Crochet t shirt neckline

Crochet t shirt neckline DEFAULT

#CrochetSummer Cal Patch T-Shirt Tutorial

It is no secret that I adore Cal Patch. Not only does she have a wonderful personality and is a joy to be around (you can&#;t help but be happy and calm in her presence), her style and her approach to sewing, crocheting, and teaching is really inspirational. Her book, Design It Yourself Clothes, published almost five years ago, was years ahead of the curve in terms of providing sewists with the necessary tools to design, draft, and sew a handmade wardrobe. Cal is also a huge supporter, promoter, and designer of crochet. As a result, it was a no-brainer to include her in our Crochet Summer feature!

Cal was incredibly generous to not only agree to participate in #crochetsummer, but she also was excited to provide a brand-new tutorial for one of her signature styles, crocheting a neckline onto a t-shirt. Check it out below!

&#;-

CAL:
One of my favorite ways to add a handmade touch to garments I make, or to customize something old and plain, is to embellish with a crochet edging. Crochet, unlike embroidery or knitting, can&#;t be done by machines, so I consider it the ultimate hand craft. In this tutorial I&#;ll be using a T-shirt neckline, but the same technique can be adapted for use on a cuff or hem of any knit or woven garment.

I&#;m using a super simple T-shirt that I made for this tutorial. You can make one following the instructions here, but note that I made this one much smaller and more fitted, so it&#;s a T-shirt not a dress (I used a width of about 20&#; and a length of 24&#;). You won&#;t have to finish any of the edges when using a knit fabric, so it&#;s a very quick project! You can also crochet a neckline onto a pre-made T; in that case you&#;ll want to cut off the neckband. You can make the neckline lower and/or wider if you want to, since it&#;ll be filled back in with the crochet.

MATERIALS:
For this project you&#;ll need very few supplies:
• a top with a raw (cut) neckline
• a small bit of fingering-weight yarn
• a very small steel crochet hook
• a slightly bigger crochet hook (I used size C)
• appx. 10 sewing pins

DIRECTIONS:
SET-UP /
 Turn the raw edge of the neckline of your t-shirt under by about 3/8&#; and pin it all around. Note: Sometimes I don&#;t turn the edge under, but doing so gives a cleaner look, and working through 2 layers of jersey will make the neckline stronger.

Ready to crochet!

Note: I&#;m using a fingering-weight yarn, but you can experiment with different weights to see what works best for your garment. Because my yarn is fine, I&#;m able to use one of my tiny steel hooks which are great for poking directly into the knit of the shirt. If you decide to use worsted or bigger yarn, you will want to pre-poke your holes with a large darning needle so that you can get the hook through. (I would make a test swatch first to check gauge and how far apart the holes should be.) You may also wish to measure and mark your hole placement with a disappearing marker before you begin. Me, I just dive right in!

ROW 1 /
With a slip knot on your hook, pierce the neckline of the shirt (be sure to poke through both layers) 1/4&#; away from the folded edge, just behind the right side shoulder seam, and join with a slip stitch.

You can use any stitch pattern you like, but this is what I did: Chain 7 (that&#;s 3 turning chains plus 4 across) and double crochet 3/4&#; over from the join. Chain 4, double crochet again 3/4&#; over, and continue around in this manner until you reach the beginning chain 7.

Join with a slip stitch in the 3rd chain.

ROW 2 / From this point on, you won&#;t be piercing the shirt any more, so you can switch to a slightly bigger hook if you want to.

Slip stitch into the next 2 chains (so that you are in the center of the chain-4 space), chain 6 (that&#;s 3 turning chains plus 3 across) and double crochet into the next chain-4 space. Chain 3 and double crochet into the next space, and continue around.

Join with a slip stitch into the the 3rd chain of the beginning chain 6, and finish off. Weave in ends.

&#;&#;&#;
Thanks, Cal! For more information about the awesomeness that is Cal Patch, check out her website here, her Etsy shop here, and her awesome Creativebug classes here!

Sours: https://kelbournewoolens.com/blog//07/crochetsummercal-patch-tutorial/

Crochet Neckline; DIY Shirt Refashion

crochet shirt

Do you know how to crochet?  Do you have a plain shirt that is in need of a little pick-me-up?  Than this project is for you.  Crocheting a neckline is an easy way to transform a ho-hum shirt into something with a little more interest and feminine style.  I love how the openwork crochet creates a lace-like appearance without being overly fru-fru.

I only used three different stitches to create this particular neckline; chain stitch, single crochet, and double crochet.  The thread that I used was just a simple cotton crochet thread that I inherited from my Grandma.  It&#;s probably a size 10 thread, though it didn&#;t have a label so I&#;m not exactly sure.

Untitled

To begin, I used a 1mm crochet hook to pierce the fabric of the original shirt neckline and create a crocheted foundation for my new crocheted neckline.  This particular shirt has a double layer of knit fabric in the bodice, so it was a little difficult to pierce, which is why I used the smallest hook that I could use with the thickness of thread that I had.  In the places where I pierced the shirt I made a single crochet, then made three chain stitches between each single crochet stitch.  At this point, a fabric marker may come in handy so that you can be sure that your stitches are evenly spaced along the neckline.  Or, you can just wing it like I did.

Untitled

DIY Crochet neckline

Once you have a foundation row established, it is a good idea to find the middle of the shirt (front and back) and mark it with some contrasting yarn.  This will come in handy if you would like to do any shaping of your neckline.

From here on your stitches will depend on the look you want as well as the size and shape of your particular neckline.  For my shirt, I used various combinations of double crochet with chain stitches between and single crochet with chain stitches between.  Keep in mind that if you want your neckline to lay flat, the overall number of stitches will need to decrease as you add each successive row.

DIY Crochet neckline

crochet shirt

My original shirt had a neckline that was very deep in front and in back.  I really like it, but I thought that it was a bit low in the front, so I gave myself a little more coverage with the crochet neckline in the front than I did in the back.

To keep up on all things zween, please follow me on Facebook and Pinterest.

Happy Crafting!

This post has been added to the linky party make it, wear it Thursdays on The Train to Crazy, Make it Pretty Monday on the Dedicated House, The Inspiration Board Link Party on Caroyln&#;s Homework,  and Made By You Mondays on Skip to my Lou.

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Sours: https://zween.wordpress.com//10/12/crochet-neckline-diy-shirt-refashion/
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Do you have old clothes that are boring and you don&#;t wear anymore? If so, here is a way to spruce them up and give them a brand new look! You can add crocheted edging to your shirts, sleeves, skirts or any other piece of fabric you wish.

In this example, I transform the plain neckline of my old shirt into pretty crocheted edging using a simple edging pattern. Remember, you can do this for all sorts of fabric using different edging patterns. Use this example as a guide for the edging you choose to crochet onto your clothing.

crochet edging

Materials:
Old T-shirt or other fabric
Scissor
Size 10 thread (you may use other threads or weights of yarns if desired)
Crochet Hook US 7 ( mm)
Note: Use a hook that is appropriate for the thread/yarn you chose to use. The smaller the hook the easier it is for it to pierce the fabric. (Learn more about types of yarn and recommended crochet hooks)
Optional: If your hook is not able to pierce through the fabric you may use a darning needle or other sharp tool to pre-poke the holes into your fabric

Here is my old, plain shirt. Boring, right?
crochet edging

The first thing I&#;m going to do is cut the neckband off. You can cut the neck hole bigger or wider if you desire. The neckband will be replaced with crochet edging.
crochet edging

Fold the edge of the neckline under approximately 1/4&#; so that it hides the raw edges created by cutting the cloth. You may choose to place pins around the neckline to keep the edge folded under. Personally, I fold the edge under while I crochet, since I&#;m afraid of pricking myself with the pins.

Now it&#;s time to crochet! Starting with a slip knot on your hook, insert your hook at the shoulder seam directly underneath the 1/4&#; fold. Your hook should go through one lay of fabric (not both) and will prevent the fold from coming apart when you make your stitches. Now, yarn over and pull the strand of yarn through the fabric and the loop on your hook. This will secure the thread onto your fabric.
crochet edging

Use the following pattern to create your crochet edging around the neckline:

Round 1: ch 6, (dc into fabric, ch 3) around, place marker
Note: Make sure that the space between each double crochet is the length of the chain 3.

Here is what the first round looks like:
crochet edging

Now use the rest of the pattern to finish the edging. You will no longer need to crochet into the fabric. Instead you will be crocheting into the previous round of stitches. This pattern is created in a spiral and no joining is necessary after each round.

Round 2: (dc in next ch-3 space, ch 3) around
Round 3: (dc in next ch-3 space, ch 2) around, sl st in next ch-3 space, finish off.

Here is what the finished neckline looks like. Much prettier than the old, boring neckline.

crochet edging

Remember, you can add crochet edging to more than just necklines! You can add edging to your sleeves, skirts, fleece blankets, or any other fabric you desire. You can even use different edging patterns!

This tutorial was requested by a Crochet Spot Newsletter Subscriber! If you would like to receive the free newsletter too, just fill out the orange box at the top of this page.

This entry was posted on Thursday, August 27th, at AM by Rachel Choi and is filed under Free Crochet Patterns, Tutorials and Help. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

Sours: https://www.crochetspot.com/how-to-crochet-edging-onto-clothing/
I cut up and crocheted a new neckline for my crewneck t shirt

Perfect T-Shirt Crochet Pattern

Introducing: The Perfect Crochet T-Shirt &#; Free Crochet Pattern

This beginner friendly crochet pattern is worked in the round from the top, down. Crocheted quickly in linen stitch, this top is extremely comfortable and stylish.

The best part? It&#;s also super fun to make!

perfect crochet t-shirt main image

The Perfect Crochet T-Shirt is available as a free pattern and as a kit with Lion Brand Yarn. Scroll down to access the free pattern or continue reading to learn a bit about the design and some pointers to help you out!

Also check out the coordinating knitting pattern, the Perfect Knit T-Shirt!

**please note, some links may be affiliate links which will allow me to make a small commission on products purchased through my referral. This does not influence my opinion or the price of the item that you are purchasing in any way.

Perfect T-Shirt Design

It seems like I am always searching for the perfect, everyday tee. Very rarely do I come across one that is just ~perfect~ and when I do, I buy a handful!

A perfect t-shirt, to me, needs to have a well shaped neckline. I love the look of a relaxed crew neck.

I don&#;t want a t-shirt that is too tight or too loose. I prefer around 4&#; of positive ease for a relaxed fit that still looks polished.

Finally, comfort is KEY! I am not going to wear something that is uncomfortable, especially in the summer! I knew I needed to use this yarn to make a t-shirt that was soft, cool, and had beautiful drape.

crochet t-shirt detail image

The Crochet Pattern

I really wanted to be sure this pattern was fun and easy to make! I think summer is a time for relaxing and enjoying life so I wanted a pattern that fit right in with that vibe.

I used linen stitch (also called moss stitch) for this t-shirt. I love this stitch because it&#;s super easy and quick to work. You are crocheting into gap spaces between stitches so its very easy to do without looking or paying much attention!

This pattern is worked primarily in-the-round from the top, down. At the beginning, you will crochet a couple rows flat to shape the front neckline so that it sits a bit lower than the back neckline. Then, you will join to work in the round and shape the shoulders, body, and sleeves.

I&#;ve added some additional photos throughtout this pattern to explain the construction a bit more incase you&#;ve never made a top-down, raglan crochet sweater!

Yarn and Materials

As I mentioned above, I wanted to use a yarn for this t-shirt that was breathable, cool, and amazingly soft. Lion Brand Coboo is my favorite yarn and worked perfectly for this crochet pattern!

If you are interested in using this exact yarn, you might want to check out the crochet kit which contains all the yarn needed to make your size and a free copy of the pattern!

I will note that this yarn is plied and has a tendency to &#;split&#; from your hook. I personally don&#;t find this to be an issue but if this is something that bothers you I have some great yarn substitutions listed below.

crochet tee image in front of water on model with hand in hair

Yarn Substitutions

Some other yarns that I recommend for this crochet t-shirt are:

  • Truboo from Lion Brand: a % bamboo yarn similar to Coboo but without the cotton! This yarn is a bit shinier and silkier than Coboo.
  • Comfy Cotton Blend: another favorite, this yarn is an acrylic cotton blend that I&#;ve used and loved many times!
  • CotLin from KnitPicks: this yarn is a cotton, linen blend so its very cooling and perfect for warm weather. Its not quite as soft as some of the others but I still love it because it has that high-end linen feel
  • Swish DK: a % merino wool yarn, perfect if you don&#;t want to use cotton but still prefer to use natural fibers! Just note, this yarn is wool so its a bit warmer than the other options.
  • Comfy Worsted: this yarn is labeled as a worsted weight but I strongly think that it is more of a DK weight. I am always impressed with this yarn and how unbelievable soft it is! Also check out Comfy Color Mist, the same yarn just with speckled colors instead of solids.

Perfect T-Shirt Crochet Pattern

© ORIGINALLY LOVELY

This pattern and photographs of this garment are property of Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely. This pattern, photos, and design are subject to copyright and are for personal use only. All commercial use is strictly prohibited. You may not reproduce or distribute this pattern under any circumstances.

The free version of this pattern must be viewed from the webpage.

Shop the kit with Lion Brand Yarn HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Perfect Crochet T-Shirt on Ravelry, CLICK HERE

To purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the Perfect Crochet T-Shirt on Etsy, CLICK HERE

perfect crochet t-shirt pattern

Skill Level

Easy +

Materials

3, (4, 4, 5, 5), (6, 6, 7, 8) skeins / , (, , , ), (, , , ) yards Lion Brand Coboo Yarn (shown in White)

Size US F-5 ( mm) crochet hook

Removable Stitch Marker

Tapestry Needle to weave in ends

Notes

This raglan style t-shirt is worked from the top, down. After the first few rounds are worked flat to shape the front neckline, this t-shirt will be worked in the round.

Finished Dimensions

XSSMLXL2X3X4X5X
Bust/Chest Circumference323640444852566064
Length23232424

XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)

Perfect T-Shirt crochet pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parenthesis. When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes. To keep track of your size, you may highlight or circle all numbers for your chosen size before you begin. 

Help Choosing Size

This top is designed to be worn with ” of positive ease at the bust. Model is 6&#; tall, has a 33” bust, and is wearing a size small with 3” of positive ease. For best fit, choose a size that is ” larger than your corresponding bust measurement.

Gauge

19 sts and 17 rows = 4” in linen stitch

perfect knit t-shirt and perfect crochet t-shirt laying next to each other overlapping to show the similarities and differences

Abbreviations

This pattern is written using U.S. English Terminology

[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed.

( ) = work instructions within parenthesis as directed.

* = repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed.

BLO = back loop only

CH = chain stitch

GAP SP = gap space, this is referring to the gap that is created between each double crochet cluster

RD = round

RS = right side

SC = single crochet

SLST = slip stitch

SK = skip the next stitch

SP = space

ST = stitch

STS = stitches

WS = wrong side

Perfect T-Shirt Crochet Pattern

Ch 92 (92, 92, 92, 92) (92, 92, 92, 92) sts.

Set-up Row: beginning in 4th ch from hook, SC, ch2, SC, [ch1, sk1, SC] 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) (10, 10, 10, 10) times, ch2, SC, [ch1, sk1, SC] 20 (20, 20, 20, 20) (22, 22, 22, 22) times, ch2, SC, [ch1, sk1, SC] 11 (11, 11, 11, 11) (10, 10, 10, 10) times, ch2, SC, ch3, turn.

You will now begin shaping the raglans and neckline. Each ch2 sp worked in the previous row is a corner where the raglans will be increased.

Row 1: * [SC, ch2, SC] in ch2 gap sp, ch1, [SC, ch1], in each gap sp to next corner. Rep from * to final corner sp, [SC, ch2, SC] in corner sp, ch1, [SC, ch1, SC] in turning ch from previous row, ch3, turn.

2: * [SC ch1] in each gap sp to corner, [SC, ch2, SC] in corner sp, ch1. Rep from * three more times, [SC, ch1] until turning ch from previous row, [SC, ch1, SC] in turning ch, ch3, turn.

Rep row 2. On the final row, do not ch3 and turn.

Neckline Join:

You will now join the neckline and begin working in the round.

Ch18 (18, 18, 18, 18) (22, 22, 22, 22), careful not to twist work, SC into turning ch sp on opposite end of neckline to join in rd.

You are going to be working in the round in a spiral with no distinct beg/end of each rd. You may place a st marker here to denote this point as the beg/end of each rd to better keep track of raglan increase rounds worked.

Set-up Round: * ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to corner, [SC, ch2, SC] in corner sp. Rep from * 3 more times, ch1, [SC, ch1] to front neckline ch, sk the first ch, SC into next ch, ch1, [sk next ch, SC into next ch, ch1] to end of rd.

Round 1: * ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to corner, [SC, ch1, SC] in corner sp. Rep from * 3 more times, [ch1, SC] in each gap sp to end of rd.

Repeat Round 1 3, (8, 12, 17, 22) (25, 29, 34, 39) more times. Counting only the SC sts, no t the ch sts, you will have 27, (32, 36, 41, 46), (47, 51, 56, 61) st for each sleeve and 36, (41, 45, 50, 55), (60, 64, 69, 74) sts for both the front and the back.

Separate for Body:

You will now separate the sleeves from the body and begin working the body in the round.

Next row: * Ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to corner, SC into corner sp, ch5, sk all sleeve sts to next corner sp, SC into corner sp. Rep from * once more. This will now be beg/end of each rd.

The lower part of the neckline that you shaped will be the front of your shirt and the 5 ch sts will be each underarm.

1: * ch1, [SC, ch1] in each gap sp to underarm ch sts, SC into first ch, [ch1, sk1, SC] 2x, ch1, rep from * once more.

Work even by [SC, ch1] in each gap sp until piece measures 14, (, 13, , 12), (12, 11, , 10)” from underarm. You may work more/less at this point to make your top longer/shorter.

Final round: SC, [slstblo] in each st to end of rd. Cut yarn leaving a tail and pull the final st all the way through to secure. Weave in end.

Sleeves:

Beginning at the right side of one underarm, [SC ch1] into each of the 4 gap spaces at the underarm, [SC, ch1] around arm opening to underarm, slst with first SC to join. This will be beg/end of each round.

Work even by [SC, ch1] in each gap sp until piece measures. ” from underarm. You may work more/less at this point to make your sleeve longer/shorter.

Final round: SC, [slstblo] in each st to end of rd. Cut yarn leaving a tail and pull the final st all the way through to secure. Weave in end.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Neckline:

Starting in the raglan gap at the left side of the back neckline, [SC, ch1] into the raglan gap, [SC, ch1] in each of the 11 (11, 11, 11, 11), (9, 9, 9, 9) gap sp to the next raglan, [SC, ch1] in the next 6 gap sp down the side of neckline, [SC, ch1] in the next 9 (9, 9, 9, 9), (11, 11, 11, 11) gap sp across center front neckline, [SC, ch1] in the next 6 gap sp up the other side of neckline, [SC ch1] in each of the next 12 (12, 12, 12, 12), (10, 10, 10, 10) gap sp to final raglan, [SC, ch1] into the final 20 (20, 20, 20, 20), (22, 22, 22, 22) gap sp across back.

Final round: SC, [slstblo] in each st to end of rd. Cut yarn leaving a tail and pull the final st all the way through to secure. Weave in end.

Finishing:

Weave in all ends to secure.

Block by soaking in warm water and lay flat to dry.

Enjoy!

For questions, please email [email protected]

I’d love to see your finished work! Share on social media using the hashtag #originallylovely or by tagging @originally.lovely and @lionbrandyarn on Instagram!

I hope that you&#;ve enjoyed this Perfect T-Shirt Crochet Pattern!

Looking for other free warm weather crochet patterns? Check out the Maria Top or read about the 20 Best Free Granny Square Patterns!

You can also check out the knit version of this pattern, the Perfect Knit T-Shirt!

perfect knit t-shirt and perfect crochet t-shirt laying next to each other overlapping to show the similarities and differences
Sours: https://www.originallylovely.com/crochet/perfect-t-shirt-crochet-pattern/

T neckline crochet shirt

Forest Breeze Tee - free crochet pattern + video

V-Neck Tee Pattern

FRONT BODY PANEL (V-NECK)

Left Side V

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 20(24, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42).

ROW 1: DC into the 3rd chain from the hook, DC in each ch until end.
<18(22, 26, 28, 32, 36, 40)>

ROWS Ch 2, turn, DC in each st until end.
<18(22, 26, 28, 32, 36, 40)>

ROW 5: Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<19(23, 27, 29, 33, 37, 41)>

ROW 6: Ch 2, turn, DC 18(22, 26, 28, 32, 36, 40), 2DC.
<20(24, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42)>

ROW 7: Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<21(25, 29, 31, 35, 39, 43)>

ROW 8: Ch 2, turn, DC 20(24, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42), 2DC.
<22(26, 30, 32, 36, 40, 44)>

ROW 9: Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<23(27, 31, 33, 37, 41, 45)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 22(26, 30, 32, 36, 40, 44), 2DC.
<24(28, 32, 34, 38, 42, 46)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<25(29, 33, 35, 39, 43, 47)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 23(27, 31, 33, 37, 41, 45)>, 2DC, 2DC.
<27(31, 35, 37, 41, 45, 49)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<29(33, 37, 39, 43, 47, 51)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 28(32, 36, 38, 41, 46, 50), 2DC.
<30(34, 38, 40, 44, 48, 52)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<32(36, 40, 42, 46, 50, 54)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 31(35, 39, 41, 45, 49, 53), 2DC.
<33(37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 55)>

*Sizes XS(S, M) – Fasten off. Proceed to Right Side V instructions.

Sizes (L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end. <(44, 48, 52, 56)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 43(47, 51, 55), 2DC. <(45, 49, 53, 57)>

*Sizes (L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) – Fasten off. Proceed to Right Side V instructions.

Right Side V

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 20(24, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42).

ROW 1: DC into the 3rd chain from the hook, DC in each ch until end.
<18(22, 26, 28, 32, 36, 40)>

ROWS Ch 2, turn, DC in each st until end.
<18(22, 26, 28, 32, 36, 40)>

ROW 5: Ch 2, turn, DC 17(21, 25, 27, 31, 35, 39), 2DC.
<19(23, 27, 29, 33, 37, 41)>

ROW 6: Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<20(24, 28, 30, 34, 38, 42)>

ROW 7: Ch 2, turn, DC 19(23, 27, 29, 33, 37, 41), 2DC.
<21(25, 29, 31, 35, 39, 43)>

ROW 8: Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<22(26, 30, 32, 36, 40, 44)>

ROW 9: Ch 2, turn, DC 21(25, 29, 31, 35, 39, 43), 2DC.
<23(27, 31, 33, 37, 41, 45)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<24(28, 32, 34, 38, 42, 46)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 23(27, 31, 33, 37, 41, 45), 2DC.
<25(29, 33, 35, 39, 43, 47)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<27(31, 35, 37, 41, 45, 49)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 25(29, 33, 35, 39, 43, 47), 2DC, 2DC.
<29(33, 37, 39, 43, 47, 51)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<30(34, 38, 40, 44, 48, 52)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC 28(32, 36, 48, 42, 46, 50), 2DC, 2DC.
<32(36, 40, 42, 46, 50, 54)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end.
<33(37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 55)>

*Size XS(S, M) – do not fasten off! Proceed directly to Joining Row instructions.

Sizes (L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)

ROW Ch 2, turn, DC (43, 47, 51, 55), 2DC. <(44, 48, 52, 56)>

ROW Ch 2, turn, 2DC, DC in each st until end. <(45, 49, 53, 57)>

*Sizes (L, XL, 2XL, 3XL) – do not fasten off! Proceed directly to Joining Row instructions.

JOINING ROW

JOINING ROW: Ch 2, turn, DC 31(35, 39, 43, 47, 51, 55), 2DC, 2DC into last st of Right Side V.  
<35(39, 43, 47, 51, 55, 59)>

Place the Left Side V (with the right side facing up) to the left of the Right Side V.

2DC into the first st of the Left Side V, 2DC into the next st, DC in each st until end.
<70(78, 86, 94, , , )>

BODY ROW 1: Ch 2, turn, DC in each st until end of the row.
<70(78, 86, 94, , , )>

Repeat BODY ROW 1 until BODY ROW 20(22, 22, 24, 24, 26, 26).
<Total Rows 37(39, 39, 43, 43, 45, 45)>

*You can add or remove rows to reach your desired length – please keep in mind that the ribbing adds 2cm/”.

BODY RIBBING

ROW 1: Ch 1, turn, SC in each st until the end of the row.
<70(78, 86, 94, , , )>

ROWS Ch 2, turn, DC into 1st st, *FpDC 2, BpDC 2; rep from * until last st, DC into last st.
<70(78, 86, 94, , , )>

Fasten off.

BACK PANEL

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 72(80, 88, 96, , , ).

ROW 1: DC into the 3rd chain from the hook, DC in each ch until end.
<70(78, 86, 94, , , )>

ROW 2: Ch 2, turn, DC in each st until end.
<70(78, 86, 94, , , )>

Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 37(39, 39, 43, 43, 45, 45).

*If you made the top shorter/longer make sure you have the same number of rows as your front panel.

Do not fasten off! Proceed directly to Body Ribbing instructions.

SLEEVES

FOUNDATION CHAIN: Ch 52(56, 60, 68, 72, 76, 80).

ROW 1: DC into the 3rd chain from the hook, DC in each ch until end.
<50(54, 58, 66, 70, 74, 78)>

ROW 2: Ch 2, turn, DC in each st until end.
<50(54, 58, 66, 70, 74, 78)>

Repeat ROW 2 until ROW 4(4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6).

Do not fasten off! Proceed directly to Sleeve Ribbing instructions.

SLEEVE RIBBING

ROW 1: Ch 1, turn, SC in each st until the end of the row.
<50(54, 58, 66, 70, 74, 78)>

ROWS Ch 2, turn, DC into 1st st, *FpDC 2, BpDC 2; rep from * until last st, DC into last st.
<50(54, 58, 66, 70, 74, 78)>

Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY

Line up the neckline edges of the front and back panels along the neckline together. Sew the front and back panel together.

Fold sleeves in half and line up the middle of the sleeve with the seam of the front and back panels. Sew the sleeves to the body.

Fold the top in half and sew along the sides of top and underneath the sleeves.

FINISHING

At the top of the neckline, insert hook, secure yarn and pull up a loop.

Ch 1, SC evenly along the edge of the neckline, making sure that your stitches are not too tight.

Sl st into first SC to join. Fasten off.

Weave in all of your ends.

You’ve finished your Forest Breeze Tee!

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Sours: https://forthefrills.com/forest-breeze-tee-free-crochet-pattern/
How to Crochet Onto a Shirt : Crochet Stitches \u0026 Techniques

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