because of the bad curling I had to fight with them, but I was ultimately able to get them to fit.

The front and side face frames will be joined with opposing rabbet joints and they are cut at the router. This was the best way to give the frames plenty of edge grain for glue surface. It ended up being very strong.

The back of the side frames gets a wider rabbet to fit the rear ship lap.

The bottom of the kennel will be one piece of plywood. I use the circular saw to cut the bottom to length.

Attaching the Face Frame to the Base

The 3 frames are dry fit and held together with clamps. Dry fitting seems like it takes a bit longer but it ends saving an enormous amount of time by minimizing mistakes.

After laminating the shelves, they were too wide for my planer so I flatten each side with a hand plane.

Then, TIME TO SAND! Thoroughly sand every piece with a random orbit sander, starting with grit and using grit on the second pass.

Take the time to glue up the 3 sides. The order of assembly was really tricky with this project. I had to balance the need to minimize the parts being glued up at the same time with not boxing myself into a corner. I ended up gluing the major sections before gluing them to the base and each other.

The frames are glued and screwed to the bottom piece and to each other. I used about 35 clamps for this part and still needed more.

Use the miter saw to cut each side of the feet at a 20 degree angle.

The feet get glued and screwed to the base in an evenly spread out formation.

assembling the face frame to the base
attaching the feet to the base

After cutting shiplap joints in each back piece, I fit them into the rabbet joints and the back side of the side pieces. They are glued and I shoot brad nails to keep them in place.

At the table saw, tilt the blade and cut 45 degree miters on the trim pieces.

The trim gets attached with glue and a brad nailer.

assembling the shiplap back pieces
attaching the base trim

Painting the Base

Use a spray gun to paint primer on the kennel.

After the first coat of primer thoroughly sand the whole kennel with grit sandpaper on the random orbit sander.

Spray 2 coats of a milk paint. Milk paint is not the greatest liquid to spray with an HVLP. I had to really fiddle with the settings to get a setup that would work. It was slow, but I eventually laid down a nice, even coat.

Building Drawers and Shelves

The main body assembly is finished up by installing the shelf dividers and drawer cleats with pocket screws.

Use the table saw to cut a rabbet joint into each end of the drawer pieces. Rabbets are a great joint that is easy to cut with the right tools.

Cut a slot about 1/2 inch from the bottom of each drawer piece and slide a 1/4” piece of plywood for the bottom. The drawers are assembled with glue and screws.

The drawers are mounted to the drawer slides using this drawer slide Kreg jig.

Trim the drawer face sides with a hand plane, as needed. I like a 1/16” gap all around the drawer front.

To get an even gap all around the drawer face I use playing cards. My preferred method, when I have the room, is to clamp the drawer fronts in place once I have the right spacing and size and then drive two screws in the correct alignment for the eventual drawer handle.

Use this hinge jig to drill the holes for the hinges in the back of the 2 middle drawer faces. This jig makes installing these cup hinges almost foolproof.

The hinges are installed and adjusted.

Use a chisel to cut the mortises in the doors. I don’t have a leg vise, and it was difficult to mount the door in my bench vise. I was able to get it sturdy enough to work on and the chiseling went along without issue.

Holding the doors up to the base, mark the location of the mortises with a marking knife.

attaching the drawers and drawer slides
using playing cards to position and attach the drawer fronts

Building the Top

The top is cut to length with the circular saw and a track saw attachment.

Use enough clamps and braces to keep the top even and flat during glue up. Use hardwood cauls covered in tape to aid in putting even pressure across a wide surface.

Use the random orbit sander to sand the top thoroughly with grit followed by grit using slow, even passes.

Trim the sides on the table saw to even them up.

The edges of the top are rounded over with a trim router.

Spray the base with 3 coats of water based polyurethane. Water borne poly is another liquid that isn’t great to spray with an HVLP. But, it can be done with the right setup.

The top gets 3 coats of oil based polyurethane which is much easier to spray.

Using a forstner bit, cut a shallow hole for the figure 8 fasteners. These fasteners need to have room to swivel back and forth. Attach the top by drilling the screws underneath through the fasteners.

clamping up the top
spraying finish on the top

Usually, larger projects &#; and this one is HUGE &#; are less complicated than smaller, intricate builds. But, a combination of making it up as I went along and all the parts that went into this thing &#; made this a months-long build.

I&#;m happy with the way it turned out and the client is too. I don&#;t think I would ever build another, but it&#;s one of those projects that taught me a lot about solving problems.

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Ultimate Dog Kennel Systems for the home and the professional

Introduction: Houdini Dog Kennel

I built this kennel for my year old German Shepherd Dog, Edge, who has some separation anxiety. Typical crates do not keep him inside, and for his safety he needs to be kept confined. He has a habit of chewing on plastic, and I am fearful for what he may consume during his chew fits one day.

For All following Steps the materials used were: 2"x4" studs, 5/8" plywood (not particle board), Steel Rods in various sizes listed in steps, 1 1/4" construction screws, 2 1/2" construction screws.

Step 1: Door

For the door, precut the following pieces of wood:

2- 27" studs

2- 23" studs

1- 24" x 30" plywood (you will cut out center after mounting)

You will also need the following pieces of hardware:

4- 24" steel Rods

2- 3" corner hinges

1- Stainless Steel locking latch

2- Drop latches

take one 27" stud, this will be your top. Attach both 23" studs square to the ends of the 27" top by clamping to your plywood piece. you will need to leave a 1 13/32" gap on the sides from the edge of the plywood to the edge of the studs. see 2nd photo. once in place, use your smaller screws to attach plywood to studs. after 3 sides are connected, pre drill your rod holes with appropriate size drill bit. I used 1/4" rods, so used 1/4" drill bit. Measure out inside distance and evenly drill holes for rods, drilling in approximately 1/2" . do this for both top and bottom, clamping the bottom piece on but not screwing down. after all holes are drilled, place rods into top wood. you may want to use a rubber mallet to push them in further. then place bottom piece onto the rods and also pound on. once rods are all the way in place screw the bottom stud to the plywood. after secure, remove the plywood center using a circular saw or small blade saw, depending on what you have access to. For now, the door can be placed off to the side.

Step 2: Back

Pre Cut pieces of wood:

2- 27" studs

2- 23" studs

1- 20" stud

1- 24" x " plywood

4- 1' steel rods

Take 1 27" stud and both 23" studs and attach 23" studs to bottom of 27" on both ends. using your large screws, drill from the ends of the 27" at an angle into the 23" studs. Take the second 27" stud and attach it to the bottom of the 23" studs. on the top, pre drill the rod holes like in step 1. measure out on the 20" stud the same distance between rods. place rods in top piece after holes are drilled, pound into place, then add the 20" stud. your distance from top to bottom of the 20" stud should be just over 17". this number does not need to be exact. Attach your plywood on the lower portion, below the rods, leaving the same gap as you did on step 1.

Step 3: Sides

For both sides you will need:

4- 40" studs

4- 23" studs

2- 39" x " plywood

4- 36" steel rods

Take 1 40" stud and attach a 23" stud to one end of it. (23" should be sitting on top of 40"). attach using a plywood piece, leaving a 5/8" gap on sides. Measure out on 23" stud between the top and the plywood piece for 2 evenly spaced rods. clamp the opposite side 23" piece on plywood in place and measure for rod spacing. drill holes. place rods into stud on the secured side first, then onto the free floating piece. secure second 23" piece to plywood after rods are fully placed into studs. Attach top piece by using large screws and drilling from top piece at an angle into the side pieces. Repeat for the 2nd side.

Step 4: Assembly

You'll need all pre assembled sides for this step, as well as 2 plywood pieces cut to 27" x 43". start by attaching the back to one side. Use the large screws to secure them together from the end. make sure top matches up, and that the inside plywood sits snug to each other. Add the other side to the back and repeat process.

Next, attach one plywood piece to bottom. make sure the back and sides are flush, then in the front you should have a slight overhang. After attaching bottom, I used a 1/4" rubber mat cut to size and secured it to the floor using smaller screws. this is completely optional, but since I cannot put any blankets in my dogs kennel, I opted for the rubber bottom. Then attach the top as you did the bottom.

Then put the door into place on the front. once the door is snugly put onto the front, take your hinges and attach to one of the sides of door. I used 2 1/2 " carriage bolts to attach the hinge to the side of the kennel, then the provided screws for the side that connects to the door.

On opposite side, attach your selected latches. I chose 3 latches, one that locks with a key and the others that are a simpler lock. attach so they are tight on the door.

Step 5: Try It Out!

I obviously made a very large kennel for my dog. He is a shorter, longer dog weighing in at 78 pounds. this has enough room for him to turn around in, stand up comfortably, and have plenty of air flow. as you can see, he is quite comfortable!

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Dog kennel metal rods for

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Luxury Dog Kennel Part 3: The Bars (made from rebar!)

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