Blue tang with ich

Blue tang with ich DEFAULT

Hippo Tang with Ich

All I can say folks is that I am sharing success I've had. The stuff made a believer out of me as it has worked consistently over the past year across all my tanks. And at times, have worked when all else failed. I tried it as a hail mary at first.

I've done hypo, TTM, etc. they sometimes work...sometimes kinda work...and sometimes not. depends on how bad the situation is... and often times, at least for me, you can't catch every fish in the system. So you have to treat the whole system. Even hypo and TTM still requires you to run your tank fallow if you are to be successful.

Thus far, I haven't had any damage to the stock in my tanks so as long as the dosing instructions are followed by splitting a day's worth over two doses. I do mine 12 hours apart...and run carbon at the end of the cycle. I don't even bother to change water or run a skimmer, fwiw.

That said, there are a lot of things we put into out tanks that we wouldn’t subject people, let alone pregnant women too... lol. :)


MICROBE-LIFT/Herbtana is a unique, herbal, immune-enhancing stimulant, which reduces: skin flukes, gill flukes, Ich, Oodinium, Costia, Chilodonella and Trichodina. Parasitic infections are characterized by symptoms, such as: milky skin, flashing and heavy breathing.

Parasites are generally present on most fish at very low levels at all times. These are naturally controlled by the fish's immune system. When stress levels increase, the ability of the immune system to respond to its requirement to control the natural level of parasites is directly affected. This poor response allows parasites to increase in numbers, thus causing any of the serious above mentioned health issues in the host fish.

MICROBE-LIFT/Herbtana supports the fish's immune system, driving off the excess parasites. Since they cannot return to the fish during treatment, the majority of the parasites will starve without a host.

The Vita chem and the Garlic Xtreme, I have to say are really good:
Vita-chem marine and Vita-chem fresh is a totally new concept in aquatic and marine vitamin formulation and methodology that is - give the animals and fishes exactly what they are missing from their natural habitat and environment in a compact concentrated and easily assimilated solution compatible with their individually specialized systems and environments.
Hope she gets better soon.

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HELP! Powder Blue Tang has Ich?



JoePa lives on!!!
I'm having this same problem.....bought my PBT from divers den.....treated him with cupramine and put him in the tank. Ich. Took him out alng with all other fish.....treated everyone with cupramine and let the tank sit fishless for 59 days........put them back in and ich again. ich must have come in on frags i bought.

Bottom line here......very hard to keep ich out of your tank without a strict regimen. My current appraoch is to leave him in the tank, seaweed soak everyday and keep him eating.....hopefully he can build up a little resistance. This is the problem with these fish though, super tough to keep. None of my other fish are showing signs. If it were t turn into an "outbreak" i'd act differently but right now i'm seeing if I can control it.

Options yours but if you do remove him, you need to treat all fish and keep them out of the tank for 8 weeks.
Trying To Cure Ich On A Tang

Diagnose and Treat Saltwater Ich (Cryptocaryon)

Saltwater Ich or White Spot Disease is caused by an infestation of the ciliated protozoan Cryptocaryon irritans. Although other parasites such as Oodinium (Velvet or Coral Fish Disease) and Brooklynella (Clownfish Disease) can also cause spots on the fish at one stage in their life cycle, Cryptocaryon progresses more slowly. If detected early and treated promptly upon an outbreak, the chances of recovery are high. However, in a closed aquarium system, it can reach overwhelming and disastrous numbers if it is not treated appropriately.

The Life Cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans

  • Free-swimming cells, called tomites or theronts, are released from a mature tomont, or cyst, and go in search of a host fish, typically dying in a day or two if one is not found.
  • Upon finding a host the tomites attach to the gills or body and develop into the feeding stage, called trophonts, which burrow into the fish and begin feeding on its tissues. The epithelium of the fish swells over the trophont, which makes the visible white spot.
  • Once well fed,usually after 3 to 7 days, the trophonts stop feeding and encyst in order to reproduce. These dormant cysts, called tomonts, can remain trapped in the fish's mucus, be embedded deep in the tissue, or drop off and fall to the bottom. Over a period of 6 to 12 days (varies by water temperature) the cells inside the tomont cysts reproduce by cell division to become 100 to 1000 new tomites. Once reaching maturity the cysts rupture, releasing hundreds of new free-swimming tomites, and the cycle begins again.


Unlike Oodinium and Brooklynellathat typically attack the gills first, which allows these diseases to advance into life-threatening levels quickly as they go unnoticed, Cryptocaryon usually appears at the onset as salt-sized white spots visible on the body and fins of a host fish, although it can also infest the gills. Because Cryptocaryon is more easily recognized in its beginning stage, it is much easier to treat and cure before it gets out of control.

Aside from the appearance of the white spots, fish will scratch against objects in an attempt to dislodge the parasites, and rapid respiration develops as trophonts, mucus, and inflamed tissue clog the gills. Fish become listless, refuse to eat, loss of color occurs in patches or blotches as the trophonts destroy the pigment cells, and secondary bacterial infections may invade the lesions caused by the trophonts.

Treatment Recommendations

Although copper is very effective on Oodinium, and it works well to eliminate Cryptocaryon organisms in their free-swimming tomite stage, it is not effective on the Cryptocaryon trophonts that burrow deeply into the tissues of fish, so the aquarium needs to be treated repeatedly until all of the trophonts mature. Because of the prolonged life cycle of Cryptocaryon, affected aquariums should be treated for a minimum of 3–6 weeks. If the fish are removed from the saltwater aquarium into a quarantine tank, any Cryptocaryon parasites remaining in the aquarium without fish will die after a period of time, up to 4 weeks, depending on temperature.


Copper is toxic to marine invertebrates, so if they are present in the aquarium, the fish should be moved to a quarantine tank for treatment.

A combination of freshwater and formalin treatments administered by means of dips (short duration exposure) or baths (prolonged treatment) over a period of time in a QT is recommended as a treatment in place of copper.

Preventing Re-Infestation

Reinfection will occur no matter how effectively the fish have been treated if Cryptocaryon is not eradicated from the main aquarium, which can be accomplished by keeping the tank devoid of any fish for at least 4 weeks. For fish-only aquariums, hyposalinity can be applied, and to speed up the life cycle of the organisms, elevate the tank water temperature. For marine aquariums that also have invertebrates, or reef aquariums, Ruby Reef Kick-Ich and Chem-Marin Stop Parasites are "reef safe" treatments that specifically target the Cryptocaryon organisms.

Several days prior to returning fish to the main aquarium, clean all filtering equipment, change any filtering materials, and perform a water change.

Medication Usage Tips:

  • Porous materials such as sand, gravel, rocks, and ornaments can absorb medications. To better control the strength and effectiveness of any product you are using, it is best to use a bare QT with only some cut pieces of PVC tubing in the tank to provide shelter for the fish during the treatment period.
  • Although many over-the-counter remedies contain the general name Ich or Ick, carefully read the product information to be sure it is designed to specifically target and treat "Cryptocaryon."

Ich with blue tang

I bought a blue tang last month... looked healthy in the LFS's tank, and was eating. I placed him in a QT tank, and after a day or two of mostly hiding, he was eating well (I fed him frozen mysis, flake, and nori). This was the first time I've QT'd a fish... the various articles I found on the topic varied widely on how long of a QT was necessary... some as short as 10 days (, and others suggested 2, 3, or 4 weeks.

I should have stuck with the higher number.

After 3 weeks and 2 days of closely monitoring him several times a day and seeing no signs of disease, I figured it was safe to move him to the main tank. That was this past Tuesday (December 4th).

He's been eating very well, happily swimming around the tank. But today, I suddenly see white spots on him...

Eeeeek! Does this look like ich?

So now, of course, I'm in somewhat of a panic. Aside from kicking myself for not keeping him in QT for just a little longer, I'm trying to figure out what my next step should be. As of now, I'm not seeing any obvious white spots on the other fish (yellow tang, coral beauty, two false perculas, and a firefish). Given that, I wonder if it would be worth the trouble of trying to just catch the blue tang and put him back into QT, since maybe the ich has only infected this fish and has not reached the reproduction stage yet. This would involve removing most of the LR (I tried for a few hours tonight to catch him... he stays in the rock whenever the nets are in the water), so perhaps if I'm going to go through all that trouble, I should pull all the fish. Problem is, my wife and I are expecting, and I'm worried that if the baby comes soon after all the fish are moved, I won't be able to keep up with the water changes to head off the ammonia spike, hence the idea of just moving the blue tang and monitoring the other fish.

Anyway, I'm a little suspicious of the timing... no signs of ich on the blue tang for 3 weeks, and suddenly when I move him to the main tank, he gets it within a few days. That has me wondering if perhaps my main tank has had ich for some time, but the other fish are able to fight it off for the most part. Is an ongoing "minor" ich infestation like this even possible, or if the tank has it, would all the fish regularly have many noticeable white spots?

I do see one or two tiny white spots on the coral beauty every now and then... they look different than the above picture (smaller, less "pimple-like" in appearance), and I always figured these were just bits of sand that had stuck to him, since it never progressed beyond that.

One idea I had was to remove the snails, crabs, and shrimp, and some of the LR, and do hyposalinity in the main tank.

Any suggestions?




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Now discussing:

No, there is a member of Leo, can I say that. It is already swelling in my hand, so hot. mmm.

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