Doorbell Installation and Repair Problems Q&A
Be sure to scroll down there may be more than one question on this page!
I recently replaced the door bell button at the front door. The old button worked fine, but was coming loose from the wall. Being that it was plastic, I spent some extra money and bought a nice brass button.
There is a red and white wire coming out of the wall. The directions with the new button state to "attach the wires and mount the unit to the wall." I attached the wires and thought I would give it a try before mounting it.
Here's the problem. After attaching the wires, I pushed the button to see if it worked. It did, as long as I kept my finger on the button. As soon as I let go, it stops. Reversing the wires didn't help either. Help!
JP, Tampa Fl
You must have an electronic chime, a programmable doorbell type that plays music and lets you change songs or tones. Many electronic chimes require a diode across the doorbell button terminals (which is supplied when you purchase the doorbell). This is because these chimes need power from the button to the chime to continue longer than a brief button push, which is what the diode does store and then release a little bit of power for a longer period of time to activate the chime mechanism. This is why the longer button push activates the chime, while a brief touch of the doorbell button does not.
Get out your instructions and see if that's the case. The diode should have been included with the chime if you threw it away you probably can get a replacement online.
I don't know for sure if these diodes are "universal" across manufacturers, so take the cover of your doorbell and do a little brand-specific research to be sure you get the correct diode.
When I push my door bell button, it just makes this continuous noise, a light noise likehummmmm like it's stuck! And you have to keep hitting it to make it stop! I went to the store and they told me it sounded like all that I needed was a new push button. I tried that and it still makes that continuous noise, so that wasn't the problem. Do you think it might be in the doorbell itself (inside on the wall) ?
By the way, I have 2 doorbells, one at the front door and one at the back door, the one at the back door is working fine.
The front and rear bells do not always share the same solenoid (a type of magnet that "momentarily" moves a piston or a switch when charged with electricity) and "clapper" within the doorbell. This means that the front bell can be defective while the rear works fine. However, I am sorry to say that there is no economical way to repair common, inexpensive "bread and butter" doorbells. They must be replaced.
When you purchase your replacement, take the old doorbell with you for sizing purposes, or at least measure it before you go shopping. Then you will not have an unpainted or unwallpapered spot on the wall by inadvertently purchasing a doorbell with too small a "footprint"!
I did a very foolish thing. I unwired my doorbell and did not label the wires! Now I can't figure out how to hook them up. I have a single door bell with no back door button. It is 40 years old and works on 10 volts. There are two black wires and two white wires coming out of the wall where the door chimes are mounted. The two white wires are twisted together. The two black wires are separate.
The door bell fixture has three screws that the wires are attached to. The center screw is labeled "trans". The left screw is labeled "front" and right screw is labeled "rear". The transformer is located in a closet some distance from the fixture I have just described. Where do I put the black wires and where do I put the two twisted together white wires? I sure hope I have made this clear.
Bad JD! Go stand in the corner! Hmmmm. Alright back to work. I can't be too hard on you I have walked that road myself (and will undoubtedly walk it again).
If your installation is "standard" for one doorbell, the wiring configuration is as follows:
One of the black wires comes directly from the transformer the doorbell's source of electric power. The second black wire comes from the doorbell button. The twisted pair of white wires are from the (1) other terminal of the transformer and (2) from the second terminal of the doorbell button.
The two black wires are attached to the "trans" (transformer) terminal on the doorbell unit and to the "front" or front doorbell terminal. The "back" or backdoor terminal could be used instead of the "front". All two-button units will give you different rings for the front and rear buttons so you know which door your visitors (or travelling salesman) are at! "Front" is typically two rings and "rear" is typically one ring on many common, inexpensive mechanical doorbells. Then again, yours could play "Hold On, I'm Coming" by Sam and Dave for the front and "Back Door Man" by the Doors for the rear!
On a one-button doorbell system it doesn't make a difference which terminal you attach which black wire. I won't get technical here the simple explanation is that doorbells operate on low voltage AC power, so there is no "positive" or "negative" terminal.
Of course, this would not work if you had 3 black wires for a front and rear doorbell installation. In that case you would have to determine which black wire was the transformer wire using a voltmeter set to the AC setting too many possible wrong combinations to waste time guessing! Touch one voltmeter probe to the paired wires and the other probe to the black wires, one at a time. The black wire that gives you the appropriate reading (in your case around 10 volts) is the lead from the transformer and should be attached to the "trans" terminal of the doorbell unit.
No I didn't forget the twisted pair of white wires. They don't need to be connected to anything other than each other (how romantic!). Make sure they are held together with a wire nut so they don't accidentally come loose.
Hope this is helpful and not too confusing!
There is only one doorbell in my house and when I am in the basement I can not hear the doorbell. It would be very easy to pull wires from the existing doorbell to the basement and mount another bell. My question is two fold:
1. Is it possible to run two doorbells on the same transformer and button. If so, please send me a schematic for the wiring.
2. If this is not possible please suggest the best and most cost effective way to solve my problem.
Thanks for your help and your web page,
DH from Thornton, Colorado
Fortunately, this is not a difficult project. Actually, I am surprised that with the emergence of the "Godzilla-sized" home multiple doorbells have not become "de rigueur". I think it would be rather nifty to have a number of more mellow-sounding tones ringing throughout the house than one brash, brain-scrambling ding-dong from the portal. Anyway
If you remove the cover from the doorbell, you will see three screw terminals. One is for the front door button, one is for the rear door button, and one is for the transformer. There are other wires that are connected either in the wall behind the unit, or elsewhere, but you need not be concerned with them. They are the direct connection between the transformer and the doorbell buttons, providing power to the buttons all the time so that you can, at your option, use lighted buttons.
To connect your second doorbell, just snake a wire to the existing doorbell unit the hardest part of the job for sure!! The wire should have two or three leads, depending on whether you want the doorbell to ring for just the front or rear (two leads) or both (three leads). There is a generic wire that is called bell wire. You may also use a heavier gauge wire if you prefer.
Connect one lead to the front terminal, and one to the transformer terminal. Run these wires to the other doorbell, and connect them to the corresponding terminals. That's it! Now try to ring the doorbell.
If it rings OK, you are done. If you find that the ringing is incomplete or muffled, then you may need to upgrade the transformer (another road trip) to the next higher voltage above the recommended size for the new doorbell. The specifications will be in the documentation for the new doorbell. If you bring this information, including the size of your current transformer to the hardware store, they should be able to provide you with the correct product.
My doorbell no longer rings. The doorbell button outside the front door is no longer lit (it was when the doorbell was working). There are no breakers tripped in the breaker box. I replaced the doorbell button, but the new one does not light up either - and the doorbell still does not work. Before I go and purchase a new unit I thought I would ask you first. Any thoughts?
CH from Roundrock, Texas
The first thing to do would be to make sure you are receiving electrical power at the doorbell unit. You will have to test the transformer that supplies power to the doorbell. The transformer reduces the v AC electrical power down to around 14v AC to operate the doorbell. You can do this test without locating it by simply testing the wiring at the doorbell unit itself.
Take the cover off the doorbell unit and take note of the wiring layout. There should be two or three wires attached to terminals on the doorbell. One will be labeled "T" or Trans for transformer. The other one or two will be labeled either Front or Back, referring to the front and back doorbell buttons.
You should also see a few additional wires attached together. Be aware that sometimes there is not enough room under the doorbell unit cover, so these extra wires may be stuffed into the wall behind the unit, requiring you to take the unit down from the wall to get at them. These are the wires that complete the connection between the doorbell buttons and the transformer, forming a complete wiring circuit. When the doorbell button is pushed, power flows from the transformer, through the button, and through the chime mechanism, activating a solenoid electromagnet which moves a steel rod. The rod strikes the metal chimes, producing the notorious doorbell "ding" or "dong" or activates a digital tone instead.
Remove the electrical tape and/or wire nut on these (hidden) second wires. (Note that only one of them is connected to the transformer, so keep the bundle together or you will have to probe each of them in the following test.) Using a voltmeter set to the lowest AC setting above 20 volts, touch one probe to the second wire bundle and the other to the wire labeled Trans you need not disconnect it from the doorbell.
If there is a reading of 10 or more volts, the transformer is OK. To make a final test of the doorbell unit, touch the second wires to the front and/or rear terminals on the doorbell unit. If there is a chime, then you have a problem in the wiring of the button(s).
If there is no power reading, you must locate the transformer and test it directly. This can be a chore sometimes you can trace the wires back to the transformer from either the doorbell unit or from one of the buttons. The transformer can be attached to the outside of an electrical box or even to the outside of your main electrical panel. You worst nightmare will be that you have a beautifully finished drywall ceiling in the basement and someone sealed the transformer underneath without leaving an access panel.
Once you locate the transformer, test it again as earlier, but directly on the two terminals. If there is still no reading, replace the transformer with the same voltage level. If there is power at the transformer but no power at the doorbell unit, you may have a broken or disconnected wire. Check all your wiring and connections to be sure there are no loose or mouse-eaten wires.
If you need to replace the transformer, be sure to have the power off to the box to which it is attached. Even though the output from the transformer is not a great shock hazard, the input to it from your homes wiring can pack a deadly punch!
Doorbell Wiring - Identifying Wires
I am revisiting this thread because I have a new problem with the doorbell.
I eventually (several months ago) swapped out the digital chime for an analog chime because my wife really didn't like the digital sound (why it matters, I don't know!). Anyway, everything was working great up until a couple of weeks ago, when it started dinging on its own, without anyone pushing a button (very creepy at 11pm at night!). I removed the cover, and its definitely the front door hammer that is dinging (even though it is only doing a "ding" when its on its own, not the "ding dong" for when the doorbell is pushed).
With the cover removed, I can even see the hammer quivering up and down. It seems like its getting some electricity to make it quiver, and then it finally gets enough to make it ding. I can ever hear an electrical buzzing while its building up, and then the sound goes away for a bit once it dings. (I'm imagining it as an electrical reservoir that fills up and buzzes until it overflows, causes the ding, and is therefore quiet for a bit - no idea if this is accurate, but that's how I'm picturing it.)
I disconnected the white wire from F and left the other two connected. When I touched the white wire to the F, it made a tiny little spark.
I contacted the doorbell company, and they suggested I try the digital power kit again (even though its intended for a digital chime). I tried it, and the doorbell does not ding on its own anymorebut it also doesn't ding (or ding dong) when the button is pushed. There is definitely electricity there because it is enough to power the doorbell itself (with its camera, etc.), but I guess its not enough to work the analog chime? I don't know.
Anyone have any suggestions? Otherwise, I think I may just tape over the ends of each of the wires, shove them inside the wall, and get a wireless Ring doorbell and wireless Ring chime!
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Doorbell wires are safe to touch and carry low voltage AC (alternating current) that will not cause hazard.
If your fingers are wet, you could get a small buzz, but nothing that will penetrate insulating effect of skin or cause harm under normal conditions.
The effect on pacemakers and other medical conditions is not known for example, don't put your tongue across both doorbell wires to test your mental condition because the test is not valid and might cause harm.
Installing new 'structural' wires?
Low voltage wires are considered 'structural wiring,' and should never be installed inside same raceway, conduit, box or enclosure as residential volt wires.
Doing so violates safe electric practice Why? Because an insulation failure in high voltage line could energize the smaller low voltage lines with dangerous levels of power, and create shock and fire hazard.
Low voltage wires (doorbells, intercom, phone, communication cables etc) are not required to be contained inside enclosure (box) or conduit.
If needed or for accessible splices and junctions low voltage lines can be installed inside ordinary electrical boxes, or open-back structural boxes, as long as NO household voltage is using same box.
Structural wiring boxes
Arlington Low voltage boxes
Split box for high and low voltage
Split box for high and low voltage 2
Divider plate for existing box
volt power lines and structural wiring can share same box if box has a divider so spark from high voltage cannot impact low voltabvge wires.
Low voltage lines do not need to be grounded, and should never be grounded to the household electrical system. However the transformer that convents volt power into volt for doorbell is required by code to be inside electrically-rated enclosure and be grounded to the electrical system. To reduce potential damage from nearby lightning strike, incoming phone lines, coax cables etc are usually grounded to a ground rod before entering home.
There is a 'junction box transformer' made for doorbell that is installed directly into a wall box that contains volt electric power.
The transformer is connected to volt using twist-on wire connectors per ordinary transformer connection the low voltage wires for doorbell are on front of transformer and not inside electrical box. The doorbell chime can be mounted to front of transformer if desired. This installation meets code because the high voltage household wires are contained inside the box and electrically separated from the low voltage wires that remain outside the box.
Junction box transformer
Junction box transformer sell sheet
Thermostat wire, bell wire, phone cable can be used for doorbell installations
Bell wire is often sold as a red-and-white two-wire bundle containing insulated solid copper wire. Bell wire is not rated for outdoor use, but can be used inside a structure, or run inside outdoor conduit.
Thermostat wire comes in 2-strand and multi-strand versions with various colors. Thermostat wire is insulated solid copper wire covered with tough plastic sheathing. Thermostat wire is durable, hard to damage, and rated for in-wall applications and for sunlight and temperature exposure ranges.
Thermostat wire is typically larger 18 gauge, bell wire is smaller 20 gauge, while phone cable is typically smaller 24 gauge. All three can be used for doorbell and other low voltage applications (structural wiring).
Solid copper is correct choice for all types of structural wiring, including doorbells. Solid copper will not come loose if twisted together tightly, or hooked around screw terminal as long as screw is tightened firmly.
Ordinary gauge lamp cord can be used for low voltage applications, but the stranded wire makes connections less reliable, especially under a screw terminal and the thick, non slippery insulation coating makes it hard to pull lamp cord through openings.
Thermostat wire, bell wire, or phone cable can be used for any volt doorbell system, but can never be used for volt applications, despite being rated for volt. The volt rating only means the low voltage wire will not melt if exposed to volt, but electrical code prohibits use of low voltage structural wires for carrying household power even if installed for short lengths or safely contained inside conduit. Incorrect and underrated wire is a safety hazard.
Typical NEC (national electrical code) requires standard volt wire and cable for volt residential wiring and commercial wiring of all voltages the volt rating can be seen on the cable sheathing, or printed on wire insulation. The code also prohibits use of extension cords and lamp cord for permanent in-wall volt wiring.
Indoor outdoor cable for doorbell/ phone etc
Phone cable for outdoors/ underground
Always best to use full length wire without splices. If running wire underground from detached structure, use conduit to avoid deterioration and damage and run a full length for reliability.
If a splice or junction is necessary inside home, do not conceal behind wall with low chance of being located later. Make connection inside structural box mounted to wall surface where access is possible.
Low voltage structural wiring can be soldered if you choose. Solder increases reliability of twisted connections, and junctions with multiple wires. Do not solder doorbell wires to transformer or to doorbell unless the screw is missing.
Contrast structural wiring where solder is permitted, household volt connections cannot be soldered adding solder to volt connections will create hazard that is against code since high heat from household amperage will melt solder, and wires can come loose.
Flux/ soldering paste
Basic doorbell system troubleshoot
Doorbell system consists of 5 things push button doorbell wires transformer and volt circuit that supplies power to transformer.
The transformer converts volt to safe low voltage.
On the doorbell, the front door and back door chimes usually connect to different terminal each giving a different ring sound. Front and back can be connected on same terminal for same sound.
Another button can be connected to same doorbell.
Fig-1/ wire color added for illustration purposes.
The transformer has 2 wires (Red and Yellow color for illustration purposes only). The transformer wires travel from transformer to the doorbell.
One wire from the transformer (red wire) connects to center terminal T.
!! Only 1 wire from transformer should connect to doorbell.
The second wire from transformer (yellow) never connects to doorbell terminal.
Note also that only 1 wire should connect to T terminal, no matter how many buttons there are.
Wires from buttons
Each button has two wires that travel from button to doorbell.
!! Only 1 wire from each button should connect to doorbell.
The front doorbell button: (Blue wire) connects to F for the front terminal.
The back doorbell button: (White wire) connects to B for the back terminal.
A third button could be added and wired into the B or F terminal, but never to T..
The second wire from each button (Yellow) connects to yellow wire from transformer.
Twist wires together and cover with wire nut®. Make all connections at doorbell, and twist wire nut® very tight.
Broan Nutone doorbell
Newhouse doorbell chime
Wire connector assortment
What usually fails?
Transformers occasionally go bad, and can be replaced. The wires connecting transformer to volt can come loose, and should be inspected if transformer is suspect.
Otherwise, transformers are reliable, have no moving parts, work with high efficiency and low heat loss, but might feel warm to touch and/or make humming sound that can get amplified if connected to wood surface. Transformer that feels hot instead of warm should be replaced.
Circuit breaker for volt circuit that powers the transformer can trip or the circuit be damaged in lightning strike, but evidence is usually more apparent than non-functioning doorbell. Push breaker fully off and then back ON. Use non-contact voltage tester where wires connect to transformer.
Buttons get corroded or wear out and are usually first suspect in a failure, and can be replaced.
Doorbells stop working for variety of reasons, mostly because the solenoid plunger get dirty or corroded, or simply wears out from cheap design.
If button is located on brick wall, and button is loose, then break-off toothpicks to fill up holes so screws can bite into something.
Remove button and momentarily spark wires together using metal screwdriver or manually rub one wire into other wire. If you see spark, then the circuit, wires and transformer are working.
If doorbell rings when wires are sparked together, then button is bad. Replace button.
If you see a spark, but doorbell doesn't ring, then doorbell is suspect.
Take cover off doorbell and inspect for loose wires. Damp location (for example doorbells installed outdoors) can lead to corroded doorbell and wire connections. Corroded wires can be cleaned with sandpaper. Install new wire nut. Corroded doorbell needs to be replaced. Remediate source of moisture.
Have someone push button while you are at doorbell with cover removed. Do you hear any sound or buzzing, or notice the solenoid plunger is trying to move?
If bell is trying to ring or making a sound, then doorbell is bad. Try a bit of cleaning and WD40 on the solenoid plunger and test again.
If spark shows at front door button, but doorbell is making no noise, then twist wires together at button.
Remove center wire off T terminal.
Use T wire to spark against F front terminal. If spark is seen, then doorbell is dead and needs to be replaced.
Broan Nutone doorbell
Newhouse doorbell chime
If you have front and back door buttons, repeat same test with other button.
If doorbell works with one door but not the other, then the button is first suspect, but the solenoid on doorbell could be bad. You can connect wire to different terminal and have front door bell ring the back chime.
If you do not get a spark by momentarily crossing button wires, then check circuit breaker, and read next section on transformers.
Basics for replacing doorbell
The new doorbell and old doorbell should be rated for same voltage usually volts AC. Mismatched voltage ratings will not work the wires and buttons will work, but doorbell voltage and transformer voltage must be same.
New doorbell will show volt rating on package
Old doorbell might show rating if not, then doorbell transformer (the source of power for the doorbell) will usually have a rating.
Locate transformer and check function and volt rating
Go into service room, attic or basement and find the transformer.
Transformers are typically hardwired (permanently attached to volt enclosure/ box) or plugged into outlet (often found with retrofitted security systems etc).
Function: To check if transformer is working, take short piece of wire and spark across both screw terminals on transformer. If no spark is visible, then transformer is bad. Push circuit breaker fully off and then back on, then test again. If still no spark, then replace transformer.
Voltage: If spark is visible: Check voltage rating on transformer.
Note following things about transformer. The voltage, the number of taps or terminals, the number and color of wires.
The volt rating is usually located between the screw terminals.
Typical transformer has 2 screw terminals. If the transformer has 3 screw terminals, then it usually offers a choice of voltages depending on which terminals are used.
If the transformer does not show a volt rating, then use inexpensive analog multimeter and test for voltage.
Install a new transformer?
If existing transformer specifies a voltage, say 16 volt, then transformer will not work with a new 24 volt doorbell.
Buy a new transformer, or different doorbell.
To change from 12 volt to 16 or 24 volt transformer, or to add another transformer, turn off power to circuit, open enclosure, detach old transformer and install new. The alligator clamp that holds transformer to enclosure needs to be very tight use hammer and screwdriver to snug it tighter. Connect black-to-black, white-to-white, ground to ground using yellow or orange wire nuts®.
In some cases, both wires are black, but one has a white stripe or some other difference, then the white stripe goes to the white Neutral wire.
If wires on back of transformer are black-black, then it doesn't matter which wire is connected to the household volt Hot-Neutral.
Junction box transformer
24 volt doorbell transformer
multi-tap transformer for volt
16 volt doorbell transformer
12 volt doorbell transformer
Be careful not to get insulation under the screw because it can stop contact and voltage will not flow you only want a short length of bare wire below the screw as seen in illustration below that shows how to hook the wire.
Always hook the wire from left to right so turning the screw pulls the wire in, rather than pushing the wire out.
Solid copper wire is best for screw terminals. If you have stranded wire, then leave a bit more bare copper below the screw, twist the strands tight like a rope, and then curl around the screw, and tighten screw very tight, making sure no stray strands come into contact with other screw or other wire just move the stray stands out of the way is all that's needed.
Types of small transformers
Most doorbells are 16 volt AC.
Typically, two wires travel from transformer to doorbell. Either wire can connect to either terminal.
If home has two doorbells or secondary use for a transformer, there might be two sets of wires connected to transformer.
Single-voltage transformer is common, and has two screw terminals. The voltage is specific and cannot be changed.
Multi-tap transformer has 3 screw terminals.
Voltage options for multi-tap are embossed into the black surface surrounding terminals.
For 24 volt, the two wires connect to bottom two screws.
For 16 volt, the two wires connect to two screws farthest to right.
For 8 volt, the two wires connect to two screws farthest to left. Unknown exactly what 8 volt AC would be used for.
24 volt doorbell transformer
multi-tap transformer for volt
16 volt transformer
Other uses for transformers
These small transformer produce VA or watts power, which is enough for doorbell system.
For larger installations such as sprinkler heads, LED pathway lights etc, a larger wattage transformer may be needed.
Small 2-pin LED bulbs require DC and not AC. Buy an LED driver for DC voltage.
Doorbells might not work with DC, I haven't tested this option.
DIY pathway lights
Rainbarrel sprinkler system
IP67 all-weather LED driver
Add another button to doorbell system
Front door and back door chimes usually connect to different terminal on doorbell, to give a different ring sound new doorbell can be connected to either terminal.
Another button, or multiple buttons can be added without changing current doorbell or transformer.
Since most doorbells offer front and back, but not a third ring tone option, then the new button has to be added to B or F terminal.
Or use wireless doorbell system for side gate advisable to check distance of operation and potential obstructions to signal that include metal and other solid objects such as brick and wood walls, trees, etc.
Keep in mind that wireless are not maintenance free, requiring battery replacement and likely system replacement from time to time to keep operational.
Hardwired doorbells, as illustrated, are permanent and much more reliable, except in power outage.
Yes it can be done.
Use 3 or 4 wire thermostat cable and add a second wire to each doorbell terminal.
Run new wire to additional doorbell and connect as shown Fig
Transformer might not have enough watts to power both doorbells.
Remove cover off doorbell and wire new doorbell temporarily using full length of wire that you expect to use.
The longer the wire, the greater the power loss.
Using full size 18 gauge thermostat wire instead of smaller phone cable will improve power capacity.
Most doorbell transformers are rated 40VA
VA means volts x amp, which is wattage or power output.
24 volt AC / 75 watt transformer
AC vs DC
Doorbell systems are rated AC (alternating current) voltage.
For some applications around the home, such as DIY LED pathway lights or under counter lights using G4 pin base and bulb can use only DC (direct current) power from a LED driver.
Higher wattage transformers typically called power supply rated for DC are used for those applications.
watt DC transformer
G4 pin base
G4 LED bulb
A wired doorbell system can be created using plug-in transformer.
Plug in transformers are for INDOOR use only.
Wire can be run along top of baseboard, or concealed behind baseboard, or door casing, or crown moulding.
Drill through wall to outside to mount button.
16 volt plug in transformer
16 volt doorbells
16 volt builder chime
Wireless doorbells are easier, but not as reliable, and consume batteries.
Wifi enabled video doorbell
Lets you see who is at door via cell phone
Expect privacy invasion while the internet uses facial recognition on your guests, and records your comings and goings
to sell to criminal organizations and governmental agencies
which have apparently merged into one smoothly operating scam.
Buy now Don't be last on your block to get surveilled.
Eventually we will wear masks, bags, do-rag, ski masks, medical masks, face socks, LED hats and reflective sunglasses to hide identity. Maybe emblazon the family crest on it for show, or replicate photo of your dog.
Video doorbell transformer
Ring video doorbell
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And doorbell white wires red
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Ass.DOORBELL part 2 WIRING DIAGRAM transformer location and info
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