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Traxxas molds its Heavy Duty (HD) arms in a proprietary plastic formulated for superior strength, even in cold conditions that make other plastics brittle. Along with classic black, you can get the arms in red, green, orange, and white. We’re going with orange to match our 4X4’s wheels and body, and we’ll pair up the arms with orange-anodized aluminum caster blocks, steering blocks, and rear carriers for an even greater durability boost. To give our 4X4 fully adjustable camber and toe-in (and add a bit of contrasting color) we’re also swapping the one-piece camber links for aluminum TUBES turnbuckle links.
Heavy-duty suspension arms
Suspension arm comparison
Full set of orange aluminum parts
TUBES camber and toe links are the finishing touch. In addition to looking great, the links make it easy to fine-tune camber and toe-in without disassembly.
HD arms, aluminum upgrades, and TUBES ready to rock. The rear carriers are labeled R and L to indicate right and left, and will give the Slash 4X4 four degrees of toe-in. Or, you can swap their positions (install “R” on the left side and vice-versa) for one degree of toe-in—which is what we did.
Our Slash 4X4 is looking good. On to Phase 2!
Phase 2: Aluminum GTR Shocks & Blue 330 Servo
7461 GTR Long blue-anodized shocks
7461 GTR Long blue-anodized shocks
7462 GTR XX-Long blue-anodized shocks
7444 Long GTR springs pair, 0.767 rate
7446 XX-Long GTR springs pair, 0.874 rate
2250 High-Torque 330 Coreless Servo
The Slash 4X4’s 2056 servo is equipped with plastic gears and steers with 80 ounce-inches of torque. For greater steering authority and durability, Traxxas offers three metal-gear servo options: the 125 oz.-in 2075X, the 330 oz.-in. High Torque 330 with coreless motor, and the 400 oz.-in. High Torque 400 with a brushless motor inside. We’re going with the 330 for this build. The servo can be installed without removing front suspension module, so the job only takes a few minutes.
Metal gears for durability
Installation is quick and easy
300% more steering torque
We’ve gone with Big Bores for our other 3-Phase build-ups, but this time around we’re installing Traxxas’ very best shocks: GTRs. The shocks feature PTFE-treated 13 mm bores that deliver 70% greater oil capacity, and friction-fighting Titanium Nitride-coated shafts that reduce friction on the X-ring seals to the absolute minimum. The springs are sold separately, so you can choose the right rates (stiffness) for your application. We installed “black” springs, as used on the Slash 4X4 Platinum.
GTR shock body is threaded to adjust ride height
GTR vs stock shock comparison
The GTR shocks look amazing and offer super-smooth damping
Phase 3: Velineon Brushless Power System
3350R Velineon VXL-3s Brushless Power System
3947X 17-tooth pinion
6855 Aluminum driveshaft, blue
6888X Drive hub for aluminum shaft
Our upgrades so far have made our Slash 4X4 an even tougher, better-handling, and more tunable short-course machine. Now it’s about to get a whole lot faster. The Velineon VXL-3s brushless power system puts over 60 mph in reach when you install a 3-cell Power-Cell LiPo battery, and it’s a straight swap for the Slash 4X4’s factory-installed XL-5 and Titan 550 combo (which you can trade in for a Power-Up discount). To get the most from the Velineon system, we’ll install a 13-tooth pinion to give our 4X4 the same gear ratio as the Slash 4X4 VXL.
Apply a small amount of differential oil onto the output shaft followed by the PTFE washer and blue X-ring before inserting it into the carrier. This will help prevent the X-ring from tearing during the assembly process and provide a good seal. Insert the shaft through the carrier and then fill the carrier approximately one-quarter full of differential oil.
Assemble the internal differential gears
Notice that the upgraded XO-1 internal differential gears feature a large steel brace for extra support. The brace only fits in one way so it’s best to do a test fitting before final assembly. Apply oil to all of the internal parts as you assemble them. This helps lubricate them, but also makes assembly easier if they all stick together.
Fill the differential carrier with oil
Press the completed gear assembly down into the carrier and turn the output shaft. This will coat the gears in the differential oil at the bottom of the carrier. If necessary, add a little more oil to the carrier, but do not overfill it. Overfilling the differential can cause the seal to fail when you tighten down the ring gear. Apply oil to the second output shaft and X-ring using the same technique as before and insert it through the spiral-cut ring gear.
Attach the ring gear
Line up the holes in the black rubber differential seal with the screw holes in the carrier. The holes are not pre-threaded so you’ll need to add a little pressure to get the screws started. Use the 2mm bit from the Traxxas tool kit and tighten down the ring gear onto the carrier using an "X" pattern. The handle on the driver uses a one-way mechanism to make tightening the screws easy without having to let go.
Assemble the second differential
Assemble the second differential the same way as the first. This one should only take half as much time now that you’re familiar with the process. Take a moment to inspect the gears and wipe off any differential oil that may have leaked out. Notice how the teeth are spiral-cut. This provides a larger surface area for greater durability and power handling.
Remove the bulkhead
Now that your differentials are ready to install, it’s time to remove the old ones. The Slash’s modular chassis makes this easy and straight forward. Begin by removing the four screws that hold the rear bulkhead. You'll need the 2.5mm bit from the tool kit. Once those are out, you can remove the entire bulkhead assembly.
Remove the bumper
With the bulkhead out, it's time to remove the rear bumper. There are five screws securing the bumper to the bulkhead. Use the 2mm bit from the tool kit to remove them.
Detach the axles
With the bumper off, remove the two grub screws holding the axle onto the differential output shafts. You'll need the 1.5mm bit from the tool kit. It is not absolutely necessary to remove the stainless pins holding the suspension arms to the bulkhead, but you may find that it gives you more room to work.
Remove the differential cover
You're in the home stretch now! Remove the two screws securing the differential cover and set it aside. This will give you access to the differential carrier.
Install the pinion gear
NOW STOP! Before you remove the differential, take note on which side the ring gear sits. It must go back in the same way or you can lock up the entire drivetrain. Remove the old differential carrier from the bulkhead. If the bearings are in good condition, reinstall them onto the new differential. Tap the old pinion gear out of the bearing holding it in the bulkhead and install the new one.
Grease the gears
Once you install the new differential, it's time to grease everything up. Don't go crazy with the grease, but give everything a good coating. Reinstall the differential cover when you've finished and then reattach the bumper to the bulkhead.
Remove the clutch assembly
Now that the rear differential is complete, it's time to upgrade the clutch. The heavy-duty clutch features aluminum pads for greater heat tolerance and a much larger pressure plate to handle massive power upgrades. The old clutch assembly should pull straight out of the chassis.
Use the second hole
Remove the drive hub from the clutch shaft and then use the 8mm wrench to remove the locknut. This will release all the parts on the clutch shaft. Remove all the old parts and install the pin in the second hole of the clutch shaft. Slide the new pressure plate over the pin to lock it into place.
Install the bearing adapter
Install the new clutch disc onto the pressure plate. If your spur gear is in good condition remove it and attach it to the new clutch plate with the same three screws. Install the three aluminum pads onto the plate with the rounded edges facing away from the spur gear and then carefully press the clutch halves together. Slide the new aluminum bearing adapter and bearing onto the shaft with the tapered end facing the gear.
Tighten the clutch
Reinstall the spring onto the shaft and then the locking nut. Hold the clutch assembly together as you tighten down the nut. Tighten the nut until you compress the spring fully and then loosen the nut about half a turn.
Reinstall the clutch
Reinstall the drive hub onto the end of the clutch shaft and insert it back into the chassis. You may need to rotate it slightly to align it with the center driveshaft. Once it's installed, reinstall the rear bulkhead and tighten everything down.
Remove the drive hub
Replacing the front differential is the same procedure as the rear with a couple extra screws. You'll need to remove the screw holding the steering arm to the bell crank to remove the front bulkhead. You also need to remove the grub screw holding the drive hub onto the pinion gear. Replace the front differential and reassemble the front bulkhead. Double-check your work and tighten everything down.
With these drivetrain upgrades in place, your Slash 4X4 is ready to handle some serious power. Check out our parts finder for dozens of other upgrades and accessories. With the best customer service and parts support in the industry, Traxxas makes customization fun and easy for hobbyists of all skill levels.
Slash 4x4 Rear Differential Rebuild/Fix (GPM Diff Housing and new Spider Gears)
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Slash 4x4 Rear Differential Rebuild/Fix (GPM Diff Housing and new Spider Gears)
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