GAUGES AND INSTRUMENTS GENERAL
Use the troubleshooting tables in your service manual to diagnose and locate problems with malfunctioning or inoperative instruments and gauges. For wire connections at rear of gauges, see illistrations and photos in your manual for assistance. Refer to the applicable wiring diagram at the back of the book for further assistance.
Fuel Level Gauge
When the Ignition/Light Key Switch is turned to IGNITION, the fuel gauge is connected to + 12 vdc. Current flows through the gauge and variable resistor in the fuel level sender to ground. The sender unit float controls the amount of resistance in the variable resistor.
Fuel Level Sender Test
See the following chart and “ground” the applicable test point.
1. Turn the Ignition/Light Key Switch to IGNITION. If gauge indicated FULL, gauge is functioning correctly. Proceed to step 3. If gauge did not indicate FULL, proceed to step 4.
2. With the Multi-Meter, Part No. HDA, set on the RXI scale, measure the resistance of the sender unit. Place one probe on the center terminal and the other probe on a good ground.
3. The meter must indicate approximately ohms on FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, ohms on FLHR/C models.
a. If the fuel tank is full, the reading should be approximately ohms on FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, ohms on FLHR/C models.
b. An empty tank should have a ohm resistance on FLHT/C/U and FLTR models, ohm resistance on FLHR/C models.
NOTE: If a very high resistance or infinity is indicated on the meter, the sender may be “open” or not grounded. Verify that the sender and fuel tank are grounded by placing one probe of Multi-Meter on sender flange and the other probe on crankcase. Meter must indicate one ohm or less. Replace sender if one ohm or less was present. If a higher resistance is present, refer to applicable wiring diagram at rear of this manual and check sender ground circuit.
4. If gauge did not indicate FULL, use Multi-Meter to verify that vdc is present at sender. If vdc is not present, check for broken or disconnected wire or an open winding in fuel gauge. Replace gauge if winding is open.
Fuel Gauge: FLHR/C
Low Fuel Level Lamp: FLHTCU, FLTR
Fuel low level lamp does not illuminate when fuel
level is low.
Low Fuel Level Lamp: FLHR/C
Perform resistance checks to determine if fuel gauge is faulty. Disconnect the gauge, remove the bulb and check for
resistance as follows:
+/- 20 ohms between the “S” and “G” studs
+/- 5 ohms between the “S” and “I” studs
Lack of power.
Check for power (12 vdc or battery voltage) between pins 1
(positive) and 6 (negative). All checks are made at Low fuel
module connector .
No ground. Check for continuity to ground on pin 6.
Lamp defective or wiring broken.
Ground pin 2. If lamp illuminates, then LED is functional and
wiring is OK.
Defective module, insufficient voltage to module.
LED should illuminate when voltage at pin 4 exceeds
Perform all checks at the gauge. Allow up to 30 seconds for the delay feature (both FLHR/C and FLHTCU). Orange is 12
volts DC. Pink is the sender. Black is ground. Pink to Black readings are listed below.
Key On Key Off
3 Volts 35 Ohms
Volts Ohms (Low Light On)
Oil Pressure Gauge and Indicator Light
Low oil pressure light remains on with engine running
above idle and/or oil pressure gauge does not work.
Ambient Air Temperature Gauge
No oil pressure due to lack of oil or
faulty oil pump.
Running engine when OIL pressure light remains on and gauge indicates
low pressure will result in engine damage.
1. Check oil level. Add oil if low.
2. Restart engine and verify that oil pressure light goes off and gauge indicates
pressure. If problem still exists, refer to OIL PUMP in the FLT Service
Manual (Part Number ).
Contacts in pressure sending unit
not opening to shut off light.
Variable resistor in sender is
shorted to ground.
1. Locate the oil pressure sending unit on the front right side of the crankcase.
2. Verify that the electrical connector is properly connected to the sending unit.
3. If the oil pressure gauge indicates pressure but the low oil pressure light remains
on, proceed as follows:
a. Remove electrical connector from oil pressure sending unit. Place one
ohmmeter probe on indicator lamp terminal (closest to latch), place the other
probe on the crankcase. Meter must read zero ohms.
b. Start the engine and run at a fast idle. The ohmmeter must read infinity.
c. Replace the sending unit if the above meter readings are
4. If the low oil pressure light functions correctly, but the pressure gauge does not,
then proceed as follows:
a. Remove electrical connector from oil pressure sending unit. Turn the Ignition/
Light Key Switch to IGNITION. The gauge must read zero.
b. Ground BN/GN wire terminal to crankcase. The gauge must read full scale 70
c. Replace the sending unit if the above gauge readings are obtained. If the
gauge readings are
obtained, then replace the pressure gauge.
No power to gauge. See Voltmeter.
Sensor not grounded or open
between sensor and gauge.
Test for continuity between pin 1 and ground and pin 3 and gauge. Repair if open.
Broken or disconnected power or
ground wire to gauge.
Check for 12 vdc between pins 1 and 3 at connector [A]. Replace gauge if voltage
is present. Use voltage drop tests and continuity checks to isolate if voltage is not
Malfunction in gauge or sensor.
Measure resistance between pins 1 and 3 at 65° to 85° F. Resistance should be
ohms. Replace sensor if out of range, replace gauge if within range.
Harley Touring Service Manual, , , , , , , , , , 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09 Repair Guide, Owners Service Manual, Harley Davidson Manuals, Handbook, Book, Repair Information, Specifications, Specs, Gauge Specs, Sensor wire colors, Gauge replacement.
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Hopping on a motorcycle and going for a long road trip with nothing but the breeze brushing past is an experience quite unlike any other—until you run out of gas and have to push your bike to the nearest station. This is not an uncommon occurrence because, despite continued advancements in motorcycle technology, many bikes are still manufactured without a fuel gauge. If this is the case with your bike, can you add a fuel gauge aftermarket?
You can put a fuel gauge on a motorcycle. Many different types of fuel gauges can be used, with the simplicity of installation and degree of effectiveness in measuring fuel varying significantly between products.
Although it is possible to put a fuel gauge on a motorcycle, it is not always a worthwhile endeavor. This is why some manufacturers decide not to include a fuel gauge when assembling the bike. Due to the small size of most motorcycle gas tanks and the amount that the fuel sloshes around, it can be difficult for fuel gauges to depict the tank’s remaining gas accurately.
Putting a Fuel Gauge on a Motorcycle
Adding a fuel gauge to a motorcycle can either be a relatively simple or complex project. Either way, you will be manipulating your bike’s fuel tank in some way. You may be required to drill holes in the gas tank to incorporate the system, so it is essential to know what you are doing and properly prepare before attempting the installation.
When looking to add a fuel gauge to a motorcycle, you will likely choose between a simple fuel hose kit that can give you a visual representation of the amount of fuel left in your tank or a more complex electrical system that gives you a digital or gauge-based reading of the remaining gas. The following breakdown will provide a general description of what each system entails:
Fuel Hose Kit
This is the simplest way to install a fuel gauge on your motorcycle. In the strictest sense, it is not really a gauge but rather a hose that allows you to see the physical fuel level remaining in your tank. There is no monitor reading that gives you the fuel level while riding the bike, so you have to be parked and looking at the hose to get a true indication of the fuel level.
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With that said, Billet Proof Designs offers a highly popular and effective fuel hose kit that can help you measure the fuel level in your motorcycle at an affordable cost. The components of the fuel hose kit include:
- Fuel hoses: Thehoses come in standard clear or yellow tygon. They are translucent to allow the rider to see where the fuel sits inside the hose. They are also guaranteed by the company to never crack or cloud over, with replacements offered in the event that they do.
- Elbows: The elbows are the components inserted into the fuel tank and connected to the fuel hose on the outside. There will be two elbows inserted into the fuel tank (one at the top, the other at the bottom), with the hose connecting in between. The elbows are offered in either brass or nickel-plated brass to prevent corrosion from the fuel.
- Bungs: Bungs are the fittings that go over the elbows to help seal them to the tank and prevent fuel from seeping out as it enters the hose. The bungs can be made of either aluminum or steel and are offered in a flange or flush-mount style, with the flush-mount bung pulling the elbow into the tank a bit more so that the joint does not protrude as much on the tank’s exterior.
- Tension clamps: This system uses a stainless steel constant tension clamp to ensure that the fuel hose remains tight to the elbow at both ends. The clamps help mitigate wear on the hose as fuel leaves that elbow and enters the hose.
The process for mounting this fuel hose kit to your motorcycle’s gas tank is incredibly straightforward. However, you will want an experienced welder to help make sure the process goes smoothly, as you will need to drill holes into your empty gas tank to insert the elbows and weld the bungs to the exterior of the tank to ensure that it remains in place.
Once the system is installed and the gas tank is full, fuel levels can be ascertained by seeing where the fuel sits through the translucent hose. While simple and effective, the downside is that the motorcycle must be parked to get an accurate reading.
Electrical Fuel Gauge Kits
If the basic fuel hose kit is a bit rudimentary for your taste, and you prefer a system that allows you to view your fuel levels on a gauge while riding, there are some aftermarket options available.
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While there will be some variations between products, most systems designed for bikes that were manufactured without a fuel gauge include:
- Sending unit: Thiscomponent intakes fuel and gets a reading of how much gas is left in the intake, based on the fuel intake pressure. It then converts this reading to an electrical signal and uses the electrical wiring to send this information to the gauge.
- Gauge: This will typically attach to your bike’s handlebars and displays the fuel level in either an analog or digital output. Whatever the output method, it uses the electric signal from the sending unit, and a motor in the gauge is tripped to give the reading.
- Hose: Thiswill be installed between the fuel line and carburetor and allows the sending unit to intake fuel and gain a reading before it is ultimately used by the motorcycle.
- Electrical wiring: This will connect to the fuel level sending unit and power on the back end, with the front end connecting to the fuel gauge.
- Hardware: This includes hose clamps and cable ties, as well as a velcro pad to attach the sending unit to the bike.
- Installation manual: As this process is much more involved with many more potential issues that could influence the bike’s functionality than a simple fuel hose kit, detailed instructions and warnings will be included with any electrical fuel gauge kit.
While some helpful videos and resources can help you install these types of systems, it may be best to work with a custom bike shop to ensure the best results and prevent damage to your bike’s functionality. It is also important to note that not all electrical systems are compatible with all types of bikes, so be sure to check on this before beginning installation.
Issues with Fuel Gauges on Motorcycles
Whether your motorcycle comes with a gauge installed by a manufacturer or you install one yourself aftermarket, motorcycle gauges are not always guaranteed to be accurate. This is why some manufacturers simply bypass having one installed in the first place.
The culprit behind this is the motorcycle’s relatively small tank compared to automobiles (even large motorcycles have tanks of only about gallons). Because any shifting or displacement of fuel represents a larger overall percentage of the tank’s capacity in motorcycles than in cars, fluctuations on the gas gauge can be quite dramatic.
In fact, any sloshing or displacement that occurs when riding the motorcycle uphill or around sharp curves can cause the fuel gauge to dance, making it best to take a reading when the bike is parked on flat ground; this brings the utility of a fuel gauge into question.
How to Measure Fuel in a Motorcycle without a Gauge
The safest way to measure fuel in a motorcycle is by calculating mileage. As most bikes will get about 35 miles per gallon, this means that a standard 6-gallon tank will last just north of miles before a fill-up is required.
If you have lost track of the number of miles on your tank, some bike owners also shake their bike slightly to listen for fuel levels or shine a flashlight to see if any fuel is visible.
It is possible to put a fuel gauge on a motorcycle. Several gauge systems can be used, all of which differ in price, simplicity, and effectiveness. Due to some issues that can influence the accuracy of fuel level readings on motorcycles, it is still a good idea to regularly check the mileage on each tank to ensure that you never run out of gas.
How to Change a Harley-Davidson Fat Boy Fuel Gauge
There are many reasons an owner might want to replace the fuel gauge on their Fat Boy. The reason could be as mundane as the old one has stopped working. However, for many riders, the reason will be because the old one just does not match the style you want on your motorcycle. Whatever the reason, if you are comfortable with tools and feel you can safely work around gasoline, there is no reason to pay the dealership hundreds of dollars when you can do it yourself in a few hours.
- Shop towels
- Socket wrench set
- Fuel gauge gasket
- Torx wrench set
- Allen wrench set
- Adjustable wrench
- Fire extinguisher
- Fuel storage container
Move your motorcycle to a flat, dry surface. Ensure you working area is well ventilated to dissipate any fuel vapors.
Remove your seat(s). The rear seat is removed by twisting the bolt behind the seat counterclockwise. On newer models this is done with your fingers, but can require a bolt on custom or older models. Gently pull the rear seat back and up to remove. This will reveal the front seat bolts, which come off in a similar fashion. Gently pull the front seat back and to the rear.
Consult your owner's manual and locate the fuse box. Remove the fuse for the fuel pump. Your owner's manual or a chart on the fuse box cover should indicate which one to remove. Once the fuse is removed, start your engine and let it run until the engine dies. This will depressurize your fuel lines and remove any residual fuel from the lines.
Locate your battery, which was uncovered when you removed the seat, and disconnect the negative (black) cable. Depending on the model, you may need to use an open-ended wrench or a screwdriver. Wrap the cable end in a shop towel to prevent an accidental spark, which could damage to your finish.
Locate the fuel supply line on the left side of the fuel tank near the rear. Disconnect the fuel supply line from your tank by pulling down on the collar and pulling the line free.
Remove the screw from the rear of the fuel tank. The stock part requires a T40 Torx wrench, but custom models may use a bolt or Allen wrench. Locate the retaining bolt at the front of the fuel tank. Using a socket wrench and an adjustable wrench, remove the screw. Gently slide the tank back to reveal the fuel gauge connector.
Disconnect the gauge wiring from the terminal connector.
Firmly grasp the fuel gauge and pull up and away from the tank. Do not twist while pulling, as this may damage the wiring or tank. Discard gasket.
Connect the wiring harness to the new fuel gauge as directed by the instructions that came with the new gauge. Insert the new fuel gauge into the fuel tank using the new gasket. Reconnect your wiring. Re-seat and reattach your fuel tank. Reconnect the fuel supply line. Reconnect your battery cable. Finally, replace your seat.
Davidson fuel gauge wiring harley
A, C, B, A, A, C, A, A, A, A, A, A, , , , , ,
For model fitment information, see the P&A Retail Catalog or the Parts and Accessories section of www.harley-davidson.com (English only).
See Figure 3 and Table 1.
Rider and passenger safety depend upon the correct installation of this kit. Use the appropriate service manual procedures. If the procedure is not within your capabilities or you do not have the correct tools, have a Harley-Davidson dealer perform the installation. Improper installation of this kit could result in death or serious injury. (b)
This instruction sheet references service manual information. A service manual for your model motorcycle is required for this installation and is available from a Harley-Davidson dealer.
How to Test and Replace your Fuel Gauge and Sending Unit
Is your fuel gauge inaccurate? Is it no longer working at all? This is a common problem on older boats, but is easy to fix. The first step is to determine whether the problem is with the gauge or the sending unit. The test for this is straightforward. First, check that the gauge is receiving 12 volts of power. Turn on the engines ignition and probe with a multimeter between the ground and the positive terminal on the back of the gauge; it should be marked with a + or an I. If there is no voltage then the fault is in the ignition circuitand the gauge is probably good. If there are 12 volts at the gauge, either the sender, the gauge or its wiring is the culprit, so you need to proceed to the next step.
With power running to the gauge, disconnect the sending wire; it will be marked with an S at the back of the gauge. Once the wire is disconnected, the gauge should jump to its highest possible reading. If this is the case then the gauge is good and you can proceed to the next step. If the gauge does not reach its maximum reading, it is faulty and must be replaced.
Another test is to jump a wire or a screwdriver across the sending pin to the ground pin on the back of the gauge. If there is no ground pin, use a longer wire and jump the sending pin to the engine block. When you do this, the gauge should go to its lowest reading. If it does, it is working properly.
If the gauge is good, the next step is to check the other system components, as either the wire running to the sender or the sender itself must be faulty. To check the wire, disconnect it from both the sender and the S pin on back of the gauge. Set your multimeter to the Ohms scale and check the resistance within the wire. If there is no resistance (as close to zero Ohms as possible), the circuit is good and the sender is faulty. In most cases, the sender and the fuel gauge need to be matched to the resistance in the senders rheostat, so to be completely sure you are getting accurate readings, replace both the sender and the gauge. Several companies provide pre-packaged ready-to-go installation kits.
How Tank Sensors Work
Most sensors have a mechanical floating arm and a rheostat. When the arm is all the way down, in the empty position, the resistance in the circuit to the gauge is near zero. As the arm rises, resistance in the circuit also rises to around Ohms. This resistance is what moves the needle on the gauge.
Often a problem occurs when the sending units floating arm becomes inoperative. On older units the floats may be made of cork. Over time these floats can lose buoyancy or even sink altogether, causing the fuel gauge to indicate that the tank is constantly empty.
Another common problem results when the rheostat doesnt transmit the correct electrical current to the fuel gauge, even though the floating arm is moving up and down properly. In this case, both the sender and the gauge need to be replaced.
Having obtained a new fuel sender kit, you should follow the directions specific to your new unit. In general, installation will involve the following steps. Note that senders are not usually plug and play units. The length of the sender arm may have to be modified to fit the dimensions of your fuel tank. This also ensures that the gauge reads properly.
First measure tank depth from the top of the tank, near the sending unit, to the bottom. This measurement determines the length of the sending units float arm. Next, trim the kits sending unit armthey usually come in 24in lengthsand match it to the tank depth. A strong pair of wire cutters will work with most units, but some require a hacksaw. Once you have cut the float arm to the correct length, fasten it with setscrews to the flange of the new sending unit that will be screwed into the top of the tank.
The sending wire will come off a post in the center of the flange. There may also be a ground wire coming off a second post at the edge of the flange. Both wires lead to the back of the fuel gauge. Turn off the power running to the boats systems before you disconnect any wires. Then disconnect both the sending wire and ground wire on the old sending unit. Note that if the gauge is grounded directly to a tab on the tank, there may be no ground wire. Remove the screws that hold the sending unit to the tank and take it out.
Next, remove the three wires on the back of the old gauge. One wire goes to the center pin on the tank sending unit, one goes to ground, and the third connects to a volt source, normally the ignition switch. Remove the fuel gauge.
Install the new sender by lowering the float and float arm into the tank. Be sure to slide a new gasket into place under the flange, then align the gasket with the holes in the sender and in the tank. When the gasket is aligned, mark it in relation to the flange, as it may turn while you are centering the screw holes to match the tank holes. Mark the screw holes in the tank for easier alignment; the flange will cover them and make them difficult to locate. Check to be sure the float arm can move freely and will not stick in a corner of the tank or against a vertical wall.
Orient the sender unit so the float arms movement is not hindered. You can check this ahead of time by holding the sender next to the tank before you install it to see which way the float can move freely. Once you know the proper orientation, duplicate it when you put the unit in the tank. To minimize confusion, use a marker to show the direction of travel of the float arm once the screw holes are aligned. Put in the new screws and tighten them down.
Check the wiring diagram that comes with the kit and mark the back of the new fuel gauge with symbols for each post: S for the sender, G or for the ground, and I for the ignition. Install the new gauge, reconnect the wiring and turn on the power. The fuel gauge should now show the correct fuel level in the tank. To make sure the readings are accurate top off the tank.
Problems often involve incorrect grounding and inadequate power. If the gauge does not read at all, check the power with a multimeter at the gauge terminal. Test between the positive terminal on the fuel gauge and a good ground; the reading should be 12 volts. If it isnt, check the ignition circuit. If that reads 12 volts, turn off the ignition. Then use the Ohm scale on your multimeter to check continuity between the ground terminal on the gauge and ground; the reading should be at or near zero Ohms. If not, recheck the ground circuit.
When everything is working properly, your new fuel gauge will give you a proper reading. Now you can relax, even if there is no wind, as you will now know whether you have enough fuel for your iron genny to carry you home safely.
Vetus Maxwell, vetus.com
AB Marine, ab-marine.com
BEP Marine; bepmarine.com
Faria Marine Instruments, faria-instruments.com
Livorsi Marine, livorsi.com
Mirax Fuel Products, miraxfuelproducts.com
Westberg Manufacturing, westach.com
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New Handlebar Mount Road Tech XM Satellite Radio
Convenient, Durable Receiver is Compatible with Harley-Davidson Radio Systems
Ride with more than channels of music, news and entertainment with the new Road Tech XM Satellite Radio - Handlebar Mount (P/N A, $) from Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories. The convenient handlebar-mounted receiver is designed for motorcycle use, and features large buttons for easy operation, even while wearing gloves. Twenty pre-sets allow easy access to your favorite channels. The multi-line LCD screen is easy-to-read, with an adjustable backlight for maximum daylight and nighttime visibility. The Road Tech XM unit can be connected to the auxiliary input on most Harley-Davidson fairing-mount or Road Tech Riser-Mount radios, or used with mini-plug headsets. The complete kit includes the Road Tech XM receiver, handlebar mount, compact antenna and antenna mount, and all wiring and installation hardware. The kit also includes an automotive adapter plate and volt power connector for in-car use. XM activation and monthly subscription service required with additional fee.
The Road Tech XM Handlebar Mount Radio fits later Harley-Davidson models with a Road Tech Riser Mount Radio and later models equipped with an original equipment fairing mount radio (except VRSC and later Touring models). Not compatible with Handlebar Mount GPS Navigation System, left-hand Auxiliary Switch Housing, or Clutch Lever Mounted Clock or Thermometer.
New Chrome Flush-Mount Fuel Cap and Gauge Kit
Add Smooth, Custom Styling to Many Harley-Davidson Models
The new Chrome Flush-Mount Fuel Cap and Gauge Kit ($) from Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories combines a pop-up fuel filler that when installed and sealed looks identical to the flush fuel gauge. With a simple push the fuel filler cap pops up to be twisted off by the rider. The flush fuel gauge features individual LED lamps that shine through a mirror-coated glass that glows when the ignition is switched on. A photocell automatically adjusts LED brightness for improved visibility in direct sunlight, and dims at night to avoid distraction. Complete kit includes fuel cap, fuel gauge, trim ring, and plug-in wiring harness. Chrome Flush-Mount Fuel Cap and Gauge Kits are available for Road King, most Softail, and many later Dyna models. See dealer for fitment details.
New Classic Covers Kits to detail Harley-Davidson models
Dress Up Visible Engine and Chassis Fasteners with Plated Caps
Harley-Davidson owners can customize down to the last detail with Classic Covers Kits ($ to $) from Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories. Designed to dress visible hardware on the engine and/or chassis, each kit includes a selection of plated ABS caps and plugs to cover the exposed heads of socket head screws, hex bolts, Torx screws, point screws and timer screws. Each is easy to install without tools. Classic Covers Kits are available for Twin Cam 88/96 and later Sportster XL Evolution engines. Complete kits for later Sportster, and Twin Cam-powered Softail, Dyna and Touring models, include covers for both engine and chassis hardware. See dealer for fitment details.
New Tallboy Seat for Harley-Davidson touring models
Seat Provides More Leg and Arm Room for Tall Riders
Tall riders can dial in long-range comfort with the new Tallboy Seat (P/N , $) from Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories. Designed for Touring models, this new Tallboy seat moves the rider back two inches to provide additional arm and leg room for the long-limbed rider. The seat height is similar to stock, and the slight bucket shape offers additional lower back support. Passenger comfort is maximized with the Tour-Pak Luggage mounted in the rear-most position. Seat width is 16 inches; passenger pillion width is 14 inches. Seat does not accept rider backrest. Does not fit with Passenger Grab Rails.
Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories offers a selection of Tallboy seats for VRSC, Touring, Softail and Dyna models. See a Harley-Davidson dealer for details.
For additional information on Harley-Davidson Genuine Motor Accessories, see your local Harley-Davidson dealer or visit the Harley-Davidson Web site at www.harley-davidson.com. To find a dealer near you, call toll free in the U.S.A. or Canada.